DasWaff

the first number 185 or 175 or 205 is width in mm, the second number is ratio of tread width to sidewall, third number is rim diameter in inches. So... 175/70-R13 is a 175 mm tread width with (175 x .70) 122 mm sidewall which fits a 13" rim. A 205/50 R 15 is a 205 mm tread width, with a 102 mm sidewall, that fits a 15 inch rim. DasWaff

Acetone may well be acting as a fuel system cleaner... Many otc gas treatments are basically mineral spirits, similar solvents. My grandfather used kerosene on the outside of the car, wiping the body and chrome down with a rag and kero after a wash, his cars always looked great but I don't think I'd try it with clear coat finish . Adding kerosene does reduce the volatility of fuel, so maybe it solves slightly premature combustion issues, certainly it has a hell of a lot less sulfur in it than diesel does. It also burns pretty darn clean compared to diesel... Still I'd really like to see some independent research on the effects. I'm still burning off a very old tank of gas in the wagon, soon it will be nice new gasoline and a new fuel filter... and no more of this elderly sta-bil laden chug juice. DW

The Autozone relay is a 'Pilot' brand and it isn't even behind the parts counter its just on a rack on the sales floor. The Autozone part is: PL-RY1 and it is in "after market lighting accessories". However, I did not see it at any other parts stores... :-( But their web site says they have stores in Wa. This thread has the Bosch info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55372&highlight=power+window+bosch+relay The relay, control unit, and ground screw are all under the passenger's seat, beneath the carpet. (At least they are on my wagon, and I think they are on your rx sedan too) This location makes the grounds very vulnerable to moisture. Hope this helps, DW

Two more inexpensive things you can try. Replace the relay, auto zone has a $4 plug in replacement (you can upgrade to the Bosch or whatever later if it proves to be the problem) and clean the ground contacts at the ground screw, often corroded by moisture. Also you can test the motors with a known good 12V source and or check the voltage after the switch to see if it is approx 12V. Love to see an electric window gremlin bite the dust. DasWaff

Ahso... So if you have removed the A/C (like me) then the clutch fan is really a moot point anyway... good to know. DW

My $0.02 addition would be; a couple of ratcheting nylon cargo straps, a good pistol grip screwdriver (to break those tough to get phillips screws), and a foam boat seat cushion (for my knees or head if I'm lying on my back). DW

I like Esh's pic better... DW

Hey all, this post is for those of you, like myself, that have to deal with completely proprietary auto parts stores such as Advance Auto. They cannot quickly (or accurately) convert part #'s into bin #'s or sku's . SO... the Stant part # for the 180 degree F Superstat thermostat is 45858, but if they are compelled to look up parts by year and model and it doesn't show up under your EA82 Subaru it is also the thermostat for the 1987 Nissan Pulsar SE. Just an FYI for those who care... DW

Let us not forget the possibility of a bad fuel pump relay as well... DW

Ground fault is definitely a high percentage bet. A decade ago, my old SPFI GL had CEL roulette, threw a wide range if incorrect codes for a couple of weeks, but especially TPS and solenoid. I had a ground wire broken inside the insulation (mine was the one at the back of the intake manifold) and after I finally found and fixed it... no more incorrect codes. DasWaff

Great, Thanks!!

BTW the goal of this is to be able to add a two row radiator, with the 110mm water pump, and not make removing the fan a major challenge. So with the 2nd electric fan, one would just add an aftermarket temp sensor and relay to control it?? I like the idea of not having a big spinning weight on the end of the water pump shaft... The flex-a-lite appealed because it is so much lighter than the stock mechanical fan. DW

I got an email right after posting this with the Flex-a-lite alternative. Rated up to 8K rpm. Need to measure for the spacer. I'll post more if this works out. Thanks, DW

Hey all, Does anyone know if there is a fixed mechanical fan option that will replace the stock fan and clutch? Seems like there would be something out there with a smaller diameter and shorter shaft. I tried an advanced search but no luck. Thanks, DasWaff

5 Watts, Thanks!!

'86 GL-10 EA82T 5spd 4WD gets about 25 mpg in 'fun mode' and about 29 in 'sane driving' mode. DW

I'm a big believer in pulling the oil pan and cleaning the scunge off the bottom and cleaning the oil pickup screen... But maybe that's just me, the Felix Unger of oil. Also wanted to give this site a bump on USMB again, for those who may not have seen it. Pretty cool, and the site has lots of info and is not a giant sales pitch. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ DasWaff

