Proteus503

I'd love to see some pictures of the PT4WD 1.59 low-Dual Range EA82 5 speed. Thanks!

Thank you everyone. looks like I'll be heading to Autozone for a re-man'ed alt very shortly. time to do drive belts anyway. Thanks again.

so i'm driving home from work, and my "charge" light starts coming on at low idle, and above 2500 rpms... as the rpms increase past 2500, the charge light gets brighter and brighter. is this a tell-tale sign of a dying alternator? or something else perhaps? battery is strong, only 2 1/2 yrs old. 140k miles, ea-82 spfi. whats the average death-mileage of a stock alternator? anyone have similar experiences? thanks!

great info! thanks!

I'm shopping for a 98ish outback, 2.5L 5-speed awd. wondering what sort of issues I can expect, common problems, things to look out for, etc. also I'm wondering what kind of mild modifications can be done to increase power. any easy ECU upgrades for these engines? any major restrictions in the exhaust or is it well balanced? thanks in advance!

Removing the EGR does not effect your engine life or your mileage. EGR is only present to reduce emmissions. Toyota ditched their EGR systems in the year 2000. They opted, instead, to add a second catalytic converter. They did this for two reasons: 1: maintain low emmissions 2: increase reliability... EGR valves fail, vacuum lines crack / rupture / get cut / accidentally pulled out / etc... a second catalytic is a much more reliable way to maintain low emmissions. just thought you might like to hear another side to the story. continue dead horse beating...

found a bunch on www.car-part.com great resource for junkyard shopping.

Wondering if its possible to direct swap a non-turbo MPFI EA-82 into an '86 GL-10 that has a dead MPFI EA-82 Turbo engine? any wiring harness / ecu issues? For that matter, could I swap in an SPFI EA-82 into the car? again, any wireing harness / ecu issues? I'm having a hard time finding a good used EA-82 (MPFI w/turbo) engine, but I am finding lots of EA-82 (MPFI w/o turbo) engines thanks in advance!

How about $25 (shipping included) for a pair to the lower 48 states? I'll need some time to pull my EGR in order to make a template though.

Agreed, 100%. free bumpage for an excellent read. I've been through a similar situation with my toyota tacoma 4-cylinders (yes, plural). The EGR dumps so much carbon and crap back into the intake manifold, that the EGR simply isnt worth having on the engine in the first place. Prolonged existance of the EGR system leads to carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, which causes pinging if left uncleaned. nothing a can of sea-foam cant fix... but long story short, definately kill the egr. Removing the EGR HAS (in my experience) raised Exhaust Gas Temperatures, but nothing drastic. If anything, I've noticed a boost in MPG (not sure if thats attributed to lowered intake air temps, or higher exhaust temps). anywho... sounds like we need some EGR block plates. I'd be happy to cut some block plates out at work. I work with 304L and 316L stainless all the live long day. Just want to throw a feeler out there before I dig myself a big hole.... who all would be interested in some nice stainless steel EGR block plates? say... Polished 304L SS, 1/4" - 3/8" thick? what would be a fair price for a pair?

how do you figure? I've personally witnessed 2jz turbo dyno passes with a stock bottom end pushing 900+ rwhp. now if you're refering to the 7mgte engine out've the older mk3 supras... then yes, they were notorious for head gasket failure. simple solution, arp head studs and a stainless steel head gasket. sorry for the rant, but I'm a die-hard toyota fan, so I just couldnt let this comment slide.

what year make and model subees came with the ej20 stock? thats where you'll find your donor wiring harnesses & ecus. I take it that the ej20 doesnt bolt up to the older transmissions? (wishful thinking)

http://www.ni-mo.com/subaru.htm EA-82 NA or Turbo for $550 plus shipping (so figure $600) Great deal. Santa's bringin me one for christmas...

Thank you guys soooo much... I thought I was going to have to do a tear down or something more major than I really wanted to. Thanks again!

