BoostedBalls

I have a pressure plate that has only a couple 1/4 mile passes and a rallycross race on it. I think it's a Sach pressure plate. I'll let it go for $25, then you will just need a disk. I work in Hillsboro.

I did 93mph in the 1/4 mile in 4th gear with the diff locked. Stock cams, heads, intake and turbo. I'll bet she's good for 115 or 120mph.

Don't buy that one! They suck, the only stainless parts on it are the wire weave and some Pepsi can thin stainless inside. Not much to weld to on this kind. In retrospect, I should have just clamped it or found a better flex joint. I used a slip joint on the bigger header. Ther is about 3" of overlap and it fits tightly. When the smaller inside pipe heats up, it expands and seals the gap almost perfectly. The outer pipe is colder so less expansion. We'll see how it works out.

Does the TD04 have the same flange as the T3? I know the Garrett T4 is not the same, but I can't imagine you are installing one of those. I might have to make up a jig to make these things quicker. I don't really know what these are worth, I guess it will all come down to 1/4 mile times. I think CarFreak's headerr is gunna be much more streetable than mine, but I'm not going for streetable. The welder is a Lincoln Precision TIG 185

I got pissed and used my sawzall to remove the driver side bank and the passenger side came right out after that. I just needed the passenger side piece to locate the turbo flange relative to my engine on the stand.

Actually, that is my 2.3L HO Quad 4 sandrail. It's 10:1 compression and MPFI with 180hp 180lbs/ft with 7200 rpm redline, stock. I'm just gunna go with NOS on it, I just found out that Woodburn dragstrip will let me race it up there so it's time to build a wheelie bar! I pull wheelies in second gear in the sand when the engine hits it's powerband, feels like a dirtbike the way the power comes on.

As far as ej22t and er27, I don't have the engine or car to use for fitment. All I have is an ea82 engine and chassis. I will be making one for an ej22t but it will be for a mid engine sandrail with the turbo mounted above the transaxle, Formula 1 style...well, at least the way they were mounted until F1 banned turbochargers in 1989.

Here's the header I just finished for CarFreak85. It has 1.5" primaries and 1.75" up pipe with 4 bolt head flanges and stock IHI turbo flange in stock location. I do plan on polishing it but I need to fit it to the car to make sure it won't need any mods first. Just taking the stock pipe out was a sumnabish, I might have to jack the engine up to do it. The one above it is my 2" header with 2" primaries and 2" up pipe. I used a slip joint between the left and right bank. This is setup for a Garrett T3 mounted pretty high in the engine compartment because the Garrett is much larger and the spider intake is in the way. I think I'll also be adding a wastegate pipe to mount an external wastegate. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10365&cat=500

Let me clarify: the cold-start injector is for fuel only (this is on a carbed system and the cold-start injector is for enrichment) using one for water/alky mix will corrode the insides and it will fail. I just have the hobbs switch doing 2 things at once, that's all.

Water / alky injection is awesome, BUT you should always run it AFTER the intercooler because it condenses in the intercooler and then goes into the engine in gulps, not good. Also, injecting it into the throat of the turbocharger is bad for the blade's leading edge. You figure the blades are moving close to the speed of sound and then they slam into a small water droplet? With that said, I have done it many times on jetboat engines and I just fabbed up a turbo setup on an air-cooled Baja VW that has water injection spraying directly into the turbo. This is not a daily driver and there is no intercooler. The system is way simple and cheap: -Windshield washer bottle and pump, 12 psi water pressure. -Hobbs switch that powers cold-start injector also runs washer pump, triggers at 4psi. Good to have an LED on the dash to let you know when the pump is getting power. -Home-built brass spray nozzle (.020") designed for fan spray. You can also use a spray paint can nozzle, just make DAMN sure you don't get it sucked into the turbo. They suck really hard, I've put my hand on the opening of a turbo and it grabbed my hand from 2" away! -The $.99 bottle of windshied washer fluid works awesome and doesn't damage the engine. -Mount the bottle as low as possible, you don't want the water going in when the engine's off do you? -now feel free to up the boost and/or ignition timing! That's the best-working budget system, the high-dollar stuff does work better but you are looking at about $200 instead of maybe $40. They have high pressure pumps so you can inject directly into the throttlebody, the windshield washer pumps can't push past the boost.

