jamal
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Posts posted by jamal
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Those brakes come on the following US-spec cars:
91-94 Legacy turbo
96-02 Legacy GT/Outback
00-04 Legacy non-GT
98-07 Impreza RS/TS/2.5i
98-02 Forester
Other year ranges in other countries apparently also got them. There are three different caliper/bracket/pad designs but they are all functionally the same.
The rotors are 276x24mm
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The calculation for lateral weight transfer is this:
centrifugal force x CG height / track width.
The lateral movement of the CG due to body roll contributes a negligible amount of transfer.
So the maximum corning force is also determined by the track width and CG height. Take a tall SUV and put super stuff swaybars and springs and sticky tires on it. The CG height hasn't changed and the car is just as likely to roll in a sharp corner.
I suggest you read the book How to make your car handle by Fred Puhn if you want to learn about this stuff instead of just arguing incorrectly about it on the internet.
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And also, of course, less body roll would cause less weight transfer.
Dave
Sorry no that is wrong.
Given the same cornering force, the total weight transfer is the same regardless of spring rate or swaybar size. Stiffening things up causes the weight to transfer more quickly, and changing swaybars alters the transfer distribution from front to rear.
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not particularly. Springs and swaybars almost exclusively limit roll.
If you have a way, way, way overdamped setup, than yes they can do that. Auto-xers do it in the classes where you can change the struts but not the springs.
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The same amount of weight transfers regardless of suspension stiffness. A bigger rear swaybar means more of that weight transfers to the rear tire, and that it happens more quickly. That makes the rear more likely to step out.
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boo pressure bleeding. Vacuum theoretically will do a better job at removing any air in the fluid.
Check out the pressure bleeding dos and don'ts near the bottom of this page:
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I'd say the snows have a lot to do with it.
You could do a bounce test on the struts, but I'd replace the rear sway no matter what. Everyone who does says it is a huge difference.
A bigger rear swaybar makes the car more likely to snap around.
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I think there has to be A LOT of water in the fluid for that to happen. The biggest problem is the reduced boiling point, though. The wet boiling point of a dot 4 fluid is 311F, which is a 30% reduction from the dry point. Really you should change the fluid every year or two.
Yeah we used that thing for the first time last weekend. It was ridiculous how quick and easy bleeding went compared to my mityvac. Also yes, I noticed how air gets sucked into the threads without a sealant of some sort.
That reminds me that I need to buy another bottle of the fancy expensive motul fluid I use and do a flush.
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If the density of H20 is greater than DOT 3?
Would any that came out of solution not stay at the lowest points in the system?
Thus backing up WA's method.
Water won't come out of the fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so it any water in the fluid gets distributed evenly.
I empty the reservoir with a syringe and vacuum bleed at the calipers. I even rigged up a nifty power bleeder with stuff from work:
Worked great on my friend's car.
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"If a driver enters a corner too quickly and lifts off the throttle, the Legacy's tail can slide out and could cause the car to spin. Stability control should correct this problem, but it is not available on the trim level of our base 2.5i. ........It loses major points for handling that gets tricky in emergency maneuvers. "
Td
That will happen in ANY car. A sharp lift while cornering unloads the back wheels.
It seems that people are such terrible drivers that the manufactures have to tune suspension so that the car won't even turn.
I would blame
A. the snow tires
B. the struts
C. you. Power is the best way to get these cars straightened out.
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The marks only line up every like 40 turns or something after it's on. Marking the old belt doesn't really matter but you do have to line up the marks on the new one. You kind of just have to wiggle things around a bit. An extra set of hands really helps hold things in place while you get things lined up.
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The auto driveshaft is shorter. Strangely enough, the auto shaft is the right length for an STi 6-speed.
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My 02-03 wrx cd-changer doesn't play cds sometimes in the cold either.
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for track and auto-x you want at least -2 degrees of front camber. A second set of bolts or plates would be necessary for that.
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A clunking rear diff is fairly common. Stiffer aftermarket diff outrigger and mount bushings are available from places like turninconcepts.com. They do add some noise and vibration though.
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Compare prices with subarugenuineparts.com or just PM subiegal before you walk into a dealership and buy all that stuff. It tends to cost much less online.
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I'm losing:
93 Legacy - 190401 miles.
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or just leave the seatbelt buckled.
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The new sportshift 5eat is actually pretty decent. It only goes in the Legacy based cars though
Legacy, outback, tribeca.
And to me the fact that all the cars are so similar and share a lot of components is great. Keeps costs down and reliability up. This is a thread about the 5MT though.
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Uh, they did build a new 5-speed auto. I've driven it and was impressed.
The Baja consisted of chopping off the back of an outback to make it a ute. Honesty I don't think they spent a lot of money on R&D for that.
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The new sportshift 5eat is actually pretty decent. It only goes in the Legacy based cars though and the new WRX still gets a 4-speed auto. Those still suck. At least the old ones have the manual button that keeps the transmission from kicking down when you don't want it to.
As far as the manual 5-speed goes, no, not much has changed since 1990. The design is the same but the gears got a little wider and stronger and the ribbing on the case was changed to make it stronger at some point. The center diff was changed slightly in around 99 as well.
There is a lot of info over on nasioc:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=986710
more stuff here:
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Actually go to tirerack.com. They list all the actual dimensions of tires. Although not on all the 215/65-16s, which is a pretty un-common size. Go down to 215-60 or 225-60 and there are more options and also more clearance.
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hmmm. Well, I don't think the wheel width will make a difference. there should be plenty of room between the strut tube and sidewall anyway.
If it's that close I'd be more worried about the new tires having a wider actual tread. Two tires with the same size written on the side are definitely not always the same dimensions.
My 225 Bridgestone RE750s were noticeably wider than the 225 Falken 912s I have now.
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So, the 2002 WRX wheels are a little wider (6.5 vs. 6.0 as I've read) but the same offset at 55mm. Say I put on 215/65 on them, and reason would suggest that I'll be 1/4 closer to the spring/strut guard on the inside but about the same height.
Offset is the distance from the mounting surface to the center of the rim. So with the same offset the center of the wheel will be in the same position relative to the hub regardless of width. So a tire with the same outer dimensions will fit just the same.
UPDATE: Problem Solved re What model is this 2-pot caliper from?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
It should be in the same year region because the bracket and the mounting changed so they aren't all interchangeable. I think anything before 98 will work but I'm not sure.