Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Resistor block location for blower motor
Posted 13 January 2004 - 01:09 PM
the blower motor only works on 3 and 4 settings and I understand it is the resistor pack which is bad. I looked for it behind the glove box (in a bone-yard car) but could not find it. Where is it?
Posted 13 January 2004 - 01:25 PM
remove the lower kickpanel from the dash. and you will see the heater box, its toward the bottom, held on by 2 screws, and a green and red wire to a clip.
the coiils are towards the inside of the heater box.
Posted 13 January 2004 - 03:20 PM
The resistor coils sit in the path of the blown air so you will not see them until the block is removed.
It is easier if you remove the trim panel under the glove box door.
Two of the three mounting screw are obvious, the last is one of the blower mount bolts.
The 4 wires to the block are blue (three of which have trace colors)
Hope this helps, here is what it will look like after the panel is removed
Posted 14 January 2004 - 04:23 AM
are they head sensitive, variable resistance, like maf.
or just each one is a resistor. i would think that if the middle wan was broken, inly 1 and 4 will work.
and f the first one is broken, only 3 and 4, and if the thrid one was broken, only 1 and 2
so basically i am asking what is the purpose of it being exposed to the blown air?
Posted 14 January 2004 - 05:59 AM
Posted 14 January 2004 - 07:23 AM
Posted 14 January 2004 - 08:56 AM
Once again you guys are great,I know alot of the info asked by people is very redundant to you old time experts,yet you always seem to step up to the plate.
No pics needed but where is mine hiding?
Posted 14 January 2004 - 10:10 AM
Posted 14 January 2004 - 07:42 PM
Thank you! I thought I had to tear into the heater box to get at the little bugger. Now I can get back setting #1!
To the boneyard I go, to get lots of little doodads:D
Posted 10 February 2004 - 10:36 PM
For me, it was when my windshield gasket weathered out (Texas sun, ya know), and the windshield started leaking rainwater. The water came down into the air ductwork, and pooled of course at the lowest points: the blower motor brushes, and the resistor block. The blower motor soon rusted and siezed up, and shortly after that the resistor block burned out.
I put in a used motor from the junkyard, but with the bad resistor block this motor worked only at the top speed. So from Ebay I got another blower motor as a spare, and some used resistor blocks. Now (after sealing the windshield gasket) the fan motor works again at all 4 speeds.
Does anyone know what specific Resistance values those coil resistors are? I know they're quite low, less than 1 or 2 ohms. I was wondering if one could rebuild that resistor block with some more rugged standard wirewound power resistors, something maybe not so delicate as those little ones in the stock unit.
Posted 11 February 2004 - 01:18 AM
When I measured the resistance with a multimeter each resistor was around 1 ohm, although they were all of different wire diameter.
To answer Milesfox's question about which resistor controls which setting:
When the fan is on low, the current goes through all three resistors (for around 3 ohms total resistance) so a break in any of the resistors will keep the fan from working.
When the fan is on setting 2, the current only goes through the two heavier resistors (2 ohms), so a break in the small coil will not matter, but the other two have to be ok.
You can guess setting 3 (only depends on the thickest resistor)
Setting 4 goes through none of the resistors, so even if they are all broken you will still have a blower.
In my case settings 1 and 2 didn't work. I didn't want to trek out to the wrecker for a new unit, so I managed to twist the broken ends of the coils together (the nickel-chromium wire won't solder very well). Pretty delicate work. Should've just gotten a replacement. Anyway, it works now.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users