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HELP! Over heating Loyale (need to get back to college)


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22 replies to this topic

#1 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:36 AM

Ok, so here is the story, I have a 92 Loyale. It runs, gets hot loses oil pressure and dies, takes it about 20 minutes of 50-60 mph. Where do i start. I put in a new t-stat, seemed to help for a minure but then nothing, just got hot. Any advice would be awesome

#2 kingbobdole

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:39 AM

whered you get the tstat?

#3 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:40 AM

At car quest, just the stock 195 or whatever it is

#4 kingbobdole

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:44 AM

it may be a crappy tstat.. its OEM FTW on that part, try pulling the tstat out ( do you really need heat right away this time of year?) and get a new rad cap and see if it still overheats... if it does you either need a radiator, have a blockage or need HGs.

#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:45 AM

Losses oil pressure and dies?!?! That's not normal at all. If it got that hot, the engine has almost certainly blown a head gasket. Do a compression test, and check for oil/water mixing. And a pressure test would be a good idea as well to see where you are losing pressure. A bad radiator could have started this whole mess - they often do.

GD

#6 kingbobdole

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:47 AM

I've seen these cars get so hot to the point where they vapor lock... then the motor stalls... and the oil can boil too.... its a head unfriendly experance:-\

#7 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:48 AM

thanks guys, i will chekc the radiator out and get some new HG's. How hard is it to do the new gaskets?

#8 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:50 AM

Boile huh? Well i stopped before that happend, luckily it sounds. I grew up in a polaris snowmobile shop. I understand 2-stroke fuji motors, this is all new to me though.

#9 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:56 AM

BTW any chances of the water pump going, and if so how hard is it to pull?

#10 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:57 AM

Head Gaskets are generally about a 4 - 8 hour job depending on skill level and how many times you have done it (and how many problems you run into) - not including machine shop time if the heads need to be milled (likely they are warped if it's been that hot). I would definately make sure you are on the right track before you dive into those, but it's very common with the EA82 when it's been overheated.

GD

#11 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 02:59 AM

BTW any chances of the water pump going, and if so how hard is it to pull?


No - not unless it's leaking so bad that you have a puddle under the car. When they fail (there's only one moving part) the bearings go out and they leak like crazy. There is no failure mode for the water pump where it's "effectiveness" is reduced. It either works or does not.

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#12 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 03:00 AM

Head Gaskets are generally about a 4 - 8 hour job depending on skill level and how many times you have done it (and how many problems you run into) - not including machine shop time if the heads need to be milled (likely they are warped if it's been that hot). I would definately make sure you are on the right track before you dive into those, but it's very common with the EA82 when it's been overheated.

GD




Sounds like an adventure if nothing else. Any other good threads on this?

#13 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 03:00 AM

Tons - just pull up a search for "EA82 Head Gasket" and you'll get a lot of reading material.

GD

#14 daeron

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 03:30 AM

i havent done any mainline motor work on the soob yet, but if you "grew up in a polaris shop" and understand the two strokes in and out... this car SHOULDN't pose too much difficulty for you. the motor was extremely well designed, and its been discussed recently that while its not impossible to do the head gaskets with the motor in the car, it might be easy to avoid a full engine yank by unbolting the motor mounts and lacking the engine up....

yah it sounds obvious, but there was a recent thread where i believe it was NorthWet mentioned it.. and he is a seasoned Soober... and the general response was essentially, "gee. thats a great idea, that took NO mental exertion.. but WE ALL missed it!" so i figured id mention the idea to you so you caught it, its easy to miss any particular thread in the background noise while doing a search..

Good luck, try also doing a search for FSM or Factory Service manual... someone around here has a significant chunk of an 89 loyale FSM in PDF format, and it does contain the entire engine section, so the procedure is mapped out in that. the USRM (look at the top right corner of the screen) and a book called How To Keep Your Subaru Alive (HTKYSA) are also excellent resources.

