BoostedBalls

F.A.S.T. Fuel- got it Air- got that too Spark- not verified, pull them suckers and check them out. Timing, check the belts and spark too. I like to mark the belts with a white line when I install them to make it easy to tell if they have jumped a tooth.

Thanks for the nice words! I just hope the performance lives up to the complements!

Clogged air passages in the carb? I would lock the choke in the open position and see what happens.

The early Justy also came in 4wd turbo. I test drove one with a 5 speed and it smoked like crazy. It ran like crap but I still regret not buying it ($200), I would be able to rallycross my brains out with that sucker souped up. If anyone knows of a turbo Justy for sale in the Portland, Oregon area, let me know.

I'm with Hooz. The IAC valve might just be dirty or need some lubrication. I've 'fixed' this issue by spraying a bunch of STP silicone lubricant down the shaft area. It's probably just not respnding fast enough to maintain a steady idle. Before you soak it down with some silicone lube, have someone start the car and you can watch how the solenoid acts. It should move much quicker and smoother after you spray it. WD40 will work but not as good. I would give it a few treatments of this to help it clean itself. Or you might be able to take it apart and do it right.

You might try a couple of glasspacks in series. One where the cat used to be and the other where the muffler used to be. I did this on a 4cyl Porsche and it really sounded tough but not annoying. Smooth ...

DIELECTRIC GREASE-- Don't use the garbage stuff they sell at the auto part store. Use DC4 (Dow Corning #4), I used it extensively int he aviation industry on every connection that required corrosion protection and isolation from the environment. It has about the same melting temp as solder and never dries up. It is a vasoline-looking stuff that works great on everything from dist cap electrodes to battery terminals to spark plug wire caps to keep them from sticking to the ceramic part of the plug. We all know it sucks to destroy good wires when all you are trying to do is replace the spark plugs!

I didn't have to switch gas tanks on my 1986 GL-10, it had the recession for the diff.

If your oil pressure was decent and- If you weren't blowing smoke. I would probably keep the pistons in it. The cylinder walls have already been verified. With the pan off, look at the bottom of the pistons and see if there is any serious scoring on the skirts. With pistons at mid travel down the bore- have someone rock the crankshaft back and forth slightly. Stick a pencil or something down to the top of the pistons while they are rocking it and you will know if there is any slop in your rod bearings. Measure the end-play in the crank. That's the fore and aft motion. This will tell you if the thrust bearing is good or not and this will give an overall indication of how the mains look. You gotta draw the line somewhere, let your wallet and your wristwatch make up your mind. You could tear it all down, polish a good crank, align hone the case, change good bearings, hone cylinders, replace good pistons and rings, and end up with the same thing that you already have.

I'm with rallyruss on this one. DRY is best unless the directions call for sealant. Most gaskets are designed to grab the sealing surface, and sealant will only get in the way and make things slippery. Some gastes come with a spray-on sealant that is heat activated, you don't want to put extra sealant on over it. Your head gaskets are squished with many tons of force. If you have leaks, you have other problems- improper torque, dirty or oily surface, warpage, cracks or scratches. I just installed mine dry and I'll be running 20+ PSI boost (confidently). The engine should get nice and hot, I'll let you guys know how the gaskets hold up.

I've done a 2wd 1986 GL-10 to 4wd and it wasn't that hard. I know some guys shove an ea82 rear under an ea81 body. And it gives you the option of disc brakes in the rear. Just make sure the diff is the same ratio. Now might be a good time to just stick ea82 stuff under the whole thing, front and back. Parts are sure as hell easier to find.

I just ported the heads on my EA82T and I know the ports are not symetrical. Unless you are turning insane RPMs, I would remove only small amounts of material in areas that protrude into the direct flow. I grinded down the areas under the intake mounting holes. I took a course sanding wheel to just knock off the casting flash and give a smooth transition. I also matched the intake and gaskets also. The key factor to remember is that VELOCITY makes power. That mixture needs to blast into the chamber with some serious motion. Too large of port will only slow this down. Your cam needs to match your ports, you will throw away power if they don't match. I'm running stage 3 cams and I'm still on the conservative side with my porting. Seen too many people open ports up wide only to find out that their engine doesn't do crap until the RPM comes up; by then the race is already over. Usually. people do more harm than good when porting heads. A good 3 angle valve job can give you excellent results with a stock port. Rule of thumb- remove material only in the narrow areas, and only remove a small ammount if you have no flow measuring equipment.

If it's running at all with the injection- keep it. Just make sure the injectors are clean and the ecm isn't throwing any codes. The automatic is the problem. What is the purpose of the car? Is it your daily driver?

Cool setup- Also- You can run an outboard engine distributor on just about any engine. They are mostly belt-driven. Just slap on an extra cam pully to it and drive it off the timing belt. But you know that most aftermarket ignition systems can be triggered by a magnetic pickup, I see no reason to add extra weight to the engine. Takes up space too.

