Subarunation 713

I would agree with this statement. By in large Subaru owners tend to be maitnenance minded folks. We are not talking about disposable car owners here and specifically not on this group. I still like and will drive Subarus so I am not bashing Subaru. Has there been any coralation (sp) between headgasket failures and length or time of average trip? My mother's 40 minute 30 mile one way average trip allows her car, heads, block, pistons, transmission, exhaust and the whole "shabang" to get completely up to operating temp and then remain there for an extended period of time. 97 OBW with phase I 2.5, 140,000 miles, and knock on wood, no problems. I realize this is a HUGE control group of 1! :-) So, those with headgsket failures do you have a long or short commute? Or has this been debunked and debated ad nauseum? Just curious. Greg

Well the day came for me to say thank you and good by to a true warrior. The OEM battery in our 96 OBW had to be replaced. The car was manufactured 12-95 so the battery was made right in that time frame too. I took good care of it. I made sure fluid levels were up and the posts were clean. I keep anti-corrosion felt discs on the posts and a penny somewhere on the top to be a magnet for stray corrosion. The car is an outdoor car year round. We have a block warmer and we use it when it gets below 20 degrees (my wife is not fond of cold and she uses the heated seat until it is about 40 degrees). Winter lows can be around 0 degrees (or lower for short stretches) and summer highs of 85 degrees (or higher for short stretches). I know a new battery is only $50 to $60 (2 tanks of gas) but making that one last was a mission for me. When I replaced the battery it still turned the car over and started but it was slow. The battery is survived by its lifetime partner the 1996 Outback with 2.2 engine and 5-speed transmission. Preceding it in death is a knock sensor, catalytic converter (rusted flange) and routine maintenance items such as belts, seals and tires. In leu of flowers donations can be made to the USMB. The Warrior will be interred at AutoZone or wherever recycled batteries are accepted. Just as in life the battery wishes to give by living out it's after years as the components of another battery.

I posted this question back in Feb. Some said yes, some said no. The factory manual said no per the sevice manager at the dealer. If our engines go te hell we can both blame ShawnW! :-) (just kidding ShawnW)

wasn't trying to be foul. I guess the filter doesn't like the spelling of the company's name :-)

The stock radio SHOULD be a Pannasonic P114. The manufacturer will be Matsu************a. Unfortunately the model number is not the same as the P114 on the cassette flap. For instance, the Pannasonic P117 made by Matsu************a has a model number of 86201AC430. Ain't nothin' ever easy! However, after checking their web site, the radio in the top picture is the one you have. If they REALLY need to know, the model number is on the bottom of the radio. It will take you 20 minutes to pull it out. You will need a standard length phillips and a stubby phllips.Good luck, Greg

I don't know what part of Chicago you are in but if you are on the south side and are willinng to drive a couple of miles there is an OUTSTANDING independent shop in New Buffalo Michigan, Classic Imports. They are 10 minutes up US 12 from Michigan City. Not cheap, but they only like to do things the right way. Classic Imports, Inc. 18777 West US 12 New Buffalo, MI 49117, Mikail Pinette pH: 269-469-2007 Fx: 269-469-6271 Em: classicimports@triton.net

I jacked the engine WAY up so I could get a good square "grip" on the head of the bolt. The bolts on my 97 were TIGHT too but they came off without stripping. I used a breaker bar so there was less of a distance between the bold head and the right angle of the handle. If that fails, get out my favorite tool....the gas wrench!! :-)

$100? get it! The headgaskets can be changed with the engine in the car. Do a compression test, it sounds like you might have issues other than gaskets with the smoking. If the compression/leakdown test is OK than slap new headgaskets in there and drive cheap! If it is an engine, some of the you-pull-it yards down by my parents in eastern PA have Legacys with running engines you can pull for $75 but you mentioned space.... Good luck, Greg

I could live with it if it was marketing but it isn't marketing. According to AutoWeek it was to skirt the need to get better mileage with the H6 and Turbo as Outback_97 has mentioned. Subaru made it a truck so it would not be included in CAFE and for that I stick with my "Shame on Subaru". I still like and drive my Subarus and will for years to come but I just expect better, thats all.Greg

