daeron Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 hey folks. Since I got my 87 GL-10 from my brother, it has given me difficulty "slamming" the driver side door. By "slamming," I simply mean closing by throwing towards the frame, rather than pushing into the car with your hand in contact the entire time. As long as I keep my hand on the door to "follow-through" it shuts just fine.. but sometimes, when I "slam" it (push closed without "following through") it only closes halfway, leaving the dome light on.... Now, I have worked with car doors, and top/sill-less car windows a great deal, and I am confident that I can figure out the issue. It matters not to me, whether the door itself needs adjusting, or if the window is a little out of whack.. BUT I was curious if anyone else has had issues similar, and if so, whether any of y'all have determined the window, or the door, to be the likely culprit. This is a "background" problem, something I have just been too lazy to investigate myself, and I figured I would ask the USMB what they thought/had experienced in the past. it is a sedan, by the way... and JUST to avoid any complication, my doors have no top frame for the window.... the glass butts right against the doorjamb weatherseal.... so if your door is different, your info does NOT apply to me anyways, all help/tips/thoughts are appreciated. Like I said, I've worked alot with car door AND windows before, and know about adjusting them.....and I know I am merely stabbing at the dark; asking the forum if they have had similar issues, BUT I figured before I tear into it myself, may as well ask if anyone else has had similar issues....and any tips or tircks are welcome. Even if I already know them (like the penny behind the hinge trick) it is good for posterity's sake (ie, peaople in the future searching on this subject.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Could be the door frame itself. On the wagon we just converted from auto to manual the drivers door is like that. On this one it's due to a drunken encounter with a curb by the previous owner. He hit hard enough to crumple the drivers fender and crush the suspension on that side as well. We got it looking decent, but he hasn't tackled the door just yet other than saying it was a bit bent under the wheel well. Then on my Brat I replaced the door, and it's fine, but the window isn't adjusted properly so it's not quite right either. I just have been working on other things and haven't had a chance to adjust it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 You can adjust the striker on the B-pillar. That should solve your problem unless the door is out of alignment. Do you see any rub marks around the door frame? If you do not see any marks then adjust the striker. Do not take the screws out of it though. Just loosen them enough to slide the striker around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Latch can also get debris inside... from things like backing up with the door open through the underbrush, etc... not that anyone here would do such a thing... If the striker alignment is good try some grease on the latch too. DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 Excellent. The striker plate was where I was going to start, but then I realized that my window isnt as tight in its rails as it could be.. so I began to think it might be that causing it, as well. Sometimes a slam gets it shut, sometimes not all the way. SOO the plan is to yank the doorpanel, and tighten up the nuts etc on all the window rails/hardware, then see what it works like.. then check the striker plate adjustment. This car is straight as an arrow, all original body panels (judging from the paint job, it all has the same universal *TINY*BIT* of surface oxidation except the trunklid I replaced, which is shiny ) so I doubt its been impacted in any way.. BUT its a rusty chassis, so there IS a nonzero chance of frame "settling..." None of the other doors have a problem, though. Thanks for the comments, I will dig this thread up when I get around to investivgating the problem more. I posted because I realized it might not be door adjustment, after all.. and I figured I would see if anyone else had ever had WINDOWS cause a problem like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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