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Brake Pads...what makes the difference?
Posted 04 December 2003 - 03:26 PM
Is there anything I should ask them do to that would be out of the ordinary, as in different brake pads or whatnot?
I drive my car pretty hard when I am on my way to emergency calls, and braking definitely is important (yeah, I need to stop), anything people reccommend?
Posted 04 December 2003 - 03:49 PM
They seem to perform just like the stock pads otherwise. Since they're new, I'm not qualified to comment on any sort of long-term wear issues.
Posted 04 December 2003 - 09:55 PM
Posted 04 December 2003 - 10:08 PM
But I recently did a brake job on my Legacy and I did it quite nicely. I changed all 8 pads and turned all 4 rotors for the cost of someone doing just the fronts, and I got the best pads I could get at Autozone. Those are Raybestos pads, and while they do brake the car very well, I have noticed some fade after about 30 min of slightly "spirited" driving ...
If you don't know when the brake fluid was last changed, it's worth it to change it. I just took the hoses off the calipers and let the system gravity drain. Then I put Valvoline synthetic brake fluid in, and a simple bleeding with an assistant's help, and I was done!
Really, give it a shot yourself. It's not difficult.
Posted 04 December 2003 - 10:18 PM
Posted 04 December 2003 - 11:11 PM
Posted 04 December 2003 - 11:34 PM
Oppie, The first time I done brakes I gave my brother in law who is a shadetree mechanic a small fee to teach me. It has saved me lots of money being I go through so many brakes, however no more brakes than most people go through, it might not be worth the effort.
Posted 05 December 2003 - 12:08 AM
I think it is normal for the inner pad to wear a little faster than the outer pad on all wheels because of the pistons being in direct contact with that side.
Posted 05 December 2003 - 08:30 AM
They probably don't list a part for your car, but email them and see if they can make you a set.... http://carbotecheng.com/main.htm
Only issue is, yes they will be a little more then your autozone pads. probably in 80-90 range.....give or take.
My mintex pads were about 100-110 for front and rear......but they do stop very well.
Also....the subaru brake system is about the easiest brake system I think I've worked on. I've practically re-engineered the entire thing. The only braking componants that remain from stock are the hard brake lines & the booster. Everything else has been swapped out, front & rear rotors, pads, lines, MC, & prop valve.
Posted 05 December 2003 - 10:28 AM
Posted 05 December 2003 - 10:43 AM
I can't think of any special tools you'll need, besides wrenches and sockets.
Be careful removing some of those bolts, however. I still have a scar on my right hand index finger where I was struggling to loosen the banjo bolt on the left rear hose, and it came loose suddenly, and my knuckle went flying across the control arm bolt!
Posted 05 December 2003 - 01:13 PM
If you are going to bleed the brakes I always recommend replacing the bleeders on a car that age and put a little anti-sieze on the upper threads of the new ones. Take a look and see if the hexagon is rusted off or if they look really bad. Be careful not to break them or you will be replacing the caliper or wheel cylinder. I always bleed all four wheels when I am doing it. A car that age that has been exposed to salt will be a bear to work on, regardless of what you are doing. I recommend soaking all fasteners for several days with penetrating oil before starting, especially until you get a feel for how much force it takes to break something.
I posted the procedure here:
Posted 05 December 2003 - 02:54 PM
... , safety glasses .
Safety glasses? Oh come now, need to have some fun in knowing you might hurt yourself while working on your car! Of course my tune would change real quick after I lost or damaged one of my eyes!
Posted 05 December 2003 - 03:42 PM
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