Leaderboard

Most of the wiring and modules we removed. Keyless entry, airbags, TCU, ECU, aftermarket cruise wiring. At first we couldn't remove the ignition key from the lock cylinder even in the off position. If you plug the shifter (big white thing) in to that white wire plug and have it in park, then you can remove the key. Those blue and red wires go the park position sensor. The two black wires below that go to the lock cylinder seem to be the culprit. If you unplug them at this connector under the steering column you can take the key out normally. Then you don't have to deal with the park position sensor. The black connector with two white wires is the other side of the connector. Alternator wiring. The two big white wires go to the large post. Then the black/white wire is the same on both cars so I spliced those. Spliced the other one. I did order a wire plug for this so I can get rid of the splices. Spliced a wire off the EZ36 coolant temp sensor to the dash but that caused the Haltech and dash to read low. Thought about running an output from the Haltech to the temp gauge, maybe I will eventually but I installed an EZ30 coolant temp sensor. Same threads, has three pins instead of two. In the EZ30(D) cars, one pin (2) goes to the ECU, the other one goes to the gauge. I was hoping this would make the sensor read more accurately on the Haltech (I think it reads about 20F higher than actual) since that's what the base map was set up for but it seems to read the same as the 2 pin sensor. I ran this purple wire from pin 3 under the intake in some small loom. Put a spade connection near the engine harness plug. Unfortunately this didn't accomplish much. Seems to read the same as the EZ36 sensor on the Haltech. Gauge fairly quickly goes beyond H as soon as the engine starts warming up. For reference, the 2001 EZ30(D) sensor reads: 4.6kohms 30F 2.7kohms 60F 190 ohms 212F (not sure how accurate this is) The 98 Impreza gauge reads: 100 ohms (to ground) H 120 ohms 2/3 150 ohms top of C 180 ohms bottom of C After some trial and error I spliced a 100 ohm resistor between the gauge and sensor and now the gauge and needle is in the middle at operating temp (200-210F on the Haltech). This was without the ground for the temp and fuel gauges grounded (see below, pin 16 of the 16 pin EJ connector). After we grounded that, I removed the 100 ohm resistor and the temp gauge is functional. Seems to read low though, at normal operating temp (200-210F according to the Haltech but probably a little lower than that) the temp gauge only reads about 1/3. As long as it's consistent it should be good. Here we have the wires for the instrument cluster. connector a/i10 pin 1&3 speedometer (not working yet, see below) pin 8 R/W check engine light (from Haltech) pin 9 G/W oil pressure switch (from engine) pin 10 G tachometer (from Haltech) connector c/i11 pin 3 Y/G auto trans oil temp (spliced to EZ36 oil level switch, see below) pin 11 W/G coolant temperature (see above)