Simple solution??? Make adaptor plate to mount original throttlebody on spider intake. That's what I was going to do but decided to go with a GM throttlebody with IAC valve hooked up to megasquirt.

That's not fair! What did you pay for it and are there more?

I hope not, I just put an engine back together with mismatched HLAs!

The turbo engine should crank faster than the n/a model due to lower compression. I'm not sure about the auto - manual differences, I would assume the same. Your first order of business is to replace your battery cable. Right now it is acting like a giant resister that isn't letting your starter get the full 12v therefore it won't crank very fast which means you probably have to crank longer. Which makes the matter worse, a catch 20. Once you have clean terminals and a good battery cable, I guarantee it won't heat up like it did, regardless of your starter's condition. And it should crank faster and your engine will probably start quicker. Just for s&g's you could take a voltage reading at the positive terminal of the starter while cranking and compare it to the battery POST while cranking and you could see how much voltage your cable is throwing away.

anywhere, these engines don't weigh much. I pulled one with a skinny tiedown strap attached to the power steering loob and the flywheel inspection hole.

I'm a little bit lost here, are we talking about an ea-82t engine? Are we talking about the stainless EGR tube? I know that is threaded into the head near the exhaust port. We must be talking about the non-turbo ea-82 because I don't have anything like you guys are discribing on my ea-82t. I have used the red rtv on exhaust gaskets before when I was in a pinch and it held up fine in a n/a big block chevy. It was on a jetboat with wet headers so there wasn't any exhaust backpressure, not sure how it would hold up under these conditions.

You are looking at a bad connection. You might have corroded wires where the terminal is. Bad connection=resistance=heat Your alternator is not in the equasion. You are probably cranking your engine a lot and I suspect it is barely cranking enough to get the engine started. If your starter has bad bushings it will draw more current from the battery to start the engine but the cable should be able to handle it without any problem whatsoever. It's a cheap fix to replace the cable.

Cheap thrills, what else can I say?

There is a banjo fitting on both ends. Where exactly is yours leaking? If it is leaking in a regular tubing section, there are flair splices available. These are the same for brake lines. Some fuel injection hose (not regular fuel hose) will work just fine. I would make sure to only cut it with a small tubing cutter (roller type) and don't debur it unless you have the whole thing off, small metal slivers will eat your turbo inside out. If it is leaking at the top banjo fitting- I have a replacement piece. $5 shipping is all I want for it. I use these turbos a lot on other projects and I usually use 1/4 fuel injection hose with the stock steel section banjoed to the turbo because it handles the heat.

I just read up on the heads you are talking about. Those sound like the ticket! What cam are you using?

I don't think equal lengths on these engines really do much for performance but it should flow well with 1 7/8" tubing. I don't know about the ea81 but the ea82 doesn't even have equal length exhaust ports and they are siamesed anyway. It all really depends on your cam and compression ratio. If you are running all stock, a smaller ID would probably be better to keep the heat and velocity in the header and a narrow collector, maybe 2", to help with scavenging pulses. Post a pic man!

Looks ***************en, I am planning on doing something similar with my RX. I don't like the way the bumpers stick way out like they do. I can help you with the welding. Maybe weld in a piece of angle iron where you cut the sheetmetal to stiffen it up a bit and keep the cooling effect? I'm in Cornelius, OR, near Hillsboro.

I think the best thing to do with 4EAT is to drain the fluids and attach it to a long chain and either: A. Drag down a long dirt road at high speed. B. Use it to anchor you boat in your favorite fishing spot. I have one in my 1993 legacy and it is horrable. A friend has one in his 1990 Legacy and it also sucks. The manual transmissions are top notch. I would instal one in the Legacy but the wife can't drive a manual. She can hardly drive with the auto...

I have run a couple of these engines at 20psi with no head gasket issues and I drive it like I stole it. I only use copper head gaskets on watercraft engines because the inability to seal as good as stock gaskets. I would never consider using copper on these engines after seeing how well they handle 20psi. If yours failed at 12 psi, the boost is not the issue. Timing or something else. Just remeber to keep the RPMs up when you are under boost. Higher the revvs, less detonation. Climbing a long hill at low RPM is WAY more harmfull than blasting up it in low gear with the revvs up.

Mine has been sitting on the stand for a couple months now and I'm only using two bolts to hold it in place! I've torqued the heads, bounced it around over air hoses etc in my shop and it's still hanging with no worries.