I hate to just be the one saying "do a search..." but i dont have any links handy, and i know the threads ive mentioned have been FAIRLY recent, so it shouldnt be too difficult. Let us know how it turns out, and have fun this semester (when you make it back:eek: )

#15 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:10 PM

So I am pretty sure that my heads are tosted, is it hard to find new heads? Am i better off just getting a remanufactured from CCR?

#16 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:12 PM

Pretty easy really - what is wrong with your heads? If they just need to be milled flat, then it's not terribly expensive - I usually pay about $35 per head for milling.

GD

#17 nikgurn

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:17 PM

thanks again. Yeah i think that they will need to be milled flat, i cant see where they are cracked, but who knows. Will I need a full top end gasket kit to have tehm milled?

#18 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:22 PM

If you can just see small cracks between the intake and exhaust valves that's OK - subaru actually put out a service bulletin about those - only worry if the crack extends into the exhaust passage and are leaking coolant (not likely on anything but the Turbo engines). General rule is if you can't get your thumbnail IN the crack, don't bother fixing it. It will just come back anyway.

You can get by with just the head gasket - Fel-Pro all the way, don't have to retorque them - the cam carrier oil passage o-ring, and the manifold gaskets. Get those last two from the dealer - they are only a few dollars.

GD

#19 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:24 PM

Heads are probably not cracked - usually the head gasket itself blows out into one of the adjacent coolant passages, and causes the overheating. Cracked N/A heads are very rare.

GD

#20 kingbobdole

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Posted 20 August 2006 - 11:10 AM

Just a note. I've done lots of HGs with the motor in the car... its a cake job if you have racheting wrenches... once you get the cam carriers off, you have TONS of room.:banana:

#21 nikgurn

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Posted 20 August 2006 - 01:03 PM

Yeah, I pulled the heads with out the ratcheting wrenches, took me a little under three hours. We do have an air ratchet and i was able to get it on most the bolts with a extra shallow socket, and zip them out. I took my sweet old time though cause i wanted to make sure that i knew how it goes back together. I dont see any cracks. To bad nobody around here carries the gaskets, so it looks like i am taking my brothers 79 cougar to school while i wait for them to show up, and then make a trip back to finish the car over labor day weekend.

Cougar=cool car, horrific mileage (it has the cleveland motor, it is nice to be able to cruise over any pass and hold 80mph, and rock honda civics' world.)

#22 nikgurn

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 01:31 PM

Talked to my dad today, he took the radiator over to the local radiator shop to have it checked out, 99% blocked...go figure. Any way I htink that I am going to got with a new all metal one that they offer as a replacement. 40-45 bucks, heard anything bad on those?

also i was looking at going to a higher volt coil and widening my plugs gap a little more, I have heard this makes the car more efficient. Is that a myth?

Anything I should do preventative on it while everything is in pieces?

#23 daeron

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 02:20 AM

water pump, maybe oil pump seals to keep the tick of death at bay, timing belts, rear main, front main, camshaft seals.... oilpan gasket?

sorry. but the answer to your last question, would be all of those gaskets that GD just said you could get away with not doing. they lifters are hydraulic, i dont know if there is any sort of bench service that can be done to them?? while you have the heads off.. and the oilpump was a suggestion "since you're there"

if you elect to do a water pump, dont scrimp. make sure that the silly pipe and hose apparatus that is the outlet (i think?) for the pump is properly sealed and in good shape.. i dont know if any of these aluminum pieces have started to ossify and destryo themselves on the subes yet, but i know mine looked like many a datsun coolant piece that LOOKED okay until disassembly.. and then crumbled... but many have looked the same and been perfectly fine, smack em with a rubber mallet and they dont break.. But make sure everything looks good. you are already doing the difficult bit, and if you arent going to do any head modding, or port matching type work, thats about it.

as for your ignition ??s, i dont know. im not that enlightened yet. enjoy the cleveland, its nice to play with what our parents grew up with once in a while, before its forgotten.. because i think at 3 bucks a gallon and rising, the time of those vehicles is not much longer.. even as eccentrics... its going to take wealth to drive a car like that much sooner than i think most of us would like.




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