Hiya skip....

 

I'm pretty sure the idlers are backwards there. The idler that failed looks like the single row type...that position needs a double row/black idler. I think they were reinstalled reverse of proper position?

 

 

They might have both been the black double row idlers. It's used in both positions now from what I've heard.

 

Also here is what can happen when the idler gear fails:

 

 

More pictures here and here if anyone is interested.

vacuum bleeding makes the job go much easier and can be more effective. A mityvac is $35, which nothing compared to what you'll save doing it yourself.

 

All you do is pump up the handle to build vacuum, crack the bleed screw, and start pumping.

 

 

For a cost comparison, if you went to a dealership you would be looking at the following prices:

 

$180 for front rotors

$180 for rear rotors

$80 for front pads

$80 for rear pads

$200 for labor

Total: $720

 

That total is dependant they only charge you MSRP for parts and that much labor.

 

Then they would probably try to get you to buy all new calipers because "yours, like, don't work right anymore 'cause they're old."

 

Rebuild kits are like $20 a caliper and re-man calipers at parts stores are cheap.

 

Doing it yourself you're spending, at most:

 

$160 for rotors

$100 for pads

$35 for a mityvac

$25 for fluid, cleaner, rags, grease

Total: $420

Erm....I think you'll find that the largest portion of cracked Borla's are replicas.

 

Look to cobbtuning.com maybe ?

 

More like the opposite, and the cobb headers are way over priced. From what I've been reading it was only the early borlas that cracked. The e-bay stuff is about half the price of the real thing.

 

I have also heard that the OBX and Cobb headers are made by the same place, just sold at different prices.

Conveniently enough, this was just posted on nasioc:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1393580

 

However, once you get over 400hp, the headgaskets tend to float around a bit, and there are even dowel pins. Someone who knows more than me has two closed deck 2.2 blocks stashed away that he intends to stroke to 2.35l.

 

The STi 6-speed is not something you have to worry much about breaking unless you do really stupid things. generally a CV or two will break first.

Mintex do make pads for Subarus. I use them, and I'm a big fan

 

You will not be able to find a "Mintex" around here; in the US, they are branded Axxis/PBR.

 

That said I'm very happy with my Axxis Ultimates. They're excellent performance street pads, but are very, very, very dusty. The BHP XPS, Hawk HP+ and Ferodo DS2500 are all pretty similar.

there's a little plastic piece that goes on the gold pin. Not sure what it's for or why they aren't both the same:

 

Yeah, I just happened to have seen them recently. I don't really feel like combing through other local classifieds.

 

I thought tirerack usually had pretty reasonable shipping. There might also be some other online Canadian vendor or a place with a warehouse around detroit or buffalo or something where you could pick up the tires. Although by that point it's getting hard to justify possibly saving a few hundred bucks on the purchase price for all the trouble you have to go through.

Again, I am talking about the original post. The price is $49 each for the steelies and I would not pay that. Additionally you should check into ordering from tirerack or discount tire or something because you could probably save yourself some more money that way.

 

For reference:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1378908

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1386973

 

You should be able to put together a used alloy and online ordered snow tire package for more like $600 mounted and balanced. And they'll last 3-5 years, not 5-10.

I was referring to the $40 each for the new steelies as being kind of steep, not Eric's price. It is ridiculous how cheap you can get a set of used OEM alloys.

$200 for four steelies? Screw that. I just saw a set of used wrx alloys for $60 in my regional nasioc classifieds.

 

That's not bad. I have a set off steel rims. Do you want them?? They are rust free. I want like $40 for all 4. They have tires on them though. But they are fine for your car. They are 14".

14" wheels don't fit over his brakes.

Mine did not. No new castle nut or cotter pin either.

 

It was OEM from subiegal btw.

If you drill it from the other side it should come out and possibly not ruin the threads.

 

Then use a new bolt from a dealership with some anti-seize.

not much. It's a bad idea to add boost to an n/a block. Especially without turbo pistons.

 

I suggest reading these FAQs on nasioc:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386462

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195694

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185230

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169980

You'll also need a turbo crossmember, front swaybar, ecu, and wiring harness.

 

You could use a wrx or sti exhaust, turbo, and IC to swap to single turbo without issue.

Yes, wider and/or grippier tires will absolutely make the car handle and stop better. A wider section doesn't flex as much which makes the car more responsive. There are generally very cheap sets of 16" wrx wheels and tires for sale in the local nasioc.com classifieds. Like $200 for a 205/55-16 on 16x6.5" wheels. RE92s are mediocre at best but I didn't ever have a problem with them on snow and they were a huge improvement over the generic 185/70-14 sears all seasons I had before.

 

There's definitely room to go a little bigger if you want. My tires are four sizes wider than OE.. I wouldn't even consider driving in snow with them, though.

 

Sipes are good for ice and very slippery conditions, but they can make the tire a little squirmy on pavement.

I recently discovered that a bad timing belt idler makes a pretty terrible and loud knocking noise. Especially when the do this:

 

 

Cost me a day and about $250.

have you tried putting in a new bulb?

Modern 15" Subaru wheels will for sure clear your brakes and be the right bolt pattern and offset. Most aftermarket wheels do not have enough positive offset.

 

Ideal offset is +53-55mm for an Impreza/Legacy and +48 for a Forester/Outback. Straying too far in either direction results in rubbing or not fitting and destroyed wheel bearings.

 

Most Subaru wheels from the last 20 years or so have a 5x100 bolt pattern and about +55mm et. SVX, Tribeca, and 05+ STI are 5x114.3.

 

All of this information has been posted here many, many times before and can be easily found with the search feature.

get a new center return spring.

I bought a sony headunit and cut and re-soldered all the wires. I would recommend going with an aftermarket stereo and the adapter kit.

 

Does the dimmer work?

I bought my 05 changer for $60 and the harness was $14 from David Carter (svxdc).

 

http://jamalb.net/carsite/cdchanger.htm

hahaha wow. Pretty sure that's my problem too.

 

Edit:

 

The brake light turned off but I'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to be. It doesn't fit right all jammed up in the cap and I thought the bladder dealie was to keep the fluid from sloshing around.

Go to nasioc.com and check the local/regional for sale classifieds. Chances are there's a set of 16" wrx wheels and tires for sale for less than $250 within driving distance. The 205/55-16s they have are a bit bigger but will fit no problem.

Subaru 15" alloys are going to be one of the few sets of wheels with the proper offset (+55mm), and that will for sure clear those brakes.

pm subiegal or go to subarugenuineparts.com. Best OEM prices I've seen along with great customer service. I buy parts from her whenever possible.