DasWaff

Well I wasn't careful enough in this surprising February cold snap and in trying to trace a coolant leak I let the anti-freeze get too dilute. Engine froze solid and cracked the block. Sadly I do not have the time to do another engine swap. So... her remains are now on sale in the market place. '86 GL-10. Thanks a bunch to everyone here who helped me keep her running for so long. DW http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71516

When you pull the oil pan you may want to soak the bolts in mineral spirits, it will remove any gunk which has built up on the under side of the bolt head. At 4 ftlb you really want a clean fit between engine, gasket, pan, and bolts. Also (I know, I'm repeating myself) clean the pickup screen while you have the pan off. A spare oil pan is a great thing to have... It can be cleaned and prepped in advance, then swapped. The old one can then be cleaned at your leisure, especially true where the gasket has become one with the pan. You may also want to replace the O ring on the dipstick tube while you have it out when you pull the T belt covers. It can not only leak a surprising amount of oil out but as GD noted elsewhere, allow air to leak in to the 'sealed' system too. If the tube and dipstick are nicely sealed the engine should run slightly rougher at warm idle when you pull the dipstick up. As for your landlady... ??!! Maybe a dart gun and Estrogen... Good Luck, DW

'87 DL wagon, drove it 3 years, became a Subaru junkie, but had to quit driving it because of the insane rust... But I traded what was left (mostly the sweet spfi engine and cabin electricals) for my current GL-10 wagon w/dead engine plus a working EA82t with 220K on it. Bought a wrecked GL-10 for parts, it was crushed soon after. I imagine I'll still be here when the topics are distilling your own fuel, electric conversion, and modifying your wagon to be horse drawn. DW

Well, the real question is more like whats my build budget... Gonna hit a couple of the zillions of body shops around here and try to get her a fresh coat of paint. The wagon is my work 'truck' and I'd like to keep it as rust free as possible. Also going to try to figure out what can be done about the fine cracks in the rear black corner wraps, if anything. Actually I didn't know it had a digi when I got it. I do still prefer the analog gauges but I have adjusted and become kinda fond of the amber digi, especially the turbo animation, and it draws a lot of comments from the folks who ride in it. With only the posted photos to go on, your wagon definitely seems lighter and redder than mine. I've never seen the same brown as mine in person, but I have seen a couple of pics of Subies that color. I'm hoping the shop can match that metal flake brown, I'd like to keep it. You would think it wouldn't show dirt but all the red mud around here stands right out. I need to find a couple of trim bits, I have the original grill and an '87 grill, and I'm going to leave the gutter trim off. Biggest problems inside are a badly sagging head liner and a worn back seat. I ran a bunch of the seat, cockpit, and dash plastic through the dishwasher while I was working on the electrics and it came out great. We'll see how it goes... DW

Notice I did not say "my boxer"... DW

As I understand it, harmonic balancer is a shock mounted crankshaft pulley that compensates for the stresses caused by the (unequal) angle(s) at which power strokes exert force on the crankshaft. One angle in an inline or slant, two in a 'V' configuration. Since the flat four power strokes are inherently 180 degrees apart the crankshaft sees equal opposing forces which eliminates the need for the harmonic balancer. A smooth running boxer looks motionless at idle because of the great balance, probably could pass the old Duesenberg nickel standing on edge trick.

I dunno... Seems to me its should read more like,"Welcome to hell... Here is your Yugo/Fiat/Plymouth Horizon/AMC Pacer/Skoda." Unless of course he has to ride in the jump seat.

Glad it wasn't worse, and that both of you are still 'road worthy' Hope the rest of the pic post we see from you are all upgrades! DW

All, well here is the wagon after all the engine and elec work is completed . Now time for a bit of cosmetic work. But I wanted you all to see the beast. Thanks to everyone up here who helped me get this far!! And a special thanks to Ed Rachner who went well out of his way to help me with my Pug wheel madness. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=18065 So next is a trip to DMV, then some trim work etc. I'll post more pics later DasWaff btw, the silver LeSabre in the background is my Mother in law's...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13396&cat=500 Mine won't show the lowest temp bar, and since I snapped these right after starting you cannot see temp indicator. Amber '86 Digi Dash DW

I know, but as I said this isn't the original engine... might get lucky:) I always thought is was "O.I.L. Ohhell Install Longblock" DW

Thanks I'll have a look and see if I need the sender, it would be nice/easier if this motor has one... and thanks for the after market info too. DW

