bdecriscio

Thanks for all the info and posts regarding this, I guess being old school 10-40 oil mentality I was reluctant to look at the whole picture of synthetics lubricating better than conventional oils so the low viscosity numbers did concern me. My wifes 2013 camry also calls for and has 0-20 in it but I didn't quite feel comfortable with the 0-20 in a 2007 that called for 5-30. I will probably request 5-30 synthetic from the dealership for the free change and stick to that since it's what Subaru calls for. Thanks again for all the input

My daughter just bought a 2007 Impreza 2.5 with 78000 miles on a replaced engine installed by the Subaru dealership . The replacement engine was serviced with new fluids etc. The salesman told me they now use the 0-20 oil in all their cars even though the manual call for 5-30 I believe. They offer a free 5000 mile oil change (future) as well. Does this make sense or should She follow the manual instead of the dealership advice?

Add mine to the list, 99 Outback with 103 thousand miles. Very frustrating!

Hi all, Frankly a little embaressed to say I've got bad bearing in my engine. Confirmed by sound by two mechanics I trust. I know the best direction from here is a 2.2 replacement engine but short term if I put heavy oil in and drive conservativly, can I get by for days, weeks months? I did put a new filter on that quieted the initial knock and the overall bearing noise is not really very loud if that helps. I guess as I speak, maybe I was getting a dry start due to a bad filter that could have contributed to the issue. Thanks for all those who have posted. Bob

I,m sure you are right about the mechanic missing some common sense preventive mait. when he did the timing belt. I did know enough to have him replace the cam seals since I had leakage at the cover but it still leaks a bit there so I'm not 100% sure if they just failed as I'v read sometime happens or if he did it wrong or not at all(don't think so). I do have a leak at the rear but total all my leaks probably amount to about 1/2 quart between oil changes. Maybe some more input form the forum and then as Davebugs suggest do a lot of internal maintenance at one time. Thanks, Bob

Hi Olnick, I have had the timing belt replaced about 6000 miles ago but I'm pretty sure the mechanic didn't do what should have been done with the oil pump. As for the noise, I really am not sure what it is. I thought from my reading of other posts that my engine doesn't have adjustable valves so I went on the asumption it was piston slap. Again, not knowing that that behavior doesn't fit either. I guess a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. Anyway, to recap my sounds, pretty loud low tone knock on startup not really a chatter sound, goes away quite quickly, but this might be helpful, it does it even on a warm engine after setting for more than say 15 minutes. The car runs very well, very little engine noise when running or idleing, sometimes can hear a bit of what I would perceive as valve noise but not really noticable unless listening for it. As always I appreciate the forums elp with problems. If it is the oil pump issue, do I need to act quickly or is it more of an annoyance issue versus wear and tear? Thanks again, Bob

You guys may be right, My noise does go away almost instantly, at most a few seconds, I'll do some research on the oil pump/ backing screws. Any advice on that direction is also very appreciated. Bob

Great advise from all, thanks, Bob

Thanks for the replys, I guess I knew that the oil differences would't fix the problem but still not clear if the piston slap causes any damage and if so would any type of oil help mitigate the problem. I think I will change the filter as well since I'm thinking it's a possible dry start up scenario. Bob

My 99 Outback(103 thosand miles) has developed what I think is piston slap,knocking on startup, quiets down almost immediatly . Older posts seem to be a bit confusing. Some people suggest a lighter viscosity, other posts suggest heavier ones. I prefer 10-40 for all season here in central Pa. But that might be wrong for this condition. I'm assuming the lighter oil flows faster at startup and heavier oil would dampen or adhere better but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know which would help with piston slap. Any advice is appreciated. Bob

I have to agree with rooster2 about the relative value versus downside to using a fix in a can. I was one of the early 99 outback owners who had the delayed shifting problem and followed some earlier suggestions to do multiple fluid changes coupled with in my case Lucas transmission additive. After 15-20 months of perfect shifting, the short term benefits were obvious and after a transmission rebuild for a complety different(and unneccessary)reason, the tranny shop saw no internal problems with my transmission. P.S. The reason for the rebuild was because no one-3 tranny shops, an auto electric shop etc. could discover an internal loose wire in the dropping resistor. Bummer

You might also check the piston or pistons(my 99 has 2). I had a similar noise, checked the same stuff as you, found that one piston was hanging up due to a torn rubber boot and subsquent rust. Bob

I'm a little confused! On other posts regarding bad knock sensors, it seems that most posters say that a bad knock sensor code indicates just that, not a knock detected. My assumtion was that if you didn't have symptoms of knock or pinging then there was no retarding of timing, just that the risk was the computer would not compensate if you did have engine problems such as knock or pinging. Set me on the right path, I'll need to replace my sensor sooner rather than later. (not easy to do since someone previously put in an after market one with very little wire left for me to work with). Thanks, Bob

Sorry, I didn't mention the service manuel I was referring to was for a 2.5 DOHC for 1999 Outbacks, I don't know if the 2.2 has similar layout or not but on the 2.5 it's a large line, probably an inch diameter going into the idle air control valve off of the air intake assembly. Bob

Subaru service manuel says to use the Gm top engine cleaner to clean the idle air control solenoid valve.It says to pour it into the large air hose from the air filter housing going to the idle air valve whille holding throttle at 2000 rpms and wait for the white smoke to clear. What scared me off using anything through that tube was the next step which is to reset the TPS with Subaru scan tools. (beyond my talent/apprehension level) Bob

