970subaru

Hi bill, I'm In awe of your work and just wanted to ask you a few questions if you don't mind. there are too few with your skills around anymore. you are doing the buckeye state proud keeping manufacturing alive, a true AMERICAN. 1. What was your education/career path to allow you to establish such a high level of skill in so many trades? you seem to be a tool and die machinist, fabricator, engineer, mechanic, and sculptor wrapped into one. 2. have you considered,(or do use) CAD/CAM technology for what you are doing with bellhousings? 3. how do you indicate a complicated rough casting such as a bellhousing for a first cut? 4. how did you calculate/measure for your allowed 1% shrinkage in your casting form, or how did you establish a register for those measurements if that question makes sense? radially from center of crank? 5. how can I learn to do what you do, or find a similar occupation? Currently I am a custom architectural metalwork fabricator but am bored with railings and stairs and interested in getting into more of a custom machining, prototyping sort of career. have no formal training except my desire to learn. thanks for your time, Jeremy

i use a breaker bar and a degree wheel for the last part. the more leverage gives you greater control and less wear and tear on your torque wrench.

somewhat unrelated(but not really) and i only have this because I am a backcountry skier, but if you get a fishing license its an extra $.25 to support search and rescue which waives the >$1,000 fee you may incur by requiring a rescue effort. some stuff that is more applicable to winter that is coming MAPP gas or propane torch for trying to get a fire started in the wet & cold(plus many other uses) butane crack torch might suffice but they always break small razor sharp hatchet a couple types of gloves-good quality waterproof ski gloves, plus mechanix or similar with some dexterity. you dont want to have to do stuff in wet and cold with bare hands. enough food for 3 days longer than you plan to be out even if its some ramen or powerbars or something a plan with folks back home where exactly you are going and when you plan to be back and when they should start to worry nice LED headlamp with extra batteries is critical IMHO

that is too bad, you were doing some ground breaking stuff. that engine is awesome but probably weighs more than even a gassed up KLR. doesnt mean you cant do something 2 wheeled with it, but it will be a WIDE HEAVY FAST street bike you wouldnt want on anything rougher than a gravel road. i wonder if a baker 6sp would hold up to the vw motor. or for your 4x4 you could always stick it in some sort of suzuki since there are adapters made.

really cool rail, how much travel? a wrx turbo would come on very low(off idle?) and fall off low too. way too small for your app. IMHO. that turbo is for a 2.0L and 227bhp at like 11psi. it would be blowing really hot air on the EG. two TD04's would be good. get a bigger single turbo like a holset HX35 and methanol/water injection kit then maybe 12-15 psi. chemical cooling=no need for intercooler. with 10-1 and boost that thing is going to rip. also for low boost an eaton M90 supercharger off a ford 3.8 supercoupe would be a good fit for the 3.3L and they are cheap to buy you just have to be able to do your own setup.

depends on your standards, if youre used to sports cars you might not like it but if you are used to lifted trucks with worn out steering you'd probably love it:lol:

couldnt you just move it up and back a bit with custom mounts and/or clearance the pan?

take it to a shop with a exhaust sniffer and have them sniff the coolant res while the car is running.

paid $800 for a black 98 impreza coupe 2.2 5sp awd with a few issues but pretty solid overall. it had been a teenager car from the mountains. it was on craigslist, somehow the seller called me first. a car like that is pretty sought after around here.

hey why not get some ej22t stock pistons, not like they go for a lot of money. or since youre running EM get some ej25 heads and run the 22e block. sorry if i missed it but what are you using for the AWIC pump and radiator? i think i saw some people use a air conditioning condenser. very big and stock fitment. cool build.

yep did a bit more reading and found that out. awesome freakin design subaru. going to pull one from a dudes parts car in the dark tonight.

my front U joint at the trans output has a large amount of play that is causing a bad vibration at highway speeds. any tips and tricks for replacing this U joint? I have never done one before nor really even heard of one wearing out on a subaru.

