Roamer

Ok, so as per my previous post, I had issues with my headlights that I thought was connected to this ticking noise. Well it turns out that both my low beams lights were actually burnt out (pretty easy to replace), but that this ticking noise is another independent problem. So whenever the car is running sporadically the directional ticking noise will come and go. It sounds like there is a short somewhere. If I hit the steering wheel the noise will disappear for 30 seconds or so and then come back. I hate electrical issues and don;t know where to start. The sound is soo annoying, any thoughts? BTW this soobie is a 2001 Outback Wagon, automatic with 110k on it. If you guys are wondering why I am posting all of a sudden it is b/c both my parents have gone on vacation and each of them have dropped off their respective subaru to me to fix. Be on the look out next week for posts on the 96 legacy wagon, I can't get rid of that damn P0304 code on that one, but that's for another time:)

I am not as young nor do I have the privilege to have the time on my hands any longer to do basic stuff (i.e change oil, tune-ups and etc.), I am also tired of having to explain to my current mechanic that "...this is a Subaru you are suppose to do it this way..." So I was wondering if any members can direct me to a good local Soobie mechanic in my area. I live in NYC (Northern part of Queens) and would prefer a mechanic either in Queens or Nassau County, Long Island. Thanks.

My mom drives a 2001 Outback (amongst other subarus that we all own) with about 110k on it. Friday night I hop in her car (to drive to Toronto) and notice this ticking noise coming from the dash, it is the identical ticking noise when one engages the turn signals. Anyways long story short the ticking noise comes and goes, then I notice that the headlights will not turn on (i.e. when I engage the switch to turn them on all anicillary lights do go on except for the headlights). However, the high beams do work fine, so I thought that it may be a fuse, so I check the corresponding fuses and they are all fine, then I thought to myself that it most likely is not a fuse because when I try to turn on the head lights all the other ancillary lights do go on. Now this may seem like a stupid question, but the obvious to me now is that the car probably has burnt headlights. I have not had a chance yet to actually pull them out to check (had to ditch her car and drive my dad's 96 legacy to Toronto), but my question is does the 2001 outback have a warning mechanism if the headlights go? I am thinking that the clicking noise coming from the dash and the headlights are linked? Also what are the possibilities of both headlights going at the same time? Any thoughts are appreciated.

Very true stay away from aftermarket axles, they may be cheaper in the short term but once you start replacing axles every year it adds up. I think the same applies to alternators as well, I never came across a reliable aftermarket axle or alternator for any subaru that I have ever owned.

I am in the market for a 96 SVX, my question is was Subaru able to resolve most of the tranny issues that plagued the earlier SVXs? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

I have a 1996 subaru automatic wagon, I keep getting conflicting information from autozone regarding the tranny fluid to use. Can someone please advise. Thanks.

Sorry forot the basics, I have a 1996, Automatic tranny, wagon. I will replace the wires this weekend and see what happens. Thanks

I have a weird CEL issue, I always get the code P0304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire). So what I do is re-set it and it is good for a day until it comes back on, when it comes back on the car idles rough and you can tell that it is a misfire, however here is where I am perplexed. So long as I do not reset the CEL the car will eventually after warming up begin to run fine and go back to normal for months and months at a time, but as soon as I decide to reset the CEL shortly thereafter it will go through the process of running rough and misfiring again. Once it finishes the process so long as the CEL is on it will continue to run fine. I feel like my car is haunted, it some how knows when I have reset the CEL light and when I do it will turn it back on again and as long as I leave it alone (i.e. not reset the CEL) it will run fine, or maybe I am going crazy? Any input is appreciated:)

Great looking car, with a great interior. When I was much younger this was one of my favorite cars, however after my own research at the time and I believe this is the general consensus the following are what you should look out for: 1. The transmission on these 92 models seem to all be susceptible to failure at around 80k, unless a tranny cooler is installed and even then they still go; 2. The rear-end on these models seem to also give away at a high rate; and 3. The rotors seem to warp due to the fact that they can not handle the weight of the car. Notwithstanding the above, if you are able to obtain a great deal why not go for it, personally like the Nissan 300ZX and Toyota Supra the SVX still looks great IMO to this day. But that's just my opinion:) But do not expect the reliability of a Subaru in a SVX, it is just not there.

Easier to just replace the axle, axle should cost no more than $120 plus one hour labor at the most.

What is the labor involved in changing a timing belt tensioner, is there any risk in putting it off or is this something that needs to be done immediately.