Hi all, I'm replacing a replacement knock sensor that was cut into the wiring harness on my 1999 Outback wagon. A mechanic friend has a sensor part #22060aa070 that is for 2000-2001 Outbacks. I need part #22060aa061 for my 99 according to the dealer. My question is since I have to cut out the connector anyway, not using the harness plug in connector, can I use the one I can get for a lot less or is there also a difference in the sensor itself? By the way, I've already cleaned, reposistioned etc. the old one to no avail. Thanks again, Bob

Thanks, Nipper, There's an interesting tip on End wrench in the archives regarding the exact issue for 1999 Outbacks like mine, cel and stored code for PO705 >insider info Code P0705, 1999 Legacy If you find a combination of the MIL on and Code P0705 stored in memory, proceed as follows: 1. Open all inhibitor switch circuit connections to be sure the contacts are clean and dry. 2. Plug those connections back together and make sure they are secure. 3. Insure that both the inhibitor switch and the shifter cable are properly adjusted. If you've found no problems so far, the fault is probably inside the TCU (Transmission Control Unit), so replace it. 5. I'm not sure how to adjust shifter cable but I'll do that next. Interesting that the next step is replace TCU rather than the switch itself. By the way, you gave me advice regarding my extreme shifting tranny a while back and cleaning the TPS did the trick(knock on wood) Thanks again, Bob

Does anybody know if the neutral saftey switch (inhibitor) is the same thing that's called a transmission range sensor through diagnostics codes(Autozone print out calls it that). If not, where is the transmission range sensor located, I've already disconnected and cleaned the NSS, no drivability or starting problems, just the check engine light and stored PO705 code. Thanks, Bob

I'll follow up and report back, on a lighter note, we are getting our first significant snow of the season here in central Pa. I'm not real happy but I swear my Subaru is smiling! Thanks for all the info Nipper, I do appreciate it. Bob

Good info, I'll go in that direction first. Two more questions though, Do you think the small knicks in the external wires of the dropping resistor are ok? I did tape them up and w.D.40 them and also how do you clean a TPS? I'm more than willing to buy a new one if that makes more sense. Bob

Yes, The tranny guy who ultimatly rebuilt and then (fixed?) the dropping resistor issue has been as helpful as I could expect, hooking up his scanner and searching for stored codes when I get there. Unfortunatly, I can't recreate the problem when he has the car and no codes show up on the memory. His software suggests some potential isues such as the throttle posistion sensor or the maf sensor etc. but that takes me back to square one. I know that there is some electrical issue versus an internal tran. problem but in the meantime I have a decent vehicle with a good engine and new subaru head gaskets and a rebuilt tranny but not a dependable vehicle. Bob

I agree 100% about transmission repair shops versus the dealer for these issues. However, The shift problems before and after the repairs are very real, sudden extreme shifts from I assume 4th down to 2nd for no reason and then extreme violent shifts upward till I restart or try to get to a scan tool to diagnose. Sometimes when it was the limp mode problem it would go away within a few miles of driving. I know the rebuild was unneccessary but in fairness to the tranny guys, I was dealing with a mechanic who had pulled and reinstalled the engine, damaged the pan(wouldn't admit it up front) so that led us on a goose chase for internal damage-there was none. Sorry for all the extra info being metered out but as I said, a long sad process to get where I am today. Bear with me, Bob

I ment replacement parts, Bob

Thanks for the reply Nipper. The issue that caused the rebuild was long and convuluted, basically it wasn't needed, The engine had been removed for a head gasket job, no tranny problems before. After being put back together, the tranny would only run in the limp mode. I took it to 3 trans. shops and an auto electric shop to determine if it was electrical or trans related. I also told all mechanics involved about the possibilty that the dropping resistor was the problem. Two shops put in a complete valve body with all new solenoids since the codes were showing a line pressure fault. When the problems remained, the last mechanic rebuilt it, still no success, then opened the dropping resistor to find it had been bent and separated one of the internal wires. This caused the frying of the solenoid and the continuing problem. A replacement dropping resistor and one more new solenoid finally corrected the issue. Anyway, from then(July) to now, it has been as mentioned, different and intermintent problems. I would love to find the solution w/o putting any more replacement problems than neccessary. Thanks again for any help. Bob

Hi all, 1999 Outback, 2.5 with 4eat, 100000 miles. I'm trying to diagnose an intermintent problem. The transmission was rebuilt last summer after failure to diagnose a loose wire inside the dropping resistor. It was replaced with a used one (the resistor)and all was fine for awhile. When the transmission started to go into limp mode again, I checked the small wires that are external coming out of the resistor and found them pretty nicked up from all the probes etc. When I taped them up, the problem went away for about 4 months. Now I have different problems, slamming hard up and down shifts w/o any codes, flashing or check engine lights. If I shut the engine off and restart, all is fine for a day or so. The tranny guy always goes to the effort to find any stored codes and diagnostics for other potential reasons but it gets confusing as to whether it might be tps or maf sensor or moisture etc. I'm thinking It probably is the dropping resistor but I'm asking for any input before replacing it. Also, some members recommend disconnecting it permanantly. Any opinions on that? Will it hurt anything to do that? If I do disconnect and the problem goes away is that a logical conclusion? ( I'm sure I would have to keep it disconnected for awhile to confirm that) Thanks in advance, Bob