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Shopping/to-do list for pulled EJ22 ?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 wondercow2

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Posted 10 October 2006 - 03:57 PM

I'm starting to plan for a clutch replacement this December in my 98 Legacy. I figure the easiest thing to do is just pull the engine and do everything that way. I know about the rear oil seals, but are there other must-do things that I should with the engine out? The timing belt is less than 5k old, though I didn't replace the water pump or reseal the oil pump at the time. I do have some oil (maybe power steering?) leakage around the top of the motor, but it's not clear where it's coming from, and it's minor enough that there's no noticable oil loss, and no oil coming down from the timing cover area. I know I should do the crank seal, but I really don't want to mess with taking the timing belt off and whatnot if it's not necessary.

The car and motor have about 130k miles on them at the moment.

#2 grossgary

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Posted 10 October 2006 - 04:23 PM

i forget the years and models, but if you have a plastic rear separator plate, install a metal one while the engine is out. get a clutch kit - new clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearings.

i'd be mostly concerned about the water pump. the oil pump and seals could wait. i would replace them but if you keep an eye on the oil and fill it up if it starts getting low, then you can wait and do them the next timing belt change. the front crank seal is integrated in the oil pump, so it's actually easy to replace with the motor in the car unlike the older subaru's. just keep an eye on the oil and make sure no leaks develop or get worse.

i think this is a 60,000 mile interval timing belt. so you're looking at 180,000 or more before the next replacement. you're asking the stock water pump to make it 180,000 miles. it can make it, but plenty stock pumps fail well before then as well. the water pump isn't that hard to install....it's kind of chump change compared to pulling a motor. you can sustain oil leaks, but coolant isn't really a consumable item, if you start loosing it that's a very bad thing.

i'd do everything now, but what i'll recommend to you and feel confident about is to do the water pump, thermostat and hoses/clamps now and then at the next timing belt do all your seals and replace most of the timing belt pulleys unless they are really good and tight.

#3 wondercow2

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 10:39 AM

What's the part # for the oil seperator? I can't find it in the online catalogs.

Also, is a throwout bearing a "release" bearing? I think the pilot bearing usually comes with the clutch kits, but I'm having issues finding a throwout bearing part #.

#4 Virrdog

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 11:15 AM

A new tranny mount can do wonders for the car if you have a 5 speed. And you might as well take a look at your engine mounts when you pull the engine and see if those need to be replaced, too.

#5 wondercow2

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 06:38 PM

A new tranny mount can do wonders for the car if you have a 5 speed. And you might as well take a look at your engine mounts when you pull the engine and see if those need to be replaced, too.

I think I do need a new tranny mount- http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=58619

Is this the kind of mount I'm looking for? http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWD1V

(I don't need a group N one obviously, but I haven't been able to see that mount from underneath the car before so I'm not sure what to get. The motor mounts and pitch stopper all look pretty solid).

#6 Suzam

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 06:57 PM

The oil separator number that I have is 11831AA150 but I'm not sure if it's for the metal one. The number supercides another so I think it is.

#7 970subaru

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 08:34 PM

id rather pull a trans then a motor myself.
oil seperator plate-is that the plate on the back of the block? Ive heard good things about the metal ones, a guy that works at CCR recomended them to me.
here's my thoughts-if it aint broke dont fix it. fix the stuff only if it actually leaks. check the tolerances of the water and oil pumps with the factory specs. my 158k ej22 was within spec on both pumps, so why replace parts that are within spec right?. replace the oil pump o-ring on principle.

#8 wondercow2

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 09:03 PM

id rather pull a trans then a motor myself.


Well, is it any easier to drop the trans than it is to pull the engine when working in a garage with just a floor jack and jackstands? From what I gather it's almost as much work as just removing the engine, and makes putting the new clutch on a real pain.

#9 Skip

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 07:35 AM

Just a couple of pointers from recently "yankin' a 2.5 lump"

You may want to loosen the crankbolt after removing the rad.
A chain wrench is handy if the clutch is slipping or you can
use the kamikasi (sp?) starter technique.

Remove the charcoal canister bracket, the cam cover hits it on the way out.
(I read every post I could find before I yanked mine and never saw this mentioned. It was kind of tuff getting it off with the cam cover in the way.)

Be sure to get a pilot shaft alignment tool to center the clutch disc in the pressure plate (many "clutch kits" come with one.

Hope this helps


#10 Virrdog

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 08:57 AM

I think I do need a new tranny mount- http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=58619

Is this the kind of mount I'm looking for? http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWD1V

(I don't need a group N one obviously, but I haven't been able to see that mount from underneath the car before so I'm not sure what to get. The motor mounts and pitch stopper all look pretty solid).

Nothing wrong with Group N ;) (I have those engine & tranny mounts)

But yeah, that's what the 5 speed tranny mount looks like.

#11 970subaru

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Posted 22 October 2006 - 07:07 PM

Well, is it any easier to drop the trans than it is to pull the engine when working in a garage with just a floor jack and jackstands? From what I gather it's almost as much work as just removing the engine, and makes putting the new clutch on a real pain.

yeah, just get the car about 2' off the ground so you have some space underneath, build a trans cradle out of wood and bolt it to your floor jack, voila instant trans jack. ive pulled and installed trans by myself with this contraption, just take your time and be careful.
though with a chain and piece of pipe 2 people can pull a light engine such as a subaru.




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