My '89 wagon (EA82 SPFI) has been sitting for a couple of months. I fired it up today and it's making a LOT of clacking noise... it was not doing this two months ago when it was my daily driver. checked oil, its full. not sure when the last time the valve lash was checked, I'll try that and see what happens. is it possible that a seal of some kind has dried up in the oil pump from beeing in storage for so long? anyone with similar situation? advice? gracias!

Thanks for the replies. I've already done the clutch. the radiator is fine for now... its old and beat-up, but it doesnt leak. I've changed all of the filters, the thermostat, and pcv valve, the hoses and belts are fine (though i havent checked the timing belt and have no idea when it (they) was replaced last, so those are due as far as im concerned). plugs, plug wires, rotor and cap are all new. the only other thing that i can think of is to replace the oxygen sensor. the problems: probable head gasket (the engine has a coolant habit and white smoke comes out the tail pipe when the engine is cold) oil leaks... EVERYWHERE! I replaced the rear main seal, only to discover that both valve covers are leaking. If I do decide to re-seal it, where could I find a gasket kit and how much would it cost? I sent an email to CCR for a price quote... no reply as of yet. Thanks again!

The EA82 SPFI engine in my '89 gl wagon is dying... it needs a TON of work. Rather than go through the details and fix everything, I just want to replace it with a rebuilt engine and be done with it. I really dont have the time to go through it myself... it'd take days to fix the problems, verses one day to swap the problem out. I'm in / around Portland, Oregon... I've been asking around and searching online looking for rebuilt EA82's, but havent found any good deals. Where should I go to buy a rebuilt EA82? does anyone know of a good engine rebuilder in my area? I have another running vehicle so downtime isnt really an issue. How much cash should I budget? Searching online... I've seen the prices vary between $550 and $2200. A used, mid-mileage engine with no bad habits (oil-leaks / coolant consumption) would also be acceptable... if the price is right. Thanks in advance!

http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tacotalk&Number=488185&Forum=,All_Forums,&Words=seafoam&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Main=462553&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post488185 Lots of feedback about the use of SeaFoam from my Tacoma forum... Most've the folks on there swear by the stuff! edit: scroll up to top and read down.

Thanks for the replies all! granted, my truck was lowered, but it was 2wd. The sooB is 4wd, and I DO want to lift it! I will search for more info rather than changing topics on this thread. thanks again!

Greetings! My name is Colin, and I'm from the Portland, Oregon area. I'm so glad to find a good forum for my newly aqquired 1989 Subaru GL Wagon (4wd, 5-speed, 135k miles). I recently wrecked my pride and joy, a 1996 toyota tacoma, and picked up the subaru as my new daily driver. A fellow from my tacoma forum (www.customtacos.com) referred me here. If any of you have a tacoma, I highly recommend that you check out CT! Links to my old taco: good: http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/552lce_aug_newsletter_pic.jpg wrecked: http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/552death.jpg and my newly aqquired subee: http://www.customtacos.com/gallery2/data/500/552suebee.jpg Anyway, on to business! I bought this subaru about a week ago, and I've got a multitude of little problems. First: When I'm making a left hand turn, I hear a "clunck" sound. I had Les Schwab take a look, and they said that the lower ball joints are toast. alas, a good friend of mine has an 88 just like mine, and he said it was probably the CV joints or axles, or possibly even a wheel bearing. The car handles well on the road... alignment feels good, the tires need to be spun and balanced a little bit, but all in all it handles fine. at 135k miles, what would be a common cause for this clunking noise? What preventative maintenance should I perform now rather than later? Second: When I first bought the car, the brake fluid level was low. The car needs new rotors and pads, which I thought might've been the reason for the low fluid level, but a week after topping it off... my brake fluid light (on the dash) lit up last night... so it has to be leaking somewhere. the engine bay is a mess, otherwise I could probably track down the leak, so I'm asking, is there any place (ie the brake fluid resivoir or master cylinder) where it is common to spring a leak in the brake fluid plumbing? I appologize for the long-windedness of my post. I'm affraid that I'm going to be pestering you all for a while. Being an avid internet forum user, I do try to use the SEARCH feature as much as possible. I appreciate your time and replies! Thank you!