970subaru

CIS plus turbo plus 10:1=

regarding legacy springs, if they will even fit in the struts... Springs: ..........................................Front............................Rear .....................................rate........drop.............rate.........drop legacy wagon.................123..........0"...............179...........0" legacy wagon awd..........134..........0"...............190...........0" legacy sedan..................123..........0"...............129...........0" legacy sedan awd...........132..........0"...............132...........0" legacy turbo W...............134..........0"...............190...........0" legacy turbo S................132..........0"...............132...........0" Whiteline wagon...........................176..........1"...............131-218 progressive (pg)...1.5" The following require different front spring seats. impreza base S.............softer front springs impreza base W............softer front springs impreza 2.5 RS S..........157.............1"............ 149........1" 2002 2.5RS (MT/AT)......149/158 ......................117/129 WRX Sedan (MT/AT)......163/163 ........?............119/132......? fr WRX Wagon (MT/AT).....163/163.........?............132/144......?

not if he retains the stock injectors and sensors.

what year legacy? my 1991 open 4.11 doesnt have fins.

want to sell that hatch? PM me.

I was looking into this a while back. you can hook up all the ej sensors and ecu but not run fuel through the injectors and have your ignition. you should run either an impco 300 or 425 mixer, Id go 300.

yeah, just get the car about 2' off the ground so you have some space underneath, build a trans cradle out of wood and bolt it to your floor jack, voila instant trans jack. ive pulled and installed trans by myself with this contraption, just take your time and be careful.though with a chain and piece of pipe 2 people can pull a light engine such as a subaru.

nice ej20g $600 e-manage $200 fmic setup 300 assorted bits to make it all work $1000+ youre just wasting your time trying to make a 3500lb car with an NA 4 banger and 35% drivetrain loss fast.

also 4 lug watercooled VW's, older 4 lug mazdas such as miatas and 323's, 4 lug bmw's(hot alloy 13"ers off a e21 320i) the vw's are hub centric, not sure about any others or any offsets. there are several cool looking 13"ers from vw rabbits.

id rather pull a trans then a motor myself. oil seperator plate-is that the plate on the back of the block? Ive heard good things about the metal ones, a guy that works at CCR recomended them to me. here's my thoughts-if it aint broke dont fix it. fix the stuff only if it actually leaks. check the tolerances of the water and oil pumps with the factory specs. my 158k ej22 was within spec on both pumps, so why replace parts that are within spec right?. replace the oil pump o-ring on principle.

any decent machine shop can offset grind your crank but the custom rods will be a pain unless there is another application that has a smaller rod journal than the ej25 crank and the proper length and pin diameter. I bet there is something close out there somewhere just takes a lot of searching.

but cant you flip the ring gear around?

never heard of powder but you can use lead shot, bb's, ball bearings, etc or there is a company that makes some ceramic stuff.

if the older trans to use an aircooled motor will be the same pattern as type 4 motor(which I imagine it uses) you can most likely bolt up a ej with the kennedy adapter. but personally Id just put a aba block with 1.816v head in the fox.

ESPECIALLY the eg33. sounds like one bad rump roast swap, I love 'vairs.

perfect car for a ej22e/P1 ej25 frankenmotor. the ej18 ecu runs a lot more aggressive timing than an ej22e ecu, so power will be around 180 or so with a decent exhaust and some delta cams. plus since that motor uses all ej22e top end, there is no wiring involved. and go 5mt for sure. if youre not after power, a $200 ej22 would be a fine and easy direct swap.

I made one but havent put it on yet mainly cause my design sucks, but I was going to put it in line between the large crankcase vent and the PCV valve on the manifold.smoking on start up is likely something else like valve seals. I'm just going to buy one of the cheapo ones off of ebay. for what they are, you cant beat the price.

I'd rock it...

good work, I like the color a lot. again, not my cup of tea but sure enough it must be the builder's so more power to him. a couple things that bother me on the car are the spoiler, and how the doors arent blended with the rest of the body. but still some damn impressive bodywork.:cool:

if the compression is good, even, and the motor is not using a ton of oil, go for it. you could make your money back pretty easy if there are some good parts on the car. you might even resell that legacy as-is if it is clean, and make some money that way. kinda a shame to part out clean legacies when there are so many nasty ones around.

I'm running the ej22 head/ej25 block in my legacy. it is a good street motor for sure. I get 26mpg combined highway driving at 85-100mph and flooring it around town. my pops has gotten 33mpg in the car but he drives like he is in his 80's. the motor is torquey, but not fast. with some delta cams and a 2.5" exhaust, it would haul some rump roast. in a small light car it would RIP. the leggy is 3300lbs wet and a loyale is more like 2600 IIRC. another good option is the EJ hybrid some guy in the retrofitting forum just asked about, ej25DOHC heads on a ej25 SOHC block which is bigger compression, 10.65:1. the DOHC heads are some of the best subaru has made, and cams/header/2.5" exhaust it will be probably 200hp and super reliable. the funky subaru EJ crank trigger wheel with crazy offset teeth has now been decoded in MS1. that means to wire in an EJ to a megasquirt all you will need to do is add a proper IAC valve. there are a bunch of people who have megasquirted EJ's for rails and kit cars before that, using an EDIS ignition system. for piggybacks you have the greddy e-manage blue which some people have had good luck with and the perfectpower SMT-6 which is a little more expensive and sorta finicky. then there are things like an SAFC. but if you want to build a ea82, do it man. are there things like metal head gaskets for an ea82? maybe to make it stronger, cryo treat the heads so they dont warp, metal head gasket, keep low compression, and do a small block fill(grout you pour into the water passages). do your megasquirt, maybe some delta cams, throw on a wrx turbo, a ebay FMIC, and that should be a more reliable 200-220hp.

a lot of bike motors stand up to turbos ok, which gets you some torque. I would imagine that getting a justy down to 1400lbs or so would be pretty simple especially once you break out the cutoff wheel and go from a heavier car drivetrain to a bike one. R1 motors are super light and compact. would be cool to have the motor in the hatch to put another sprocket on the diff input and run a chain drive that way, or put a driveshaft yoke on the motorcycle trans output sprocket and put the motor up under the hood like a legends racer. 2 bike motors would be better than one though.

very slick. you should think about going to the ej22, they are just as cheap as an ej18 and way more common. I'm not sure what they make at the crank, but a friends 1.8 impreza made 63hp at the wheels. the ej22 should be a straight long block swap with all the ej18 stuff, and maybe have more power as the ej18 has no knock sensor and aggressive timing curves.

no, sohc heads are 50cc whereas dohc heads are 46cc. that would drop some, it is 9.3:1 or so with the thick DOHC gaskets IIRC.