My '86 GL-10 has a digi dash, so no oil pressure gauge, just an idiot light... I'm wondering if my newer EA82T has an oil pressure sender on it, but I'm not sure exactly where to look. So today's dumb question is, where is the oil pressure sending unit located? (If there is one). Thanks, DasWaff

Latch can also get debris inside... from things like backing up with the door open through the underbrush, etc... not that anyone here would do such a thing... If the striker alignment is good try some grease on the latch too. DW

I think the majority of us EA82T drivers are resigned to the power output of the engine (especially if you have ever driven a complete dog 1.8 in another car) and instead love it for its robust nature, relative simplicity, and the ease of maintaining it. Mods for a serious power increase are expensive and tend to up the stresses throughout the engine. Hats off to those who go to the trouble and expense absolutely! But I think almost all of us would agree the EJ22t is a better starting platform for performance. That said, its your world... $0.02 DW

Speaking of do yourself a favor... If you pull the pan gasket, you might want to go ahead and clean the uptake screen. You can either pull it and rinse it with mineral spirits, or let it soak in a jar of solvent for an hour or so still attatched. Just make sure the solvent has evaporated completely before you re-install the pan. The RTV coated gasket sounds like a fine idea to me too. DW

LOL... most of us have left a little skin behind at one time or another...DW

Sorry about the mismatch, but that was the number on the package...(gggrrr) I went to the website and cross checked and the link is: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7ERelay%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EPilot+Heavy+Duty+Relay%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E124003%7C%7E3264%7C%7EPL-RY1%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E%243.99%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E0.15%7C%7EEA%7C%7EB%7C%7EPIL%7C%7Etrue I changed the original post, again sorry all. The autozone number is PL-RY1. Glad the windows are working better. DW

If the engine ran really smoothly on starter fluid, it is less likely to be a timing belt problem. If it ran roughly then they are difinitely something to consider. The timing belt covers are the big black plastic beasts that cover the front of the engine behind the fan and V (fan and alternator) belts. The cover is divided into three sections. The big pulley, crankshaft pulley, in the middle emerges through your center timing belt cover. On either side of that pulley are the two smallish rubber ovals... they just pop out. As General Disorder said you should be able to feel the belt inside. You can also take a 10mm socket or wrench and remove the outermost 4 bolts on the passenger's side, and remove the cover. Behind that you should see an unfrayed taut timing belt wrapped around a big gear, the camshaft pulley. Ditto the driver's side, outermost 4 bolts pop the cover. The two outer pieces of the timing belt cover are (relatively) easy to remove and replace. The center one requires more work. Having your timing go out will make it backfire, among other things. This pic shows a pulled engine with the passenger's side timing belt cover resting on top. You can clearly see the 4 bolt holes in the cover section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6142&si=timing%20belt%20cover&perpage=12 Also in the pic you can see a tensioner pulley with a small spring attached...? One of the rubber ovals (passenger's side) is in front of the bolts that hold that pulley to the engine. Feel upward though the hole covered by the rubber oval for that timing belt. The other tensioner has the same face, but is mounted differently. It is below the water pump, next to the gear with the red ring in the center. The bolts that hold it are just at the edge of the shadow in the pic. Again the rubber oval (driver's side) is over those bolts. Feel downward for that timing belt. I'm sorry I do not have and couldn't find a better pic... Hope this helps. The more details you can send the better! DasWaff

I figured before I zipped this back up I ought take a pic of the power window components under the passenger's side seat. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13335&cat=500 ...and yes, for those who are curious that is an OEM Fuji Heavy Industries carpet holding ball point pen. BTW... I just did the whole 9 yards on my windows, new relay, cleaned all 4 switches, lubed tracks, and cleaned the ground. Made a huge difference!! windows move way faster and the motors sound much less strained. DW

As a bearing test?? DW

Yes, same pin config and orientation. You can double check though, the digram is printed on both. DW

Yeah, one of mine... takes a little patience to get it started evenly because it will try to start to go in at an angle, for the very last few taps you can use a piece of 1x4 on edge to get it flush. DW

Also remember that pushing the seal further inward than flush reduces the size of the oil passage behind it... DW

Temp sensor is buried on the intake manifold on the passenger's side, closer to the fire wall than the radiator. If you pull the big metal air ducts you will see it, it has a rectangular plug, and its not too far from the knock sensor. Both my old DL and my current GL-10 have thrown that code, both times it was the connection to the sensor. I soldered two leads to the sensor, then added two crimped disconnects, and then covered the soldered leads with silicon rubber to keep them from corroding. Good luck. DW Here is a pic of the sensor, its the one with the driver sticking out.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13327&cat=500