I search some of threads that deal with replacing the solenoid with a 68 ohm resistor. My manifold doesn't have one but my wiring harness and ECU are expecting one. Big question: Does anyone know what the wattage rating for the resistor should be?? This is what I have found online: 70-Ohm limit resistor This seems like overkill to me Anyone have an idea? Thanks, DW

I just did the 3 fronts and rear seal on my EA82, and the actual seal replacement time is pretty small. There is a PVC pipe fitting, with one end for gluing and the other end with female threads for a threaded plug. The end designed to glue onto other PVC pipe fits nicely on the rear main seal. If you screw the plug into the pipe you can tap the plug with a rubber mallet to drive the seal into place. I think it is a 2 1/2" PVC pipe, I took the old seal to Home Depot for sizing. I had to do the rear main twice because I used too much grease the first time and drove it too far into the seat. Also a good idea to clean the oil channel behind the seals while you're there. If you use a seal puller, I bought one for $8, make sure you pad the fulcrum with something like a small piece of leather to keep it from digging into the aluminum. Break a leg, DasWaff

OK... I think I found my specific problem. I started going over the cooling system with a fine tooth comb. I pulled my thermostat and tested it and two spares in hot water with a candy thermometer. One failed completely, the other two just barely opened at approx 98 degrees C. One was a Stant, the other two were OEM (including the one that didn't work at all). Hmmmmm... This sounds very familiar, like straight out of one of General Disorder's posts I believe. The leak was in the thermostat housing, back side, and was a tiny, flat, silent, fine mist which evaporated almost immediately... I saw it because of a beam of sunlight was refracting a rainbow in the mist, lucky fluke there. So now I'm thinking I may switch over to a slightly cooler thermostat, say 180 degrees F instead of the stock 192. Glad to be enlightened about the turbo thermo syphon. I assume that when the system is working correctly the thermo syphon releases its pressure to the overflow tank and then reclaims the coolant when everything has cooled?? Thanks everyone for your help, DW

Ok... I went out and messed with it some more. It is not bubbling back into the overflow at normal temp. In fact while its running its not losing coolant as far as I can tell, system stayed cool enough to pop the radiator cap off and check, no problem, no bubbles. It seems to be losing coolant after its shut down from normal opperating temp. Still no visible steam or drips nor hissing hoses or fittings. I think Beataru is right... The high water temp after shut down is creating enough pressure to cuase a leak somewhere, compromising the pressurization, and that noise is boiling water. I'm starting to wonder if it has a fine crack in the intake manifold that only leaks when the pressure is high. That would match with what I'm seeing... and it would explain why it runs sort of clunky for a few seconds when it first starts up after one of these tests even when it has been allowed to cool down. It has to burn off the water that has leaked into the manifold. I should be able to test that theory by opening the throttle body right after shut down and having a look and listen, right?

OK, good to know... I just finished installing this motor recently. Its a low milage (47K) used from NYBE. Has lots of power and runs smoothly, and seems to be fine. I don't see any other signs of a head gasket problem, so I don't think that is my source, although stranger things have happened. Yup, when I did the intake gaskets I had a close look at that beast, pretty confident there. I'm about frustrated enough to give up and sell her... well at least this afternoon I am. Thanks for your help all. DW

Hey all, I've been fighting coolant loss in my '86 GL-10 turbo for a month now and I'm stumped. Went over all the hoses, new water pump (changed it with the engine swap), heater core, all dry. Figured it had to be the intake manifold gasket...VERY carefully replaced gaskets, cleaned surfaces, cleaned bolts and threads, torqued bolts down to 13ft/lb. Still losing coolant... Symptoms: when I shut it off after getting it warmed up, there are noisy percolating/bubbling noises coming from the radiator hose on the passenger side. I tried to trace them (using the screwdriver as stethescope method) and they seem to end at the turbo. Is there some way I could be leaking coolant into the turbo unseen? Is there some other likely source that I'm over looking? Your thoughts would be appreciated. DasWaff

Agreed, this was the only fix that worked on my old GL, and it worked well. My only addition would be take your time when you retap. DW

OK, its not a good pic... Just removed these yesterday for a rim swap. Tried to take a quick pic, but it was tougher than I thought it would be. I'm going to borrow a camera with a macro lens and use a tripod. But you can get a general idea that the pug is more bullet shaped and the bulge nut is more of a cone. Also better focus will let me show that the bulge nut is wearing in two distict bands, one on either side of the groove. I'll also shoot one of the wheel. As far as any other differences, important or not, the pug lug is one piece and its heavier. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12875&cat=500 It isn't the hugest difference in the world, but there is definitely more metal to metal with the original lugs. DW