tunered

Did you know? Just because it says 100% synthetic, dont mean that it is, Highly refined petroleum products are allowed to be classified synthetic. It never ends. ed

Have you ever seen them grooves in a crank where the seals have been riding? Well things dont get bigger as they wear, the seals were kept soft and to a small degree swollen against the crank by the additives in dino oil. Synthetics either didnt have any or enough of this additive to keep the seals swollen. Therefore after so many miles they started to leak. Theory and real life are not related. This forum could not hold the complaints of leaking oil. If you own a Nissan look in your owners manual before changing to synthetic, i have been told that some models they recommend not to use synthetics. [ Have not read this myself]. ed

You my friend will have to put up or shut up, No syn has had these additives until now, why is valvoline making great claims if it is not true. ed

If your car has very many miles on it syn oil is really not a good idea, these oils have nothing to help keep your seals pliable, they WILL leak. I have heard Valvoline has a new syn out that has an additive that will work like the conventional oils. ed

Heres whats happening, at idle no 1 is dead, slowly increase rpms, at about 1700rpms engine smooths out jumps to about 2100 rpms , unhook no.1 injector and engine will not smooth out at any safe rpm. If you unplug iac, idle go's up to 1000rpms, wont stall but idles fast, pluged in idle is normal. HELP. Thanks. ed

Working on this now, using a digital ohm meter, on the injector it read 1724 not sure if the period made it 1.7 or not, will try here shortly some other readings from other cyclinders. Thanks. ed

I went across the leads with an ohm meter, engine off, switch off, no reading what so ever. ed

Seems the injector is ok, I cant get any readings at all coming from the injector plug [connector]. Any ideas what to check next? ed

Pull your fuse cover off, should be listed there. ed

Think i could just use a 60 watt light bulb? Just kidding, Not really expensive for what it will tell, Thanks for the link. ed

You jumped over my head a little with the noid light, is this something to go buy, something i can make? If so what type of bulb? Will an ohm meter work? Thanks. ed

I dont know if this will help in finding the problem, when it would miss at startup, if i just drove off, it would clear up almost at the time of accleration, almost instantly. ed

Very interesting, but not looking forward to that!!!!!! Thanks. ed

AVK, Thanks. ed

Any idea what kind of readings i should be looking for? Thanks. ed

Been awhile, been two years since i had any trouble, now i have no.1 dead. Pulling injector plug off or on has no effect. Every once in a while this car would have a miss at startup when hot, shut off, restart, would be fine. Im thinking injector, any ideas, have one for sale? 91 leg. 2.2 auto Thanks. ed

I might help a little, the clicking is the axle, unless there is a busted boot and no grease in there replacment is the answer there, for the low milage sounds like the converter might be plugging up, for the air, does the compresser run when you turn it on? ed

Let me say first that i am no expert, come from the old school. A blown head gasket should repeat the same symptoms time after time, not come and go. i have seen low coolant level do the exact same thing, including bubbles, trying to release the trapped air in the system. a simple pressure check should reveal any leak the system has. ed

More than likley your fuel pressure dropped while sitting, next time cycle the key 2 or three times before you crank it, taking bets it will start right up. ed

Ithink your alternator went out, and your battery is in need of a charge. ed

Main bearings will make more noise on a cold start than when it is warm, on the other hand a loose rod will make more noise at a steady throttle at one given rpm. Try to listen real hard on a cold start, if its not any different i would guess it is a flex plate noise. ed

around my neck of the woods autozone and advance will rent or loan you that tool,check some of your local parts stores.

struts by their lonesome will not cause a vibration,if the are bad they will make it seem worse than it is.im betting you lost a wheel weight or a rim is bent.a belt seperation you should be able to feel as a slight wobble at slow speeds.

pull the rear fuel line off at the filter and see if you have pressure,im betting the pump is weak.

it would be interesting to know if when you put them on high beam if they stay on?