mid-knight

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.barneybrothers.com/LiftedBaja.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.barneybrothers.com/&h=107&w=142&sz=7&tbnid=N2JVKyTvjnbL0M:&tbnh=66&tbnw=88&hl=en&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlifted%2Bsubaru%2Bbaja%26svnum%3D100%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26safe%3Doff Google is a wonderful thing. :cool:

Yup, I plan on going to have a conversation with a guy here i have known for some time today, i still would like to do the work myself though, im not used to anyone touching my cars but me. I hope i can get to the bottom of this issue so i can finally enjoy the car without being paranoid every time i snap the throttle down...thanks much again guys.

Thanks guys, The last plate i ordered from subaru myself for those wonderful "mechanics" to put in, as to wether or not thay did or not is a different issue, this time its going to be at my hand, as for the std trans, this is most certianly going to happen at some point, i dont have the funds for the kit nor a complete car to strip as of yet so shes going to get her last plate for now, im picking up a smashed (drivers side door) svx in a couple of weeks guys so im prob going to sell stuff from it, just giving heads up ahead of time. As for mods, shy of the under drive pully and an k&n in box (baffel removed), nothing else at this point.

I bought the car in baltimore I live in new haven CT<since i knew the tranny was bad buyin it on ebay i had aamco pick it up, rebuild it there so i can drive her back, turns out the pinion gear was pushed away from the ring gear after there was a set of teeh that broke off and cracked the diff housing, so not only did i pay for the rebuild but the case and diff/ring/and pinion (dont even ask about cost, the body likes to forget pain), and of course i knew of the known tranny issues with them prior, so im thinking that its just the normal rebuild. I went to school for automotive, but hated the automatic trannys, not my line of great exposure, so im not familiar to what to look for into this, im going to pull the engine (easier from top than bottom) to get to all this, that tranny is damn huge, if i had my way ( $ ) she would be changed to stick if i could, that would make her perfect. No tranny mount nor engine mount issues from the time i bought her (2 summers ago), and the torgue converter was replaced twice, once from the begining, then "supposedly" the 2nd flex went and the screws were stripped from the first aamco in baltimore so the one here replaced it again.

Hay guys, I have the 92 svx, I have been going thru flex plates since the aamco transmissions first rebuilt the trans (they suck by the way) I'm going on my 3rd now, this last one came from subaru (so i was told), it seems its been cracking on my snatching on the car, it takes a bit of time but non the less....Is there something i dont know about this issue, is it common by any means, im going to replace this one my self, any input on this issue? When it starts, i hear the damn thing hitting the bell housing on full throttle and as time goes on, it gets worse and requires less to start, the 1st one went all together with and left me on the highway. Can they be reinforced? OH! im also leaking gear oil as well<not sure if its from the input shaft though,im suspect considering the issue at hand.

Do you guys know of it being done and what is envolved with it, both standard and AWD.Im considering it after redoing the motor in the wagon (GL10) and finding out there is piston slap to one of the cylinders, never heard the motor run i used the blovk from,and i cant seem to get the turbo boosted, nothin ive done works....new route needed, stress.

I have Had my 92 SVX up too 150 twice, during 2 races on 91, the first was racing a supped up GTI jetta, and the other was 3 motorcycles who promted me first, not only were they surprised (then asking what kind of car- always too follow by many) but they never got in front of me, dipping at 150 across 3 and 4 lanes is not easy i guess for 2 wheelers!

Shes a 92, odd thing is it comes in and out, ill start it and if its on it will be on till it decides not to, no rime or reason, then off and will be off till when ever, sometimes it will suddenly come back while driveing, the clock goes out when the controls are out as well, What component is shared involving power between the 2 that would cause this issue? all fuses are ok and the 2 relays near the blower are not power controling to the dash (just controls the blower its self), I dont have a wireing schematic for the controls (chilton book sucks).

Not likely, This would not fit your have a boost of power all of a sudden, if that were the case, you would never get it at all....