How many french fries can it hold? :-)

I thought Subaru was acting too much like one of it's minority partners, GM, when they pulled this stunt. Subaru increased the ground clearence and called your wagon a truck so as not to be forced to get better mileage as Outback 97 mentioned. I still think Subaru should be ashamed. By and large Subaru owners "cling closely to trees" if not all out "tree huggers". GM doesn't have the intellectual muscle to get better mileage so they cling to loopholes. I guess the bean counters at GM showed Subaru the dark side and the bean counters at Subaru liked it! Enjoy your Outback wagon, er, I mean your Outback truck.Greg

see the few answers I found to my own questions: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34684

Hi Rachel,Is your car a legacy L or a Legacy Brighton? If it is a Legacy L the car comes from the factory with a Pannasonic P114 (this is marked on the little flap where you put the cassette tape in) and it has 1 plug for all of the power and all of the speakers. Check out the photos on this auction site to get an idea what the back of your radio looks like. If you have a P114 then yours looks like the radio on top in the 2 pictures with the radio and CD player together. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7970018281&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT Then there is the antenna connection.The round plug in is for an add on CD player. As already mentioned see if the stations change with the radio on. Does the clock still work? If the clock still works and the stations change, try playing a cassette. If the tape goes in but no sound, the clock works and the stations change then the internal amp is probably gone. If the clock works, the cassete player plays and the stations change but there is no sound from the radio then the antenna connection has come loose. If your radio is shot I have a P114 radio I would sell you for $15 plus actual shipping (or bid on the CD player). You can also do a search on this site to see what CD players people have put in their cars and whether they like them and how well they fit. Good luck, Greg

Search some previous posts. There is no real need to replace head bolts. Some swear you do, others swear you do not. The factory manual does not require the replacing of headbolts. Greg

If you have a Panasonic P114 I will sell you the whole unit for $15 + actual shipping. I still have mine from when I put in the CD player. In an act of shameless self promotion consider my ebay item:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7969044106&indexURL=5#ebayphotohostingGreg

Remember that in emission inspection is a record. Putting tags on your car is a record. Putting tags on your car in a different state is a record and some dealership service is a record. A record is not a bad thing, it is simply a record. Now having a record that says "salvage loss" is bad! :-)Greg

A few weeks back I posted a question as to why dealers charge more for service than good independents. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31512&highlight=dealers+charge Last week I had the chance to talk to a retired Ford dealer. Here are some things to consider as to why dealers charge more for service (these will not be true in EVERY instance but is a good rule of thumb). Real estate. Compare the value of the real estate. This is a major reason. The dealer should be positioned in a high visibility high $$ area, the independent is usually not on the big buck main drag. Not all of the acreage is service but look at parking for service vs. parking for the independent. The dealer needs to be able to park at least 30 cars and trucks, the independent can park as few as 5? 7? but you get the idea. Warranty repairs. The independent is not bogged down with warranty repairs. This can be costly if the car is in the shop and a factory tech must come out. Of course the shop is reimbursed for some of the cost but not for all of the lost opportunity that the bay or tech could have turned out. By the time this same item shows up at the independent enough dealerships will have stumbled across the problem that All Data will have something for the independent. Factory training. Sending techs for factory training (this was mentioned by someone in my first thread). Hopefully the shop will recoup this expense by being able to perform better. But once again the lost opportunity and travel. Parts inventory. Parts are more at the dealership because more parts must be inventoried and thus a higher individual parts cost (this is it's own kettle of fish) in the repair bill. Specialty tools. This was mentioned by someone in my first thread. Multiple brand dealerships have multiple specialty tools. By the time the independent needs them Snap-On, MAC, Matco and the like will have the tool for less (God bless competition). Also if the independent will not be able to recoup the cost of a tool (2 jobs a year or less or whatever breakeven is) than they can turn the job down. The dealer does not have that option. General overhead. Go to the dealership service area and look ALL around and go to the independent. A picture is worth a thousand words! I like my independent but I bring him coffee! He doesn't serve me :-) and we won't start on the bathroom! Employee overhead. Service writers, parts department employees, cashier, service manager, janitor, etc. The independent will have some but not all of this overhead. To give you an idea of employee costs it has been reported (but I haven't read it myself) that Ford Motor Company spends more on healthcare insurance than it does on steel! I was reminded of the value of dealer service. Think about this, how many of us put a higher value on a car maintained at the dealer? I know I do. I bought my 93 Legacy because Becker Subaru was able to produce all the service records for the car including oil changes and tire rotation from the day it was sold. I put a HUGE value on that. I would be impressed by a complete service record from an independent shop I know but what about a shop in Wherever USA that I don't know personally? I wasn't trying to dog dealerships or techs in my first thread and I am not trying to dog them now. There are great dealerships and there are dealerships that would make a criminal blush. There are great techs and there are crappy techs. Unfortunately for the dealerships most independent shops are former GREAT dealer techs. I am sure there are more reasons and somebody could expound on each point for pages and pages but I thought I would share what I learned. I thank God I have the skills and tools to do what I can on my own cars regardless of dealerships or independents. It saves me $$$ and it's fun! Greg

