nassor

I believe the website is http://www.electricsupercharger.com but I remain skeptical. The physics to seem to hold 'air' however. Combining the e-ram with a cold-air intake could be really cool! I miss my XT-6, it was a fun car. -Nassor

quote: Looks like I have some more work to do. Is the TPS an adjustable unit, or is it just good or bad? Short answer: The performance of the TPS can degrade slowly or it can fail completely. It is adjustable for the throttle open threshold point (a critical adjustment for the 4 pin type with the throttle switch). Long Answer: The TPS is a potentiometer (sp?) similar to ones used for volume controls etc.. A metal contact sweeps the length of a band of carbon to vary the resistance (Ohms). They can develop problems and get 'noisy' when the carbon wears down or if any crud gets in there. If the carbon band actually breaks it will only function for a portion of the range. Thanks for the kudos on my post I hope the info is all accurate. It came from personal experience and a Haynes Manual. -Nassor

According to my '98 Legacy Owner's Manual, the Camber for the Outback (and SUS) should be 0 deg. 20' for front and -0 deg. 35' for rear. The Toe is listed as 0.0 (+/- 0.12 in.) front and rear for ALL Legacy models. Hope this helps. Camber specs for 1998 Legacy models: FWD Sedan and AWD Wagon: Rear:-0 deg. 55'....... Front:-0 deg. 5' FWD Wagon:...................... Rear:-0 deg. 45' .......Front:-0 deg. 5' AWD Sedan:....................... Rear:-1 deg. 00'....... Front:-0 deg. 5' Outback and SUS:............... Rear:-0 deg. 35'...... Front:+0 deg. 20' -Nassor

I am wondering if anybody has tried the e-ram product on a 2.5i engine. It alledgedly will increase HP by %10-%15 by using a high current electric fan that kicks in during WOT and pressurizes the intake a little. Sounds corny, I know, but it just might work. The poor-man's supercharger I Guess. http://www.electricsupercharger.com/I've considered it for my '98 LOB (if I ever get it fixed) -Nassor

The TPS is located on the throttle body and should have a three or four wire connector. It consists of a potentiometer (variable resistor) connected between the ECU refrence voltage and ground with the wiper feeding the signal back to the ECU. The four wire version also incorporates an idle switch. 3Wire: Pin1: GND Pin2: REF voltage (5volts from ECU) Pin3: TPS Signal 4Wire: Pin1: Idle switch (opens with throttle) Pin2: GND Pin3: REF voltage (5volts from ECU) Pin4: TPS Signal Key on, engine not running: Without removing the connector, read the voltage between the TPS signal pin and GND. As the throttle is opened the voltage should go from about 1 volt with the throttle closed to 5 volts with throttle wide open. Check for a smooth, continuous change as the throttle is opened. Key off, TPS disconnected: If the pins are not accesible then remove the connector and read the resistance (Ohms) between the signal pin and GND. Observe the reading as you slowly open the throttle to full. The the reading should increase steadily over the entire range. I do not recall the numbers for the resistance test. I am pretty sure the ECU automaticly calibrates itself for this. The 'key on, engine not running' test mode is preferred because it will also indicate problems with the connector or with the refrence voltage. **** A few other thoughts and questions: This problem sounds like it being caused by exhaust restriction more than anything else. Is there a specific point in the throttle position where you lose power or do you lose power only at WOT (wide open trottle)? Many systems have a WOT switch that allows it to respond to maximum power demand with actions such as turning off the AC compressor, alternator or other systems that draw horsepower. Some systems will also implement a 'passing gear mode' that will advance the timing for more power at higher RPM. If you are losing power only while at WOT, you might investigate what changes your car makes for WOT conditions. If the problem is the TPS, it is probably causing a lean condition. This can also be caused by fuel restriction at the injector, fuel filter, fuel pump. If the knock sensor it not working, you might be losing power due to detonition. Does the engine knock when you are missing power? -Nassor '89 XT-6 (retired at about 200k mi.) '98 LOB 2.5L DOHC 4EAT AWD (has a spun a rod bearing, looking for short block)