i was looking into this a while back, i was going to try and find some longer strut inserts then put some long coilover springs on them. couldnt find anything that was much longer than an outback insert. some later pathfinders have struts in front but i couldnt find inserts and dont know how much travel they had. maybe a regular shock could be used inside a strut like an insert. dunno if it would be strong enough in bending. it would be pretty simple to built a little adapter from the shock eye bushing to the strut top though. if you could get ahold of somebody at koni or bilstein or some company that makes strut inserts, they could probably tell you what was the longest one they make that would fit.

maybe consider running coilover coils. lighter, narrower(packaging), and available in just about any rate and length you could want. jeep coils are going to be pretty stiff for a vehicle that light. even the 2.5 jeep motor is way heavier than an EA plus they are a heavier vehicle to begin with. check these out, plenty of rates available. also swayaway, eibach, probably a few others. http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=ct_coil-over-14 wider, longer http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=ct_springs-2-rear airshocks would be bad rump roast but expensive and a pain to tune. got any more pics of the front link setup? and are you going to run a panhard? also have you thought about what the rig might weigh when you are done? looks like it will be right around 2700 maybe a bit less. and freakin SAWEEET build!!

yeah, makes sense. i read about the efie and it sounds like a pretty crappy way to do things. Isn't megasquirt capable of loading multiple maps? seems like a waste to install megasquirt and not run it all the time plus switching between two different ecu's sounds like a lot of unnecessary complication. how are you planning on triggering the megasquirt ignition, a edis setup or has someone decoded the 7 tooth subaru crank trigger yet?

i read about 40 pages into the pdf that was posted earlier and it's been a great eye opener to something i previously viewed as another electric supercharger. i had tried to look into this technology a few months ago but could only find sites of people selling kits which look really electric superchargerish. what is generally considered about the limit for size of electrolysers that can be run in a passenger car with a standard charging system and a single battery and what kind of gains are they seeing? gravityman do you think that the ej22e ecu would benefit from hydrogen just plumbed into the intake in stock form or would the ecu get confused and add fuel as the PDF suggests?

after a fresh start, some improvements to the jack setup, greasing the pilot stub, and loosening the pressure plate bolts we were able to get it to mesh in about 10 minutes. thanks for the input guys, it really helped out.

after a rear main seal replacement, I am having quite a bit of trouble getting the transmission and engine to jive. the clutch plate was installed with a centering tool so that is not the problem. I can get the input shaft into the clutch disc but not the pilot bearing. we are doing this with a floor jack and ratchet straps and two people. Ive done EJ transmissions several times and never had problems like this; it is a very similar setup. we are using both lower studs and some very long M10 bolts through the top as guides. I think next try will be no studs at all to get the pilot bearing situated. if that doesn't work we will probably go to one lower stud. any tips for success or ideas about what we may be doing wrong? Stuff like how many studs to use, what to do first, etc. we fought this thing for ~5 hours tonight and will be back at it on sunday.

something along the lines of this thing would be my first choice of coupled EJ's or EG's. would be pretty cool and imagine what that would sound like.

if the width wasnt an issue they might fit pretty nicely into a datsun 240z and run a welded center diff 5mt.

nice car, an independent subaru shop in ft. collins is hiring right now 21/hr I believe. I'm going to apply just for the hell of it.

it is done all the time on the tractor pulling things with crazy blown nitro v8's and used to be done with dragsters. it is a cool idea, just tough to implement in something streetable. i would so help you if we werent 2000 miles apart.

did you read the big thread? if not do so then ask questions.

just wait, they are out there. those legacies are 90-94, imprezas are 93-01, impreza brightons(strippo) they stopped making some time in the late 90's. oh, I wouldnt be too concerned with drum brakes on a rallycross car. for EJ cars(5 lug, EJ engines, 1990+) $1000 is going to get you an ok legacy that might need a little work or have rust or damage maybe. if you see an impreza for under a grand you better jump on it, stat, unless its fwd(though you can swap those to awd, lots of work and parts). the 5mt swap can also be done, I did it on my legacy and it is not super hard just time consuming due to so many little parts to change but you would do well to have a parts car.

absolute cheapest would be a ej18 since you can pick em up for free a lot of times but you might be better off to get a legacy parts car since you will need a lot of wiring and engine related things. you can find em for around $400 all the time. all the ej motors are the same regardless of trans.