Subarunation 713

You miss the point. It was not "Whining", it was a question to find out what the costs of doing business are for the dealer that are ABOVE and BEYOND the costs for a good independent shop. I do have a manual, I do have tools and I do many of my own repairs. I will go someplace else as I always do save warranty and recall work. I am not whining I am just curious. I hope that is not a crime. Greg

Did anybody on this group buy Susie K's car? The orignal post garnished so much attention I was curious if there was a verdict on the engine. Just being nosy, Greg

Should slide in like jelly! Well maybe not that easy but they are the same motor with the same controls. I guess I should mention the obvious, as long as you are not changing transmissions 5 speed to auto or auto to 5 speed. Others have used special tools to do this job. Their tool of choice has been a case of their favorite beverage! Good luck, Greg

Ahhh....PENDOT salt, the bodyman's BEST friend! Do they use cinders west of the Sesquhanna along with the salt? It is funny, when I am traveling I-80 east bound accross Ohio going back to mom and pops in Schuykill County and you have had snow or ice in PA, the cars going west bound out of PA are all white with salt. By the time I get to the weather, the roads are in pretty good shape but then and my car is solid salt too.

Listen, we are talking 1.5 miles! that is only 7,920 feet! Yeah, I know it is not the best but to tell someone their AWD system is TOAST is over kill. I have a 96 wagon. Take a look at the 96 Legacy owners manual and you will see you CAN tow with the AWD being disabled if you don't exceed a certain distance or speed. Perhaps the new ones are different but look at the owners manual for a 96. Viscous coupling or clutch pack or dry disc or whatever, 1.5 miles will not kill it or glaze it or burn it up. Did you ever ride your clutch when you were in 3rd gear thinking it was 1st? I have and I could even smell it. BTW the clutch was still good when the car was sold at 205,000. Was towing it 2 wheels the best. Heck no! I don't argue that. But if our Subarus are such PANSY rump roast cars that they cant take some abuse once in a great while I better sell my 2 and buy a Daweo :-) So far my cars have taken some abuse and keep on ticking! Greg

Linda, I think every Chicken Little replied to your post. Don't worry, the sky has not fallen. Even though having all 4 wheels off of the ground is the ideal way and putting a fuse in the AWD to disable the rear wheels is the 2nd best way, you did go only a MILE AND A HALF. Your all wheel drive system is NOT toast. There is no way for the viscous coupling to get that hot that quick unless he towed you at 80mph. Parts are not going to fall off of your car, cats and dogs won't be sleeping together, the Steelers will still loose to New England (couldn't resist :-) ) and the world will not come to an end. You dodged a bullet but learned a good lesson. I am sure next time you will insist on a flatbed. In the event you still feel uneasy drop a note to AAA and the tow truck company so you will have documentation. Good Luck, Greg btw-The Steelers are my favorite AFC team even though I grew up east of the Sesquhanna River!

Ouch! It is hard to hear about our beloved Subarus not living up to the high standards we hold them to based upon our positive experiences. Nobody wnats to hear that their kid is a problem in the classroom or their dog dug up the neighbors flowers but it does happen. How did they come to the conclusion 2 pistons needed replacing? That is ODD! As for the throwout bearing, even if you did drive like crap (not saying you do, saying if) you couldn't kill one in 19,000 miles (33,000 total miles). It sounds like "GMitous" is seeping into Fuji/Subaru. Unfortunately we, the auto buying public, buy horsepower but drive torque. All this crap in the cars to squeeze 3hp here and 2hp there add up to less reliability. Ask a gen 1 2.2 Legacy owner and they will have less problems on a 12 year old car than some owners do on a 12 month old car. I know you are pissed, and rightfuly so, but let us know what they find out. Like they said on Hew Haw, "If it wern't fer bad luck, Id have no luck at all" Greg

I went to Team Subaru Suziki Nissan in South Bend, that is the nearest dealer to me as there is nothing in St Joe/Benton Harbor. For keys, I go to a good hardware store.Greg

The Bosch garage, Classic Imports in New Buffalo, MI, has certificates from Subaru factory training. In my original post I didn't care what dealer Subaru or Ford they both are expensive. Thanks for the good input, some good points were brought up. When I think of the two garages we go to when the job is to complex for me 1 is Dave. Just Dave, no service writer, no parts manager, no service manager, no clerks, no 26,742 square mile parking lot to plow, just Dave oh yeah and REALLY cheap. 2 is Classic Imports, Owner who still turns a wrench, his wife to do the books, a service manager/writer and the rest are techs who are generating income. When I think of my visit to Team Suzuki-Nissan-Subaru in South Bend on Friday there were 5 people behind the counter, FIVE! and all were overhead (oh yeah and 2 techs wandering around). I hope they were staffed for the early morning, lunch and late afternoon rush times but at 2:30PM, dead time. Does a dealer get reimbursed for warranty work at normal shop rate or is the repair/recall a flat rate?

