BoostedBalls

Quick note on the Air/fuel guage: Use a second 02 sensor, I hooked the meter up to mine and it threw my spark timing off 90 degrees! The engine obviously wouldn't start until I removed it. The threaded 02 bungholes (I said bungholes) are available at some muffler shops for about $5. -Chuck- Portland, Oregon

I have an 87 RX turbo also. I am running a stock engine and cams with a bunch of ad-ons to the engine. My best 1/4 mile time was 14.2 (1986 GL-10 converted to 4wd) but I was having transmission problems that wouldn't let me shift into 5th (mismatched tires in 4wd, not a good thing), I just floated the valves in 4th at 93mph. I've since changed the setup over to the RX and completely stripped/junked the GL-10. The RX only has 125k vs the 200+ on the GL-10. I've transfered most of the go-fast goodies over to the RX and I will be racing it tomorrow night at Portland intenational raceway in Oregon. Here's my setup: Stock engine, stock cams, stock clutch, stock turbo, stock everything except: * intercooler from Ford Thunderbird and home-built fiberglass scoop. Two washer pumps sprayed icewater on top or intercooler. Now the RX is setup with a home-built water-to-air intercooler instead. * BOV from Eclipse, crushed a little bit to seal at 20psi. * Gutted the A/C system * 2.25" home-built down pipe with glasspack sawed in half and the end capped, yeah noisy. * Home built intercooler to throttlebody pipe (on stock non-spider intake); * 5th injector plumbed to spray AVgas right above throttle plate. * Chevy S-10 washer fluid tank for intercooler reservoir and electric water pump from Volvo or Saab. 5/8" water lines * Home-built boost controller set at 19psi- until I get another boost guage that reads over 20psi! * Cut the hell out of the intake baffle in the fender and installed K&N filter. * Check engine light comes on above 12 psi and then goes back off! ---QUESTION- How much of a performance increase did you see from the Delta Cam regrind? I have been considering this for some time. It's only $135 and they are semi-local. Do they have a variation of regrinds or just one performance profile for the EA-82t? Also- did the reground cams require any changes to the valvetrain, adjustments? Thanks a million, I'll post my times after tomorrow night!!! -Chuck- Portland, Oregon ps: how do I post a pic of my setup on here?

I have looked into the Nissan injectors but I decided to just add a 5th and 6th injector to spray continuously at 10psi and 15psi, I'm not running 19psi just to keep it on the guage. The car runs normal until you hit 10psi and then you are buried in the seat. No engine damage as of yet and I drive it like I stole it. I know it's not the cleanest way to enrichen the mixture but it sure as hell works and is easy to setup. I'm running an ea-82t in an 87 RX. I'll post my 1/4 mile times after this weekend. how? take a cold-start injector from an older VW. Take that pesky 10-12psi fuel cutoff switch and wire it from the coil to a 10A fuse, to the cold start injector which sprays right above the throttle plate.(drill 3 holes) You can run an LED in parrallel to the injector so you know when it's open. You should still be able to pass smog and the idle is still smooth because you have stock injectors and fuel pressure. -Chuck-

Well, I was having big problems trying to get my torque converter back in the transmission after replacing the engine in my 1993 Legacy. I dicked with that thing for hours and days. I finally gave up and took it to a transmission shop, the transmission specialist couldn't get it to go on either. That made me feel like less of an idiot, but my issue still needed to be resolved. I took it to a second trans shop and same story. He did have a couple identicle trannys laying around with torque converters next to them. I grabbed one of the converters, walked up to my trans and slid it on silky smooth- first try. I guess mine was hose inside but you couldn't see anything wrong with it. I'm gunna cut that sucker open with my new plasma cutter and see what's up. -Chuck- Portland

Thanks for the reply John. That snap ring is just how you described it. I also posted this issue on another subaru legacy group and I get about the same recommendations from others. I have stood the trans on the output shaft and tried to install the torque convert that way, I was sure it would work but it didn't. I was told to remove the outer shaft and I tried but it wouldn't budge. I made a puller and welded a pipe to the outter shaft, it just pulled the weld out while the 2"x2" angle iron bent like it had 3000lbs on it. That thing is stuck! The inner shaft spins but the outter shaft is locked into place, no spin, nothing. This is really killing me, I won't even let someone else change my oil but tomorrow I'm taking the trans to the transmission shop to have them give it a shot. This is one serious engine replacement gone bad. My mechanical ego has been squashed. -Chuck-