I thank you guys for your help, if I get any more stress from it, ill post a cry for help before i put my head into the fender well to hide....

you know thats funny you are the first person to give me a response, my calling subaru to talk to my guys there didnt know, both are leading techs there and thought i was reading it wrong (so offended as I was knowing im NOT insane, i used my treo 650 to video record it !:cool:, the injector was cycling along with the fuel pump, it seems the "new" computer was the fix for at least that, waiting to see its behavior on shutting down, has not done it yet, thanks on the "5" ?

I have an MPFI the SPFI is an ongoing isse i have with a friends car, no codes (except for a 5, which seems to be a ghost code no one knows about) replaced fuel pump, and injector, fuel is coming from the throttle body, and computer replaced today but i dont like how she started up, I have noticed the tach jumping on an intermittant basis, im focusing there, but confused as to why no code (and yes the "5" was being issued on both computers) if there was at any point, a disruption in the signal from the sensor.

is it possible to use one from a MPFI to the SPFI?

Is it possible for a distributer (on its way out...jumping tach) to cause a shut off and no start intermittant issue?

Thanks guys Im working on both things now, much appreciated, I have a ? about the "5th injector" i keep seeing on guys cars, how do you control that signal, when the computers output is set for a set of 4 injectors?

I can understand that, I just resealed an engine for mine from the block out, its not fun "in" the car.....im just curious as to why thats goin on with yours, I had a broken bolt on mine and the ultra grey held up fine, if it was a pressure issue, i would think you would have that issue in more areas than the pan (god forbid the rear main) mabye theres something up with the pan?, was it doing this as well before you went to change it?....its funny i used to be a mechanic too at subby of all places

I never use the cork gaskets espc for the oil pan, I think they suck, espc cleaning, I use the ultra-grey rtv, have always used it no "cut" gasket needed, you just need to make sure its clean on both sides though, brake clean (not carb) works wonders, leaves no residue, my buddy at suby told me they dont use the gaskets anymore, its the same stuff used on the cam cases.

How are you guys boosting the turbos of the EA82T?, is there other options shy of buying a boost controller, I tryed to place a tube inline to the waste gate with a hole drilled into it to hinder the amount/time of the gate opening but it seems still I have no real boost, thought it was the turbo, but I have 3, replaced it, same deal, she drives fine, no driveablility issues (mabye going from the svx to this is not good for expectations) just not strong at all.

lack of sleep........this is a digi dash no gauge.

Thanks ross, It seems I only have one wire down there, i dont seem to remember 2....stress...ill work on this today to trace and locate.

OK I have a ?, what exactly is the other "sender/sensor" on the oil pump for since ive never attaced anything to it, the light goes out when i put the wire on this sensor and there IS oil going thru the filter, cracked it to make sure......

hay, I have been looking for a brush guard and lift kit for the rx wagon im working on, if the engine is ok ( to find out in a couple of days hopefully) those 2 things most definitly, I also want something I saw on a austrailian wagon, a rack for the back gate for the spare, like a suv, nice....room for the IC!

Hay ross, the first engine started and ran fine till i heard the noise at the area of the pump, this engine started quick and steady like it was running for years, shy of the lifters that need to be charged from running ( I know that was going to happen when I saw them taking the moter apart, that one was also sitting for about 2 years), other than that shes runs fine, do you know of a way to test the sensor/switch at the pump?

I had a recient isse with a motor that I rebuilt over a year ago that sat on the floor, after running it for the first time for a couple of days (idle not driving) later, the oil light came on, It seems the disk part of the oil pump siezed and wiped the flat spot on the shaft, I chose to rebuild another for fear of that hole being damaged, I just started her up and I have an oil light! im not sure why at this point but out of trama i only let her run for a few min to see if it would go out, nada, I did lube all parts with pressure engine grease, including the pump, Ive never had this issue before......ideas guys?!?

I have had the block (1.8 T) tapped out and one hole fixed with subarus time-cert, there are 2 bolts one on each head that is getting more torque from me to turn to tighten then the others, the others cause the torque wrench to click with no problem these 2 on the other hand are not clicking but again, are requireing more torque to turn, yes there in there right places on the head for location and i cleaned all bolts buy hand and oiled them, any ideas why guys?