johnceggleston

it's just because it has been sitting. the 96 ej22 engine has HLAs, hydraulic lash adjuster, on the valves. they are ''adjusted '' with the engine oil pressure. if you drive it for a while they will, should, loosen up and adjust themselves and quiet down. you may be able to speed up the process by adding about 1/2 bottle of ''marvelous mystery oil'' to the engine oil and driving it. if you do this i would change the oil after they quiet down or in several hundred, maybe 1000, miles or so. you can drive the car a long time with a wheel bearing going bad so i would wait for the engine to settle down before i did that. how many miles? good luck.

if it sounds like an exhaust leak double check the EGR pipe connections, assuming it has one. probably not relevant, but i would hate for you todo a lot of needless work.

just an assumption, but they all start out the same size. the cats are all the same, 95 - 99?. what year are you talking about????????????????? what pipe, mid? front? or what?

there are only two. double port - 90 - 96 ej22 96 - 04 (and beyond?) ej25. single port - 96 - 98 ej22 any questions?

item #5, http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_13/lubrication_system/oil_cooler_engine/illustration_1/ part number, 21311AA010, and usage, http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21311AA010/

i think the foresters , or at least some of them , came with those. 99s maybe, or 00..

at the very least you need an alignment. maybe some parts are worn out. take it to a reputable front end shop and have it aligned. did you have the alignment done after the springs were replaced?

first, the trans oil cooler in the radiator, doesn't it also warm the trans fluid in certain conditions? is the radiator ever warmer than the trans ? i thought the radiator ''controlled'' the trans oil temp, maintained it tot the correct temp. why not just add an oil cooler for the engine oil? where do you ''tap'' the engine for the motor oil?

lots of parts will fail before a rear diff will wheel bearings are one and they will make noise in the rear. and the drive shaft u-joints are another and they can be damaged by the wear and tear torque bind causes. of course a rear diff can go bad, but if it has fluid in it i would suspect something else.

auto trans or manual trans????????????

there is a good chance that one of the drums that the clutch plates ride in has ''groves'' worn in it that causes the AWD to hang up for a while before it engages. do a search, search for , grooves, dremel ? or dremmel ? whatever, , AWD* fix, AWD* repair. there is a good thread with pics showing the fix. swapping the rear extension housing will correct a lot of the ''ills'' but not all. the drum on the trans side has grooves too.

based on today's scrap price, you can get $200 for almost any subaru even without an engine, maybe more $$. so buy this and then scrap the car. is it a perfect low mileage engine? probably not. but it will put your car back on the road for a fair price even after you move it. http://morgantown.craigslist.org/cto/2586175396.html or find another one of similar price and condition. the engine is not going to show up on your door step for $150, you have to go find it.

then get another ''T'' and a section of vac line and tie it into the one going to the strut tower. as a matter of fact, double check that the all of the line on the existing ''T'' are connected to something. the third leg may be loose.

the 99 has only one line going to the strut tower and the 2 devices are in line, one connects to the other. the 96 has 2 lines going to the strut tower, one to each device.

also check your battery cable connections to make sure they are clean and tight.

you are going to have a very hard tyime finding someone more knowledgeable than josh, legacy777. first check out the info on the linked page and then look at the rest of his forum. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 his site, http://www.experiencetherave.com , also has lots of FSM for your review. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ josh knows his stuff.

did you connect the ground wire first and then turn on the key to run? but not start.

it would appear from the attached page that MY'00 - MY'01 legacys do not have the EGR valve with the connecting pipe to the driver side head. (like all the 96 - 99 ej25s have). but starting in the '02MY they went back to that late 90s style. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_2/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_egr/

first, the secret hand shake only works on obd1 cars. what year is yours? if you have an obd2 car, (95 - 99, maybe beyond.) do a search here for ''transcodes" or ''readingtranscodes" and read the oldest posts first. you will find the info on reading the TCU code by grounding out a pin in a 6 pin connector under the dash. it is a diagnostic connector and has 2 loose, single pin, grounding wires as part of the harness. not all 6 positions in the connector hacve pins in them, but ALL of the pins that are there are for flashing codes, TCU, ABS, SRS (air bag) etc. so ground out a pin with the key in the run position and the engine off and see what you get. it the AT Temp light does not flash, try another pin. if the FWD light does not come on when you put in the fwd fuse, then the duty c is not working. it sounds like your duty c is bad. for the wheel bearing, have some one drive the car while tyou ride in the back . listen on each side of the car to see if you can identify more noise on one side or the other. try jacking up the suspect wheel and turn it by hand while resting your finger on the spring. if you feel some thing you have found your culprit.

my 00 legacy has a thicker key. so i think they changed that year. but up until then, they were all the same for the ignition. i'm not sure about the door locks.

so i'm not familiar with the particulars of the 00 - 04 engines. does the auto = egr, manual = no egr, rule still hold? do they all have it? is there a rule? thanks, john

if the car pulls to the left then the alignment is wrong. have them re-do it.

no that does not make sense. the water pump leaking or the t-stat housing / gasket leaking makes sense. when was the last time you change the water pump? timing belt?

are you sure, it is a subaru after all. they're supposed to be nothing but headaches.

when searching on line for replacement o2 sensors, (i was just looking at price and availability, i wasn't really going to buy an after market part) i noticed that one, at least one, of the ''generic'' o2 sensors, without a connector, was listed as fitting 1990 - 2011. now, i didn't bother to study the info or even to determine if it was front or rear, but there is a chance ..... so good luck. http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?D=oxygen+sensor&sid=1324B68B38C6&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&rid=1324B68B38C6&Ntk=Main&N=1719+11736+4294960294+20&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntt=oxygen+sensor&refine=Price+Range|Less+Than+%2450