Ok, I had trouble installing the torque converter on my wifes Legacy after an engine swap. I have heard from MANY people that these are a pain in the rump roast to instal. It goes into the trans nice and smooth except for the last 1/2" or so. I tried rocking it, spining it, beating on it. I tried pulling the oil pump shaft out, it is locked in place. I even pulled the trans out, stood it up on end and tried installing the damn torque converter that way! No luck. I tried installing the engine and tightening the bolts to force it in! It just bends the flex plate. I noticed a snap ring came loose inside the trans, I'm wondering if this has something to do with my delima. I am WIDE open for suggestions, please someone sprinkle some pixie dust on this thing or somethin'! -Chuck, pissed in Portland

I spent another hour on it today, no luck. The damn torque converter just won't go on! I tried to pull the hollow shaft out and put it in the TC like I read elsewhere, it won't come out. It spins though. Another thing- a 'c' clip was loose inside the trans. I took it out and it it was distorted pretty bad, must have done that when I tried to tighten the engine-tranny bolts up while the TC was all the way in. I'm getting so pissed! I have done a dozen chevys, etc with never a problem like this. I did read where a guy was able to get the thing in all the way by standing the transmission up on the output shaft. I don't want to pull the trans! I'll give it another 10 minutes and if the TC doesn't slide all the way in, I'm gunna yank the trans out and stand it up. This is quickly becoming a prime candidate for a car bomb!!! -Chuck- Portland.OR

wow, I should have never taken the damn thing out of the trans! What a hassle! I have to pull the pump shaft out of the trans and stick it in the converter? Weird. I'll give it a shot when the weather clears up a bit. Thanks for the replies!Lesson learned! -Chuck- Portland, OR

I'm trying to put the torque converter back into the transmission pump on my 90 Legacy with 4 sp auto. It goes in but I can't get it to the last 1/2 inch. There are two slots cut in the torque converter tube that I assume match up to tabs inside the pump. I have tried every angle I can and I'm about the whip out my BFH! That's a big _ hammer, for those of you who don't know. If anyone has some useful information on this, It may save an otherwise good torque converter from a brutal beating with the BFH. Thanks! -Chuck-

Where might one aquire some new head bolts? Any stories of reusing the old head bolts? I stay clear of the dealer when it comes to buying parts. I couldn't beieve how much Napa wanted for some engine seals! -Chuck- Portland,OR

The best turbo to use for a draw-through system is the one found on the 80's Chrysler 2.2L products. New Yorker, Datona, etc. This is a Garrett/AiResearch T3 and it has the seals you need and a nice machined area on the compressor inlet to bolt up a side draft carb. The RHB5 is not a good choice for a drawthrough, it is too small (drawthroughs need a larger compressor than a blowthrough system) and it doesn't have the right seals. It would blow smoke all over the place. You could put a small throttlebody downstream of the compressor that uses the same linkage as your throttle on the carb, and this will solve the smoking problem. This technique will allow you to use any turbo in a drawthrough setup. You still can't use a BOV in this system, making your turbo lag a problem between shifts. I have an air-cooled VW that uses a stock single barrel carb and an RHB5 in a blow-through setup. It works VERY well. Let me know if you want specifics.

I would replace the head because the weld would be a different material than the cast aluminum, thus a different expansion rate. It's in the exhaust port on a turbo motor, it will probably crack again. The only time I weld a head is to replace corroded head gasket water passages and to add extra material in areas that get ported beyond the outside of the casting. It's not worth your time and money to weld the exhaust port just to take it back apart and buy a replacement head anyway. -Chuck-

You can get them a lot cheaper elsewhere. I paid $100 for my 87 RX with 125k. Get a plane ticket and drive it home. I did that for a car in Seattle when I lived in San Diego. -Chuck-

the telescoping magnet should work. If not, take a small hole saw and cut a new "inspection hole" in the bottom of the bell housing. Should be easy to get at that way. Use a rubber stopper to plug the hole or some aluminum tape to cover it. -Chuck-

PISTON SLAP IN 98 2.5L ENGINES I don't have official wording on this, but the problem and solution are as follows: A redesign of the piston "skirt" (the metal ring that sits above the piston head and surrounds the piston shaft) to lighten weight and improve performance has left the skirt too short and the piston may travel excessively from side to side, especially when cold. The symptoms include a ringing/tapping sound that doesn't go away completely when the engine is warmed up, and gets worse with age. The solution is to replace the entire short block (most of the engine) and pistons with redesigned ones. If you can convince the dealer that this is your problem, they're usually pretty easy about doing the work. http://www.toad.net/~rrubel/bulletin.html

