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Try looking for an EMPI 86-1098-D. See if the boot shape matches. :]

The chrome bumpers is what I always look for on these to indicate 2wd vs 4wd.

I’d argue that new boots on an old OEM cv shaft assembly is well worth the effort if it’s not left to grind along with loads of road grime, water and dirt in there. A mate of mine swears by stretchy boots. I saw one (now a meme somewhere) that wrapped the boot around the shaft a number of times when the gizzards of the CV joint let go for whatever reason. The CV joint was rebuilt on the side of the road and the boot reused! I’ve used various aftermarket boots with good success. I next time I’ll be trying these stretchy boots. Cheers Bennie

When you buy the entire CV axial, the boots will last for a couple hundred thousand miles. What the subaru mechanics like to do it coat them with a fluid that causes them to disintegrate in about 3 weeks, so you will be back in 4 weeks to have even more work done. It is generally a waste of time to put new boots on a high mileage CV axial. Replace the entire assembly.

Yeah the early Manual, dual range 4wd cars (ea81 cars, 80-84) had the 4wd lever pivot point mounted solid to the body. When the trans mounts get bad, and the trans moves around it chnages the relative location to the lever.........causing it to try to engage 4wd. Later models (85-89) with Dual range have the 4wd shifter mounted to the shifter stay, and isolated by a rubber bushing....so the trans can move around, and the lever stays relative with it. The 4wd light and the lever jumping around is definately your trans mounts.

if the axle nut and washers are in place on the other side you should be ok with just the one thats stripped., but with the only thing that was holding you wheel on being your brakes you should look into that too. new pads, if it hasn't eating away at your caliper and bracket too much they could still be used at your own risk. The reason you cant drive it in 2wd with one stripped hub is called an open differential, it sends power to both wheels and if one isnt connected it sends all the power to the one thats slipping. thats why you are able to turn, if it were a locked differential, it would send equal power to both wheels but you couldn't turn very well. the 4wd light is a minor issue like gloyale said probably trans mounts. you said its a loyale with a d/r swap? maybe check the bolts and make sure they are tight.