If anyone has a carfax subscription I was wondering if they would do me a favor and run the attached vin. I am in the market for another soobie and need to make sure that I have covered all the angles. Thanks in advance for the courtesy.

Dumb question yes I know but please help me out, getting a misfire code read on cylinder number 4 on my 1996 2.5L Legacy wagon. Trying to isolate the issue but dont know where it is:)

I have a dent in the rear side door of my soobie as a result of NYC parking, the dent is not that deep no paint wear or scratches. I feel that I can pop it back out from the inside if I can some how figure out how to remove the inner door cover to expose the metal. But I was wondering how effect a suction cup dent puller would be. Has anyone had any luck with them here?

I wouldn't mind that at all the only issue is that when I spoke to my insurance company about wanting to keep the car I was told that they would deduct 500 dollars from the FMV since that is what they would receive from a salvage yard. I have yet to decide, will let you guys know.

Thanks for the advice, upon further investigation after my posting, I realized that as a result of the impact the area where the timing belt is held (yes I know I am by no means a mechanice I apologize on my terminology), is exposed and the timing belt itself is in bad shape. I have decided to just cut my losses now and to pick up another soobie. So if anyone has a 2000+ model for sale in the NYC metro area let me know

My father got inot a little fender bender with the 1997 subaru outback, in all honesty the damage does not look that bad, however the insurance is considering it a total loss, rather than junk it I am going to try to get it back on the road however the car wont start from a result of the accidnet it turns over but no start. I decided to check for codes and came up with P0340, which is a cam sensor malfunction circuit. My question is could this code be a result from the accidnet and if so is this error code a simple sensor replacement or something more major. Thanks in advance.

I have a 1997 OBW (181K miles), on some occasions when I am driving and slow down to make a right or left turn, the car seems to suddenly lose power and to hesitate, when this happens I floor the gas pedal and the rpms wont go up as if the car is running out of gas, but then after perhaps 5-10 seconds the car gains full power again drives fine. On a side note the CEL is on giving an error code of P0325 (Knock Sensor), so I am awaiting for this part in the mail, could this be a cause? If so I dont understand the correlation between what is happening and the knock sensor, any suggestions are appreciated, thanks in advance.

On my 96 LSI wagon I am getting intermitant starting issues, here is the deal, when I go to start the car I turn the key but nothing happens as if the car has no juice, but the radio and everything works fine, then I go to turn the key again and the car starts and runs fine. I never thought anything of it but it seems to be getting worse, now I have to turn the key 3 or 4x before I get a response from the car to start. I am thinking it might be corroded battery connectors or signs of a starter going bad? I have no CEL on, any thoughts or input is appreciated..Thanks in advance.

The other day I was vacuming out my 1997 OBW, while I was in the cargo area and the wagon door was in the raised position, it suddenly fell on my head almost knocking me out. The hydraulic rod on the right hand side had fallen off. I picked up the rod (or whatever the proper name is) and put it back into place with no problems but yesterday again it fell out of place and the door almost taking my head off. So my question, is there a trick to make this rod stay in place? The rod seems to be functioning fine but it just wont stay put, am I missing a part? Logic would tell me that this part would need to be screwed in or something but I don't notice that on the other side, and it is holding in fine. Any thoughts would help, thanks in advanced..

Well I did not know about the fuel cut off, until one day I was driving from NYC to Michigan. At some point in time on I-80 I got the car to hit 115 and then suddenly felt a jerk and saw my rpms drop and immediately turned on my hazards thinking that the car died. Then once the car hit 110 I regained full power. So my experience is that you will definitely know when the fuel cut off engages, b/c the sudden loss of power and jerk by the car is real obvious and scary to a point.

I have owned several subaru wagons, and have always been a loyal owner. But now I am looking for a nice upgrade, and am thinking about the WRX STI. But I really have no idea what things to look for. Is this car plagued by any problems such as the SVX's are or the 96-99 wagons?

On my dads 1985 Subaru it had a similar problem, from what I re-call it had something to do with the A/C hoses, dunno but might be worth checking out?

On my 96 Legacy LSI Wagon my brakes are rock solid, very responsive having no issues with them. However on my 97 OBW the brake pedal seems to be very soft compared to the 96 Legacy and really not as responsive i.e taking longer to stop or having to hit the pedal harder. Both cars have fairly new pads, as I had a shop change them both relatively at the same time, so I do not think it is the pads. Do you guys have any suggestions why the barke pedal feels soo different on these tow cars? If it matters my Legacy just hit 100k and my OBW just hit 179k. Any ideas are appreciated thanks!!