First of all, I am not upset, I am *REALLY* curious. I don't know what their shop rate is, it matters not, it is the cost of the job vs the cost of the job at a highly skilled Bosch garage. I too try to do most of my own work. If it is something above my skill level I will pay well to have it done. I do most of my own repairs for 2 reasons, first, I am CHEAP, second I am PICKY. Paying good money to have somebody else do my repair work falls right in line with my cheap side. How? I know it is done perfect and the overall value is cheap, the cheapest price can be expensive. As far as the legal mumbo jumbo, I don't know of any timing belt issue that made it to a jury trial as that would be small claims court in Indiana and Michigan where I get service. But never underestimate a hungry and broke lawyer :-) Where are our dealer people? Greg

But so do the techs at my local Bosch shop. They have as many if not more certificates on the wall as the dealer. But in fairness we can list one item as to why they cost more: 1-Factory Training of Technicians

I am not trying to start an "I hate the dealer because of blah, blah, blah" thread. I seriously wonder what it is that drives dealer service prices so high. Do we have anybody that currently works at a dealer (any dealer, just not Subaru) or has worked for one? Is overhead at a dealership really that high? I was in for the air mass meter recall on my 99 Legacy sedan. I was being sold HARD and by that I mean everything short of guns :-) by the service writer, service manager and the mechanic to get my timing belt changed and front main seal changed (in fairness they do need it and I will replace them along with cam seals, oil pump and water pump in April) But $603 to do a timing belt and front main seal. That allows them $100 for parts and $500 for labor. Rather than scream RIP OFF, ROBBERS or THIEF I thought I would ask what really makes the prices so high. What are the costs? Why more at a dealeship than at a "boutique" independent shop? I am anxious to hear from you dealer people, Greg

I have a 96 OBW and a 99 sedan. The back seat is a little different but the carpet looks the same. If there is a difference it is how the carpet would tuck under the rear seat that folds front on the wagon vs a seat that doesn't move in the sedan. My fronts look identical. Good luck, Greg

This place up in DC:http://www.aandrautoparts.com/ They have a 99 2.5 that was in a fire. They didn't have a price listed but it is probably a good long block at a decent. All of the other items are fine on you car I imagine. The ol 2.2 switch is also a great idea. BTW-you still got a DEAL on this car. Don't give up! Good luck, Greg

delivery to d e r t o w address failed. I will try again, if it doesn't work anyplace else?

You should have it in a few minutes.good luck, Greg

You can get one from these guys for $100http://www.mandmautosalvage.com/ Hollander is showing an interchange from 97 to 99 but they are broken out by Outback, GT and L. Must be the different size wheel/tire. Perhaps you can just use the tach and use your own speedo? my 2 cents, Greg

I just sold my 93 wagon AWD 5 speed with 205,000 for $1000. It was a nice car. Maybe I am having separation anxiety!

Many have read the Susie K post. She did what the manufacturer said to do and when they said to do it. This raises a question: Who else has had catastrophic engine failure on a properly maintained engine? Her car was just serviced and then BAM! Anybody else? Any make, it happes to F1 engines and it happens to Mercedes engines and yes, even our hallowed Subaru engines. But how often? Just curious, Greg

I must be loosing my mind. I have a REAL nice 99 AWD Legacy 30th Anniversary Sedan (2.2) with sunroof, alloy wheels CD player and 110,000 less miles than my 93 AWD Legacy L wagon. But you know what, I was looking at ads today and wondering if I could unload my 99 and get back into a gen 1 legacy again without loosing my shirt. I was looking at AutoTrader and cars.com and everytime a nice green wagon was listed I would check it out and get a little teary eyed, well maybe not teary eyed but nostalgic :-) I changed the plugs on the 99 and it is amazing how much easier it was on the 93. It isn't like I couldn't get it done, it is still easy as pie on the 99 but the 93 was easier pie! I have no kids and no real need for a wagon, but I miss having a wagon! I feel like there should be more space in the sedan. Oh well, I guess the fool wants what the fool doesn't have....

Here is my 2 cents: http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?category=Shocks&scat=Shocks&scat=BootMount&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Legacy+GT+Legacy+GT+Sedan&autoModClar=&autoYear=1997&brand=all&perfcat=premium&x=76&y=6 Good luck, Greg

AutoZone sells rebuilt axles with new inner and outer boots and reconditioned CV joints for $60.00. You will need a breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench) and an axle nut socket you can borrow from Auto Zone. You will also need to drob the bottom of the ball joint off and a punch to knock out the pin that holds the axle at the transmission. If you follow a Haynes manual it really isn't too hard. If you go to a shop they will charge about $350 to $400 for this job. It would take you a Sunday afternoon and a little patience. You can go online and ask the group if you run into trouble as there is almost always one of us Subaru fanatics lurking around!Good luck, Greg btw-don't mess with a split boot, my 2 cents

OK, venturing into PURE speculation here is what I think could have happened. Once the engine is opened up we will know if my "psychic powers" are just that, POWER or pure stink! I think an idler bearing burnt up and threw the timing belt off. Second psychic guess er I mean predicition is one of the cam seals came loose and threw oil everywhere and made the timing belt jump off. I doubt there is anything wrong with the headgaskets but they will have to be replaced because there will be bent valves and the heads will have to come off to replace them. Once again this is "psychic speculation". Dangerous work, don't try it at home unless you are willing to make an a** out of yourself. You know, kinda like me! :-)Let us know, Greg

1999 was the last year for the 2.2 in the Legacy and 2001 was the last year for the 2.2 in the Impreza. Can't help you out with the 2.5 stuff, as far as I know Subaru only made a 2.2 everything else is/was an experiment :-) Greg

Not 1997. 1996 was the first year the Outback looked distinctly different than a Legacy L wagon. I know, I have one! :-)greg