Wow, sounds familiar. I used to own an '89 XT-6 FrWD with the 4EAT. Something happened to the tranny at about 130k miles. It lost reverse and either 1st or 2nd I think. Here is the strange part - it would not even ROLL backwards, in ANY gear. I drove it this way for several hundred miles and had to be very careful how I parked. The only way to move the car backward was to put a floor jack with wheels under one of the front tires and lift it up so that the differential could spin the lifted wheel forward while the other wheel rolled backwards. I ended up having the trans. rebuilt by Kelly Transmission in Albuquerque. It cost me a bit over $2000, but was smoother than ever when I got it back. This is the first time I've heard of anyone else with a similar problem. -Nassor '89 XT-6 FrWD (retired at just over 200k mi., running fine w/lifter tick) '98 Legacy OB 2.5L DOHC (spun rod bearing)

'98 Legacy Outback 2.5L DOHC 4EAT AWD was getting about 26-28mpg hwy. Modern automatc trannys that incorporate a lockup type torque converter should do as well as any standard for highway driving, save for weighing a bit more. After all, when you are cruising in top gear and the tranny has locked the torque converter, the drivetrain is as direct as with a manual transmission. City driving mileage is impacted a bit however. -Nassor '89 XT-6 FrWD (retired at just over 200k mi., running fine w/lifter tick) '98 Legacy OB 2.5L DOHC (spun rod bearing)

You are correct about the 2.5L and I have heard the same suggestion from at least a couple of local sub mechanics. I'd hate to downgrade the power. It has an automatic trans. and a towing kit that I hope to be able to use someday (although it is likely part of the reason for the engine failure in the first place). Do you have any idea off hand what the power output difference is between the 2.5DOHC and any of the 2.2's? I also wonder if swapping to a turbo version might be feasible. Other considerations include using the E-RAM electric motor supercharger... hmmmmm -Nassor

Have you checked the TPS (Throttle position sensor)? You should be able to test it with any cheap multimeter. afterthought added---> the restricted exhaust does sound likely, but if the prob. remains with the cat disconnected (don't run for too long this way or you may damage valves) then check the TPS. Actually it is an easier test, you might check it before diagnosing the exhaust system.

Hello all, I'm just saying hello here, so here is a little about me. I became a subaru fan a few years back when I acquired a used '98 XT-6 FWD (The Red Wedge). The odometer went from 89k to just over 200k while I had it so I ended up learning quite a lot. I know why there is sometimes a strange smell from the AC and the power steering light comes on often followed by an alternator/regulator failure. (Yes these are all related!) I've seen many forums on similar or related topics. I currently own a '98 Legacy Outback. I bought it cheap with 149k mi. for $2500.00! It was in immaculate condition except for a pretty loud tapping/knocking sound. I deluded myself that it was only piston slap and would not cause any serious problems. 3000 miles later it spun a rod bearing (DOH!). I raised the engine, dropped the pan and replaced the bearing (#4 of course). plastiguage showed the clearance to be only very slightly over spec. but the crank had taken enough damage to give me doubts. <SigH> I put it back together, added fresh oil and filter, and drove a few miles before parking it. I have concluded I should look for replacement engine or at least a short block. If only I had done this bearing a few days sooner... it only took about 4-5 hours (with a lift an a clean shop to work in voluteered by a buddy). If anybody has the stuff I need I can compensate with a kick-rump roast computer system, custom built and hand-loaded/patched to specification and provide end user support for, say, one year. So that is what brings me here. it may be a few months before my budget will allow me to move on any opportunities so I am taking my time with the research. On a side note, I have also been checking out the ODBII scene and acquired an ODBII to USB interface and software that is supposed to do dynamic monitoring and data collection the. It arrived the day AFTER my engine died so I have not had a chance to play with it yet. -Nassor