970subaru

wrong. not only are DOHC ej25 heads the same castings as ej20k/h JDM heads, they are far better than usdm wrx. they really are some of the best flowing heads subaru has made, and at 260 cfm intake outflow stock LS1 and several aftermarket aluminum V8 heads as well at a pitiful .345" valve lift intake. ported and with a more decent lift, I'd imagine mid 300's cfms would be possible. people have made close to 500whp with non ported ej25 heads and some special cams. porting is pointless for a turbo build however.

I run an all phase 1 2.2/2.5, Ive calculated it to be 10.8:1 with DOHC gaskets. good motor and it should fhaul balls in an ea.

I'd like to see a naturally aspirated subaru based engine that makes the kind of torque even a poorly running big block does.the whole pushrod vs ohc jap vs american argument is so stupid. they both serve their purpose and are pretty damn cool in their own ways.

if you go with heims get some nicer ones with either a teflon liner or a zerk and keep them clean, because if they get grimy and you neglect them they get clapped out very fast. you might consider making some rubber boots for them out of bicycle inner tube. I made some swaybar endlinks that used the cheapest type of heims and after a few winter months of road grime and mud they were rattling like crazy. all in all, heims will never be as durable in muddy conditions as a rubber bushing will and will be a lot less forgiving to the rest of the suspension and the car. but as you say suspension friction will be cut way down. where to get heims, www.stockcarproducts.com has a huge selection of sizes that would be a good match for a subaru. I'd say go to the next size up from what the stock hardware at that joint is. 3/4" seems like a good one. SAE sizes are MUCH cheaper than anything metric. johnny joints are an even better option because they are rebuildable but you would have to do a steel control arm and weld the shells to it.

12" shackle seems crazy long, maybe you could cut the front crossmember/spring hanger off a yota frame and weld it in there or just fab one like the toyota SAS people do. I think what he meant by reversing the shackle is to put them at the back of the spring instead of the front, there are pros and cons to both setups.

put it in gear, spin the stubs once and count the # of times the rear output spins? or if 4th is 1.00:1 you can count the input shaft on the trans.

uhhhh T3's arent what you'd call huge, and there are different types of TT setups that eg33 one being parallel.

http://www.msefi.com search "subaru" I'm going to do one eventually and just do EDIS ignition rather than screw with subaru's wacky crank trigger wheel. dunno if its really worth doing on an NA engine that will run just fine on a stock subaru ecu, but it looks like a lot of fun to work with. I agree that converting a wrx trans to cable seems like too much ghetto rigging. would be easier and better to just put a clutch master cyl on the clutch pedal somehow or adapt a EJ hydraulic clutch pedal cluster. then again there are legacy 4.11 transmissions which are what, $100-300 at the junkyard, come already setup for cable(and hill holder!), and can take punishment(not senseless abuse). jdm trans are a lot more $$ usually.

either or, just run one of them and keep the other as a spare.

cut it at the pin. same thing. "pin" simply means the particular spot on the plug.

Subaru does use different ECU's between the MT & AT equipped cars, however there is a MT/AT identifier pin on the ECU's and you can use a AT computer in an MT car. This pin tells the ECU whether the car has a manual or automatic transmission. The pin can be found at pin 20 on the ECU's B49 connector. The factory manuals state that for AT's the MT/AT pin should read 0v, and the MT's should read 5v. The ECU has a reference voltage that it sends to this pin. If the pin is grounded the voltage will read 0v. That pin is grounded on the automatics. All you have to do is snip the wire going to the MT/AT pin, and the ECU now knows the car has a manual transmission. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page3.jpg good luck with your swap

that seller "jhot" on ebay has some earlier TT engine sets for a bit cheaper, might be worth a look. I was reading their feedbacks and they seem to really be an honest company. I mean in one description they were noting that a CV boot was torn... 4.11 lsd conversion http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Subaru-Legacy-BG5-Wagon-Rear-LSD-Conversion_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQihZ001QQitemZ110070008197 ej20h tt/mt set http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Subaru-Legacy-BG5-EJ20H-M-T-AWD-Engine-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ001QQitemZ110070374680 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Subaru-Legacy-BG5-Wagon-EJ20-EJ20H-M-T-Engine-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ001QQitemZ110070474429 teh cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Subaru-Legacy-EJ20H-M-T-Twin-Turbo-2-0L-Engine-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ001QQitemZ110071068861

sorry I never replied, must have missed this...those on ebay seem to be a really good deal to me. ej20k single turbo will sometimes be a TD05 16g and you know how badass those are. as far as the rear diff, you can find R160's real cheap in whatever ratio you want. here in the fort there are at least 5 4.11 diffs in the yard and a couple 3.9's elsewhere. those engine/trans sets have most of the stuff you need to make the motor run-engine/trans, wiring harness, ecu, and maf/airbox. if I was in the market I would be getting one of those, its just a really good price on a bunch of parts. then again, you will not have things like the clutch master cyl, and possibly more screwed up and/or damaged than a whole front cut. you given any thought to just going with megasquirt? it does tack on another $300 or so, but power is huge and megasquirt has a lot of support on their forum if you think you could do it. wiring a megasquirt would be easier than an ej20k ecu I bet... but maybe you already bought matts motor? if so definitely go with a legacy 4.11 cable clutch trans there are a bunch down here.

#2 does look better, more like a true "tri-y." that is in fact a factory piece? Ive never seen one like it. then again we never got ej20 NA's... with a regular ej22, you might consider going with 2.25 as 2.5" could be a little overkill.

wow, is this true? EJ20G swappers would love to have them.

would the ej exhaust fit between the framerails? you could do something like a ej22-welded center diff 5mt-samurai case. or even a 4eat with the duty solenoid C locked. the EJ will almost certainly save some weight over the willys motor.

the head which had cam sprocket damage may or may not be fubar. a compression test would check this. also if you plan to use them I would magnaflux. in any case, the heads are still worth a little money unless cracked, and the bottom end a couple hundred as its good im sure.

yeah, imagine if a differential were to suddenly have differential action!! the horror!

hey if you want a hand I'd like to get in on one of these swaps. I know EJ stuff pretty well and am a decent fabricator. let me know once you are ready to roll... check this smokin good deal: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Subaru-Impreza-GC8-EJ20G-Engine-Transmission-M-T_W0QQitemZ110064755558QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or get that one from matt monson, plus a 4.11 legacy cable trans(cheap and strong), and Ill tell you about an idea for a turbo that I have.

any ideas? I was wanting to do this and figured there has to be some sort of insert that is longer, or maybe a 10" travel truck shock that is strong enough to take the side loads of a strut and could be rigged into a set of strut bodies.

yeah soap is great for lots of stuff because it washes off easily leaving noo residue. Ive used it for stuff like installing window seals, putting on tight hoses, etc

go buy a saturn and take up stamp collecting then.

that has been done with legacy y-pipe but with the impreza header you can make one that bolts on. also you can notch the NA crossmember to imitate the depression in the turbo crossmember. never seen it done, but Im sure it has.

what do you plan on doing for spring mounts, ie are you going to make a full frame, subframes, or just add some plate in places?

theres a guy from NZ on legacycentral who has a ej20g in his jet boat, apparently uses the stock AWIC with river water.