I can forward you the CARFAX report when I get home but I will need your email. Greg

For what it is worth, I have the window sticker for my 99 Legacy L 30th Anniversary Sedan 2.2 with a 5 speed and the suggested retail was $20,690! Think about it, nearly 21 grand for a Legacy sedan with the small engine and a 5 speed! Now 99 is 7 "car years" ago so $31,000 doesn't sound too bad. Just because they ask that price doesn't mean you will pay that price. Here is what buying used with 2,400 miles saves you: 2005 Subaru Legacy Outback2.5I Silver 2,401 $22,595 (this is from Becker Subaru's web site in Allentown PA. Becker is the largest or in the top 3 in sales on the east coast, varies from year to year) I don't guess there is a huge demand for AWD cars in Ft. Worth so the buying power of the dealer may be less? You raise a good point though, 31 grand for a Legacy is a chunk of change. Are they pricing themselves out of the market? Only time will tell (how is that for a definitive answer)! Greg

As mentioned the plate on the door pillar will tell you but if is damaged or gone the 10th digit of the VIN# is you year identifier:F=85 G=86 H=87 J=88 K=89 L=90 M=91 N=92 P=93 R=94 S=94 T=96 V=97 W=98 X=99 Y=00 1=01 2=02 3=03 4=04 5=05 6=06 First digit J=Japan 1=US 3=Mexico 4=US the 13th digit...just kidding, I haven't a clue! I am not Rain Man :-)

I have seen this advice before but none of the manuals say to do it this way. The risk of getting air into the system is much greater this way and trying to get it out is a bugger. I know, I followed this advice and after 2 days I am still trying to get the air out of the system. I will not do it this way again. I will do it the other way and keep bleeding the brakes until the fluid in the resovoir is clear. It will eliminate all air and moisture and leave the pedal firm.

I am going to put Yokohama Avid TRZs on our 96 OBW tomorrow. I will let you know what we think after a couple of weeks. I have POS Bridgstone Dueller tires on it now. They SUCK! I had Yokohama Avid T4s on my 93 Legacy wagon. They were great tires although a little noisy (radio was louder). The TRZs are $10 more per tire but an 80,000 mile vs the 60,000 for the T4s. Curious to see how they work.

Well Dresch thanks for the support and positive outlook. However I have received such "helpful" information in the past and I wasn't real anxious to get it again. It frustrates me as I took pictures of everythinng as it came apart and laid everything in the back of the stationwagon in order of it's removal. Never thought to look at the head gaskets though. Maybe I will break down and call 1st Subaru where I bought the parts. Thanks for your support, Greg aka Mr. Sometimesgoodwrench

I tried searching this and didn't have much luck so here is my question. To those who have replaced head gaskets or who know for SURE, which side of the gasket goes toward the block and which side goes towards the head? My gaskets have a 16 stamped on one side of them. To those who wish to respond with some sort of "helpful" statement like "put them back on the way they came off" or "why didn't you look when you took them off", PLEASE be nice to me! I am already kicking myself for not paying attention! :-) Thanks for the help, Greg