The stock header will greatly limit the upgraded turbo's ability to flow. I would try a better-flowing header with larger tubes before upgrading the stock turbo. You might be impressed by the stock turbo when it actually has a good flow of gases to it. Upgrade your down pipe and cat and replace the muffler with a straight-through design. Your stock turbo is in a less than ideal environment with all the additive inefficiencies surrounding it.

SCRAP, you live in Portland, I'm not too far from you! I can help you out with the carb setup. I have an autolite carb that is fresh for a turbo setup. It came from a ford 460 so we would have to jet it way down but it will work. I haven't really messed with the subaru carbs, I'm guessing there is a ton of vacuum and sensors and junk all over it??? I'm also assuming that you don't plan on smogging this thing??? There's two ways to do this, it all depends on smog testing or not. You can restrict some air passages in the carb to make it work with boost or you can leave it stock and add cold-start injectors downstream of the carb to actuate in 3-4 psi increments, the first one to come on at 1-2psi. It's not a perfect fuel metering device but you will be amazed how smooth it will pull. This summer- I took a tired 1600 VW engine and did this to it. I locked the timing at 24degrees, built a plenum box above the carb, welded a turbo flange to the header, fabricated down pipe with supertrap, added 2 injectors below the carb and installed a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and an electronic fuel pump. I have a video of this thing in action. The car wouldn't even do a burnout before but after the turbo install we could burn some serious rubber with the boost at 6-7 psi and the engine felt much larger. I can post the vid if anyone is interested. It's not subaru related but the same concepts apply. As far a gyrocopter (I wish I had one of them things). I would go with a draw-through setup. The drawthrough is way easier to setup and tune, you just don't get to use an intercooler with them. I think the air up there is plenty cool that it shouldn't be that big of an issue though. I would keep the CR as low as possible, 8:1 is very good. You could get away with a smaller battery with the lower compression also and that's a factor for aircraft.

24 deg is a good starting point for a turbo 4 banger with stock non-turbo cam profiles. I run turbo VWs with the timing LOCKED at 24 degrees and the power is more than double the stock power at 7 or 8 psi. If it were me, I would put the turbo cams back in it. After a regrind of course.

There's almost always a positive pressure in the exhaust manifold on a turbo system. This means that the oxygen content of the exhaust flowing past the 02 sensor is constant. The 02 sensor can only measure oxygen content and not flow or pressure.

The Corvair turbos can hardly be compared to our modern IHI units. The corvair turbo was a caveman in the evolution of turbochargers. Those turbos had seals that dragged heavily on the shaft that caused some pretty severe spooling delays. Modern turbocharger systems are not controlled by downstream back pressure. That is what the wastegate is for. Apples and oranges...

A 'minor' exhaust leak before or after the turbo is not going to show up on the butt dyno. It will not damage the engine or turbocharger either. The stock wastegate is sort of a 'controlled leak' and almost never seals up perfectly anyway. I good sized leak before the turbo will increase turbo lag but probably have no effect on wide open top end power as the wastegate is surely open at that time anyway. Yes- back pressure IS the devil! Your turbo will actually run better with no down pipe attached at all and the 'turbo lag' will disapear. I run mine with an open down pipe.

You might be surprized how strong it would run with a carburetor in a turbo blow-through configuration. It's cheap and fairly easy. There are some very basic mods that work well. I have more info if interested. The SPFI can get a little picky with a turbo blowing through it.

Those 'tools" suck. The best ones are the big 'c-clamp' type ones. You can use a spark plug socket and a mallet to take them apart way easier than the tool you had in the pic. Reinstalling them is another story. The socket can be modified with a slot cut out of the side so you can get some needle nose pliers in there to drop in the keepers, drop the first one in and slide it around the valve stem to make room for the second one. A drill press comes in handy if you don't mind cutting the female end off a 3/8" drive extension. It's a poor man's valve spring compressor but it works awesome. You can set the head on a balled up grease rag to hold the valve tappets on the seats. Remember- if you are pulling the valves out, don't get them mixed up. Now is a good time to lap the seats. Pulling springs with the heads on the engine can be done but it is a PITA! Most compression testers have a quick disconnect that can hook up to an air compressor to hold the valves closed. Make sure the engine doesn't turn durring this. (trans in gear and brake set) What is the reason you are taking the springs off?

It sounds like pepper in in there! A lot of people use it to stop radiator leaks. I saw on Myth Busters (awesome show) that a raw egg works to stop leaks INSTANTLY! I've had good results with the radiator flush stuff you get at the part stores. Flush it with water before using the chemical so the gravy doesn't impede the cleaning action. AND- make sure you flush it out very well with water then drain and then refull with deionized water and ethylglycol at 50/50.

Yeah, it's just a press-fit deal. I think a 1/2 npt barbed fitting would do the same thing.

Run a bunch of Seafoam through he engine for a while then change the oil and make sure the gastank has only fresh oil in it. Old gas has a tendency to buildup a nasty 'glue' on the intake valve stems and not allow the valve to close properly. Also, a can of B-12 fuel system cleaner won't hurt.