johnceggleston

the engines should be the same. 00-01 do not have EGR, 02 - 04 do have EGR. (any one know if the 99 forester sohc has EGR?) i don't know, but i wonder if 02 is when they changed the cam sprocket??

i think the paint marks are part of a quality inspection at the factory. not anything to do with timing. as each inspector does his job he puts his paint mark on the part inspected. and somewhere along the line, some one reviews all the paint marks. or maybe random cars are selected to be reviewed.

this repair is not cheap, not if you have to buy the tool for 180?? was it . i don't remember. but it is way cheaper than pulling the head and replacing it. but for a one time use, it would be nice to get a used ''install tool'' or rent one. is either a possibility??

i agree with burping. hold off on the barrs. it might help a coolant leak but not a bad HG. read up on burping and do it correctly. nothing to lose but a little coolant and some time. you can always pour stop leak in tomorrow if you sitll want to. any recent service prior to it first overheating? overheat under load, cool off at idle?

congrats on your new car. don't you just love the subaru ads that say, ''front tires new, rear tires ok''. it always makes me groan.

subaru head gasket failure does not usually cause milky oil or white smoke. they do cause coolant loos and gunk, black? gunk in the over flow bottle on the rad, and bubbles in the rad. it could be a block rad, what are you symptoms? when does it over heat? what kind of driving? can you get it to cool down? how?

his link is in his ''signature''. it is at the bottom of every one of his posts. if you can not see it you need to go to the CP tab at the top of the page and adjust your settings so you can see ''signatures''.

congrats dad.

make sure you know the torquing procedure before you pull it apart. there is a part about measuring the torque it takse to rotate the pinion / input shaft. because when you put the nudt back on, you can over torque it making it too tight which will lead to wearing out the bearings? in the diff. this may be standard for rear diffs, but it was news to me when i look into doing mine.

how many miles on the car? you put the anti-fouler on the rear. have replace either o2 sensor before? if so at what mileage and how many miles ago? what prompted the anti-fouler?

i looked at a parts car recently with the engine removed. and the doge bone had a zigzag shape to it. it was one with the metal rod, not the one shaped like a dog bone. some dummy either didn't have the time to undo it or didn't know. remove the lower bolt and lift away.

or it could be a busted clutch drum. we've seen that before. but which ever, clutch plates or the drum, it is in the rear extension housing. pssst, don't tell any one but winter is just around the corner, don't delay.

what GD said. if you do this, mark the retainer before you remove it and COUNT the number of rotations as you remove it. or you will kill the front diff. is the seal leaking, i mean is it dripping gear oil on the ground? if not i wouldn't mess with it. it could be a can of worms, especially if you don't do it right.

it will have number on it like 31711AD610 or similar.

99 2.2L going into what, '03?

it sounds like a good alternative would be to install a used trans and then repair the gears once the trans is out. then you can sell the removed trans to off set the cost of the new one. more or less trouble.? how long would the job take if the trans was out of the car?

replaced the speedometer gears, drive gear and driven gear. were they damaged or were you just getting them to match your wheels and speedo.?

disconnect the battery over night.

back to the original issue.. maybe swap in a 95 intake, that should give you the evap lines you need.

buy a used replacement part. search for a ''steering knuckle'' or front spindle. maybe buy one from a non-rust belt state and have it shipped to your door. or if you are in a hurry, get the one closest your house. you can put in your zip and sort by distance or sort by price or search a specific area of the country. www.car-part.com

as i understand it, please correct me if i'm wrong, if you build a non-interference engine you are leaving potential energy output untapped. in other words, you get more bang for your fuel buck with an interference engine. so in these economic and energy times, who is going to build a non-interference engine.?

auto or manual trans? there are 2 holes on the engine bell housing one on each side at the 9 and 3 oclock positions. on the auto trans engines you can slide a screwdriver in from each side and rotate the crank by hand until the screw driver ''catches'' on the flex plate. do this on both sides. now you can crank on the crank bolt. both off and on. or for removal, use the starter bump method. put you socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt and brace it against the frame member at the battery. then bump the starter. this will remove it. but it will not work for installing it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125822&highlight=screwdriver+flexplate

the 4 tabs the flex bolts thread into. the distance (i told you to measure) on the trans side needs to be less than the distance on the engine side. that way there will be a slight gap between the torque converter and the flex plate when you bolt the engine to the trans. this makes sure the Torque Converter is seated right. if the distance on the trans side is greater, the trans internal oil pump will be damaged when you bolt it together. this is bad. and expensive.

you better measure, the distance between the TC mounting ears and the trans bell housing has to be less than the distance between the flex plate mounting holes and the engine bell housing.

i should have one if you need it, 20$ shipped.