970subaru

CIS aka bosch K jetronic is very boost friendly. not optimum, ie not EM, but effective. well over 300hp is capable with the volvo2.3t or mercedes V8 fuel distributor etc. rabbits are still one of the faster cars for the dollar out there. junkyard turbo setup for 300hp= silly fast. a much more balanced car is something like a 2.0 16v swap with a few tricks, and some dialled suspension. people are even starting to put vr6's in rabbits more often these days. pretty crazy stuff. djkindt how did you post that shot of the dubmodder? I love playing around with that thing.

very doable I bet.

sorry I thought giving him some suggestions on how to search would soften the blow lol no offense meant, su87bi

did you honestly not think of searching before you asked this? in the wrong forum? try something like "homemade lift" or even just "lift" using the offroad forum.

other than a VW or porsche trans, or a subaru trans converted to RWD, no not that I know of. and frankly, whats the point? flat 4's do not fit in very many cars that well that would actually be worth swapping a 4 banger into, and there are plenty of 4 bangers out there that do fit. yes, I know the EJ is the coolest 4 banger EVAR. but the logistics of both fitting one in an engine bay and adapting one to a rwd trans are just way more hassle than the benefit you would see. its too bad really, they probably have one of the higher power capability to weight ratios of any assembled 4 banger. the long block is 139lbs, N/A ready to run say 240, turbo add 20lbs, and something like ej20k or RS-RA heads on a stock internals ej22t with the right management and turbo could make well over 400hp. 200hp is no sweat for an NA ej25 with a few tricks. a 5mt with the center diff welded might handle the job well enough, and sure would be a lot easier and more proven than an adapter to an uncommon trans. not sure what kind of power they can handle in rwd though.

atmospheric BOV's are no good, letting off meterd air makes the car run like crap. better to go recirc.

first, put a eaton M62 on top of your motor then, make new fenders, one out of metal roofing and one out of a chevy corsica fender 14 bolt dually rear axle with the dually wheels, mismatched tires of course dash mounted elephant rifle(no windshield) bed mounted M60

really depends on a lot of things, I think its more a symptom than a problem perse.

do you have the shift support rod seated in teh body mount correctly? do you have the pitch stopper attached? everything is bolted up kosher? these cars really have horrible shift bushings. and the liquid filled engine mounts are probably busted, get some impreza or WRX engine mounts, or group N's. there are several poly shift bushings you can get for the WRX that will work on the legacy.

justy people, would there be room in the engine bay for an inline 4cyl rwd motor like a KA24? KA's can be had dirt cheap and the KA can take a good bit of boost in stock form, 300hp or so's worth. with the driveshaft tunnel cut up to accomodate a transmission, and an r160 swap, that would be a ridiculously fast car. probably would be really hard to drive too with the short wheelbase. basically a nicer, IRS toyota starlet.

there are some pretty good MLS gaskets available for the ej25's now.(all metal)

no way man:lol: prefacelift FTW anyway I like mobbin in snow and rallying so low isnt really for me. though it would look very good low I agree.

maybe its a cvt 2wd. just playin, that is a SAAWWEEET interior.

thanks operose nobody thought so on legacycentral lol(aka 206er) I even got flamed for posting driveway pics.

best block, crank and rods... the heads and pistons suck for big power. for a mild, low end to midrange motor they are teh ************. intercooler, fuel cut defender(homemade for a few bucks), mbc, 3" wrx downpipe and whatever custom exhaust for the brat, coffee mug mod, 14psi or so, and that will be one FAST brat.

if you can snag the ej22t for a good price, do that. its pretty easy to get one well above 200hp, and it will be a very good midrange and low end motor.

here she be

cutting springs dangerous? no. depends on a lot of factors. cutting with a saw will not weaken the spring, cutting with a torch will if you dont have the rest of the spring in some water.and if you cut the same amounts, you are changing the design predictably.

I have payed 260 for a set of 2002 wrx wheels but that was in 2002 and they had perfect tread payed 250 for a set of 2005 wrx wheels with some curb rash and perfect tread in 2005

first verfy that you actually need to do the job... its a non interference motor so the only thing that busting a timing belt causes is inconvenince. look for big cracks in the inner and outer belt surface. if you know the way to do the job, heres a few tricks... do it without the radiator in the car, way easier hold the T belt on the cam gears in the right place using several clothes pins while you thread the belt the rest of the pulleys. use a small nail to hold the tensioner. maybe do the water pump and/or oil pump at the same time since you have access?

yeah, ej22e/ej25 is ok but there are better NA buildups especially given the parts that WJM says he has to work with.

DOHC heads on a phase II block will have some nice high compression. the SOHC piston dish and DOHC combustion chamber are smaller.

yeah werent there the last DOHC's and the first SOHC's in 1999?

they are stronger, I dont know why I said that before. brain fart or something

of course it CAN be done. should you? hell no. first, have you priced a 6mt? compare 6th gear ratio of a 6mt to a regular 5mt 5th gear ratio and I think youll be disappointed. too bad, otherwise there would be quite a few STi's running around with some SERIOUS top end. also, you arent going to gain a whole ton of strength over a 5mt. some, but not much. for the price, a straight cut box would be better.