suby85

Finally gat to talk to my local independant Subaru machanic who has been working wonders with Subaru's for years. He confermed that it is the cat and it is the front cat due to it doing most of the work. As far as the superstock coil doing nothing, I beg to differ with you. After replacing the coil, there was a significant differance in performance and stoped the pinging and knocking. Also as far as burning out the ignition module, I also asked about that, and he informed me that it was fine and would do no damage. The only thing it might do is make me replace my cap and rotor more often.

Trust me, I don't want to replace the cat if I don't have to. All I want is for the car to pass DEQ. So far the things I have done are, replace the injector with the one out of my 94 engene (I don't know if it factory or not due to the PO replaced it be fore I bought the car), removed the clutch fan and rewired the electric fan, replaced the coil with an accel superstock, put in NGK plugs the are one step hoter than OEM's, and replaced the muffler with a turbo muffler. The engene still ping and knoks slitly when going up steep hills, but not real bad. I always thought that was from running to rich, but was not sure what was causing it. Is there anyway to check the O2 sensor? I have talked to two other friends that are mechanics and they both say it sounds mor like the O2 sensor. They said it wouldn't matter how hot or cold the engene was, if it was going bad it would make it run rich.

when I took it through DEQ, I disconected the electric fan and I don't have a clutch fan. The engene temp got up to nearly the red from having to sit for so long. I figured the temp sensor had to be working to get that reading, and the cat had to have gotten pretty warm.

OOP's, sorry. I guess no one can read minds. 1994 SPFI Loyale with 92 engene and ECU also SPFI. 1st idle HC - 411 and CO - 2.6246, 2nd idle HC - 396 and CO - 3.0051. HC should be 220 or less and CO should be 1. The reason for thinkign I need a new cat was taking it to a shop that the I tow cars into all the time and we get free labor and parts at wholesale. I had them check it out and they said everything checks out fine so it has to be the cat. I was told by the guy at DEQ that it was running to rich, so I put an Accell Superstock coil in and replaced the Bosch Platnum plugs with one step hoter NGK's. These readings were after doing these changes. The only thing I could think of that would stillmake it run rich was a bad O2 sensor, but the guys at the shop said it was still good. I am stumped as to what Ishould do, that is why I am posting.

I need to replace my cat so I can pass DEQ and get new tags. The problem is what section is the cat. The front were the two pipes meet is considered the front converter and the second section is considered the rear converter. Which one is the actual cat converter?

Went out recheck everything, and now I feel dumb....It all boiled down to one of the EGR silanoid vacume lines was unhooked. The engene runs great now.

Thanks for letting me know what the flashes mean, now I just need to know why an engene that just past imisions through DEQ want start after transplanting it into another loyale just 2 years newer.

I have a 92 and 94 loyale. The 94 is my DD and the 92 is a parts car. I just lost the motor in the 94 so I swaped out the motor from the 92. When I try to start it, it will start then immediatly die like it is out of fuel. I swaped out fuel injectors because the one out of my 94 was brand new. I tried playing with the throtle but no change. I finally checked the to see what code the ECU would give me and it flashes 5 quick flashes and that is it. can someone please give me an idea as to what the code means and what I could be doing wrong.

Successful at last…used the Speedo internals from the XT6 with the Speedo gears from the Loyale. Works great, no more bounce in the Speedo. I even kept the original odometer.

Thats what I thought, but had to ask sence I had the XT6 half parted out and the gage cluster was just sitting there.

Will the gage cluster out of an 88 XT6 work in a 94 Loyale. The XT6 cluster speedo goes to 140mph and the loyale goes to 130 and the XT6 cluster has the volt and oil pressure gages and the loyel doesn't. other than that, they look the same. the reason I am asking, is my loyale speedy does not work, and the XT6 does.

thats what I thought, but I just wanted to maked sure. Thank you...

I took my coil out to test the it, and forgot which way it came out. I was wondering which wires go to the positive and which wires go to the negitive.

Thank you all for your feed back, you all have helped me make up my mind. I will stick with the Hitachi anf just rebuild it, well you know what I mean. The only other ? I have, is can I still use the Accel Super Stock Coil: Primary Resist 1.2 Ohms Secondary 8.9 K Ohms; Turn Ratio 100:1; Max Voltage 42000v wwiith the Hitachi disty?

Sorry for double posting, but this is the one question I need answered. If anyone knows, PLEASE let me know.

I bought the car used, and it suposedly had a replacment motor from over seas. I don't know what it came out of, but it was only supose to have around 45000 miles on it. About two mounths after buying it, it blew a head gasket. The car is a 1985 GL wagon 4WD. I don't know if it had a feed back carb or not, but it has the same Hitachi carb as the 1985 GL Wagon 4WD that I am driving now it has the Hitachi disty on it. The carbs have the same wires and vacume lines. The wires are for the choke and anti deisel silanoid. As far as being sure the dist is a Nippon, it says Nippondenso 22100AA102 100291-1090. I have also bought the cap and rotors for both at different times and the other disty is deffenitly a Hitachi. The Hitachi cap and rotor is the only one that fits it.

I have a 1985 GL Wagon EA82. I am curently useing the Hitachi which has only one vacume line for the advance. If I change over to the Nippon, it has two vacume ports on the advance. Anyone know which one is which, and were the second one goes.

I was thinking of runing an Accel Super Stock Coil: Primary Resist 1.2 Ohms Secondary 8.9 K Ohms; Turn Ratio 100:1; Max Voltage 42000v; Yellow.

I have two distributors, one Hitachi and one Nippon-Denso. Both of them are out of 1985 GL Wagons EA82. I was wondering wich one I should use. I am curently useing the Hitachi which has only one vacume line for the advance. If I change over to the Nippon, it has two vacume prts on the advance. anyone know which one is which, and were the second one goes.

After reading all of the posts, I am still a little confused. All I need to know, is if it is possable to turn my 1985 GL wagon D/R 5speed 3.9 non LSD into a 4.11 or 4.44 LSD. I already know it is possable for the rear diff. If it is possable for the front, can you tell me what parts I will need and from what model of Sub., and what years.

I will be putting a 4/3 lift on my 85 GL Wagon, and will be running 27" super swampers. I found some XD Series rims that I like but don't know if they will fit. I have already done the 5 lug conversion from a 88' XT6. So what I need to know is, the lug mesurements 5X?, and what if 4.5" back spacing is ok or should I stick with 3.5" back spacing.

As far as the weird voltage readings, there were two problems. #1 for some reason #3 plug wire was arking accross to the valve cover vent hose....don't understand that one at all! #2 I had the wires switched in the T plug that gose to the alt., had them out to fix the T plug....lol:-\ as far as the stop lamp warning light.... the resistor on the passenger tail light died, replaced it, stop lamp went out.

As many people that visit this site, someone has to have some ideas......PLEASE

I she is getting smoke out the tail pipe, sounds to me like bad rings or valve seals. If the car is lacking power, I would say blow by at the rings, if good power, valve seals. I am just guesing from my trials and errors.

Do you know anything more about the car?, like what kind of sounds its making, or not making. Will it turn over, if so, is it reading any oil pressure at all? Are there any signs of leakage, like puddles, drips, or dried oil on the engine?