DaveT
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Posts posted by DaveT
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No throttle re learn, these are simple systems.
If the TPS is really bad, you should have a ECU code blinking on the LED on the ECU.
Might be worth checking the fuel pressure - if it's low, it can idle fine, but be gutless as it's starved and leaned out.
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An EJ2.2 is already 40% additional power. You need to use 4WD to put that power to the road without spinning the tires, even in 2nd gear. I would be worried about a 2.2 breaking things further down the driveline. I think I read someone swapped the transmission also, and made up axles to get from the newer transmission to the wheels, driveshaft, newer diff, etc... a lot more mechanical adapting and fab, I think.
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water pump bolts don't need sealer. It's good to use anti seize on them, and other bolts.
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Make sure all 7 cooling system hoses are in good condition, replace one, replace them all...
Make sure the radiator is in good condition also. If you run low on coolant, and the temp gauge goes higher than normal, odds are you will need new headgaskets.
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Attached to the bracket the brake pedal pivots on.
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Ah, yes, that doesn't make me think low pressure.
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Yes, injector side.
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If it could be fuel pressure, T in a mechanical gauge.
On one of my SPFI cars, the regulator died, dropping the pressure, and it would starve for fuel. All kinds of bad though, idle ok, sometimes, sometimes not. Barely could get any power.
Of course, I made the mistake of assuming it was the fuel pump and replaced it, only to find I still had the problem. Swapped another regulator from one of my spare engines, and it was a lot better. Initially it would only handle about 3/4 throttle, so I bought a separate add on regulator, planning on setting it up and I'd be able to adjust the pressure. Then one day before I actually installed it, I was driving, and discovered I had full range of throttle working. So far, it still is. -
I have had good luck with the highest level water pumps from NAPA. They came with the o ring and a gasket.
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Mostly turbo vs non is engine and ECU differences. There are various transmissions, those may make differences. It's safest to get the entire car if possible. IF not, I would want everything in the drive lines from the transmission to the tires. Depending on the transmission controls, the wiring harness involved, and or an vacuum stuff involved. Check what kind of rear brakes both have also. Many parts for these are getting rare / hard to find / NLA, so collecting them is a good idea. There are a couple of transmissions that are different. I am most familiar with non turbo EA82 powered automatics, the 3AT 4WD transmission. There were a few that were AWD, most common is 4WD. There is a difference.
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If you get the awd transmission from another GL10 with awd, and the rest of the drive parts, it should be no problem. The non 10 transmission will bolt onto the engine, but I don't know about the mounting / body dimensions. You do want to get the transmission and diff from one car. Might as well get the trailing arms, driveshaft and axles too.
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If I had space to store it... looks like a good body.
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Not quite bolt on.
Adapters for the mechanical stuff.
Remake a wiring harness for the engine EFI system.
The typical EJ 2.2 swap is from the early legacy models. Some have done transmission also from them. But you need to do mix and match axles / driveshafts etc. There are threads for these kind of projects in this section.
Note - I am just going by the threads I've read about this, as I have thought about ej ing my loyales.
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Hmmm... the stock radios in mine the power was switched by the key. Only the memory feed wire stayed on. What model and year car are we talking about here?
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This is very weird. Makes no sense. Are the cam and the non-stock radio powered by that line, or is it just some kind of sense input for them?
What are they powered by?
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No power feed is grounded when the key is off. When power is switched off, the circuit is left open. The loads inherently pull the voltage down, since there is no supply.
The wipers should not significantly effect the voltage on the power feed to them. The 12V has to be solid enough to power them.
The stock radio is nothing fancy. Probably only drew an amp or 2 cranked up.There are 2 power feeds to the radio - one is switched, the other is always on, to keep the memorized stations from being cleared.
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I could scan a page or 2. Can you give me an idea of what you are looking for?
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spray carb cleaner down the throat for 1-2 seconds. hold pedal about 1/4. crank. If it tries to fire, [and once you are used to this trick, you can get it to run for a few seconds, if everything except fuel is ok] you have a fuel problem.
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I'd have to look up the torque, but yeah, it's around 10. And they are not grade 8 bolts even.
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Do NOT try to turn a cam with the pulley mounting bolt, it will snap.
Get a short bar of aluminum or steel. 8" - 12" long. Drill 20 holes in it, that line up with 2 of the holes in the edge of the pulley. 1/4" bolts through the holes, poke into the holes on the pulley, and you can easily turn the cam. When the cam is in the belt install 0posuition, the valve springs will not be interfering with setting the position.
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Key on, causes current to flow. The current interferes with the current from the ohm meter, throwing the reading off.
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The way I'm reading the above - Ohm readings are meaningless if there is a power source in the circuit - battery, or running alternator.
If the battery was disconnected, well, the key changing the ground resistance as described make no sense. -
I just dug through my spare parts. Found a cam carrier with a distributor. 1 turn of the cam pulley makes one turn on the distributor. 1:1 gears. All you have to do is line up the timing marks.
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Loyale was the end of the design / style. You have to look to earlier to find bolt on easy stuff.
Keep it running more or less OEM. IF you want more power, an EJ2.2 FI is 40% more HP. For less $ and time than any other extreme mods to the EA that will get you less of a power increase. But now the transmission is a weak link...
Timing Belts/Kit '88 EA82 Tricks or Tips?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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No, turning it by hand isn't going to do anything to the oil pump. You can't move enough volume fast enough to harm anything.