The engine was banging pretty hard as I limped it into the driveway. The oil leak on the front main was toast and oil-soaked the timing belt which was old anyway. The cams jumped time and the car wouldn't stay running unless I gave it a lot of gas, full throttle to up the driveway. I plan on installing new bearings and seals and doing a swap into my 1967 Baja Bug where it will be setup with dual webbers and stainless header. I have another engine from a wrecked legacy to drop right in. Where is the best place to get bearings and seals for this thing? -Chuck- Portland, OR

Damn, should have checked the oil before I went practicing my slides for ralley season! I drained the oil to find shiny red metal pieces, I hear that's bad. I was able to find a wrecked EJ-22 to drop in it's place. I knew it leaked oil but I had no idea it was down to a single quart! The driveway only had a few drops on it. It also jumped time on my way home because the timing belt was oil soaked. -Chuck- Portland, OR with his head up his rump roast...

Who is in the right mindset enough to crtisize the handling of a car going from dirt to tarmac at 50mph after waking up 1 second prior? ANSWER: NOBODY!

Ok, I changed the oil after running a qt of ATF in it and draining it out. The engine was way low on oil, didn't register on the dipstick even after the qt of ATF! I'm fearing that I lost a bearing. I was doing some serious sliding around the corners at full throttle right before this happened. It's still tapping, sounds very metallic but not sheet-metalish. With a screwdriver handle in my ear I can hear the most noise on the driver side. This problem happened all of a sudden so I'm leaning away from the oil pump, but I'm not leaving it out of the equasion just yet. Next is a compression test and possibly a JY engine. I'm getting an EJ-22 for my Baja bug soon anyway... Thanks for the replys, I'll be checking this all day so keep em' comming! Thanks! -Chuck- Portland, OR

I was driving my wife's 1990 Legacy yesturday with a blatant disregard for traffic law and wellbeing of automibile. I was using the gas pedal like a tiggle swich, rather than a variable control device. Anyway, the car has 175k on the ticker, we got it at 160k and I have never changed the timing belts. It developed a pretty heavy duty ticking at 3000 rpm and above. It sounds like valve train to me, I can't tell if it's coming from the left or right bank, maybe center. I only messed with it for a few minutes. The car still has good power but pulses between 500-800 rpm at idle. It doesn't seem to be a head gasket because it is RPM related and not compression related. I'm thinking it must be timing belt slipped one tooth and the valves are contacting pistons when the lifters pump up and open the valve all the way. I'm glad the valves are horizontal so maybe there won't be any bent valves, fingers crossed... Looks like I'll be pulling the timing covers off today to see if everything is lined up. My question is, assuming the noise is a valve smacking a piston due to belt slippage and valves are bent, what is the easiest way to replace a head on this thing? Should I pull the engine or can it be done properly with the engine in the car? Maybe unbolt an engine mount and lift that one side up? I'm thinking that it could also be a broken spring, but I'm leaning more to timing belt because the noise is pretty constant whereas a broken sping is a vey erratic sound that I would also hear at idle. Any and all feedback is greatly appriciated! Chuck- Portland, OR

I used a blaster 2 coil in my 14.2 @93mph GL-10 last year. I did a lot of mods at the same time so I don't know how much of a difference the coil made. -Chuck- Oregon

This is a stock replacement IHI RHB5 turbo with good fins and no cracks. I can send you pics of it. I'm asking $135 plus shipping. If it doesn't sell, I'll put it on ebay. Please email moronmechanic@yahoo.com

Vice grips! maybe a little WD40 will make then come right out.

Go with the GM 1 wire. It's an easy mod and WAY cheaper replacements! Also more amps! Rebuild kits are available too, cheap! -Chuck-

Yes, very normal to have it glowing. Headers glowing on a N/A engine would mean real bad news but for the turbo, especially the stock turbo, red hot is fine. Just let that puppy idle a bit before killing the ignition. 12 psi is about the upper limit for a stock fuel system and will go lean much over that. I had awesome results over 19psi with a 5th injector for enrichment over 12 psi. Very easy to hook up and tune, gotta get an air/fuel meter though. My little scoob did 14.2 in the quarter with no internal engine mods. -Chuck-