johnceggleston

line up the crank sprocket first, as said. when the crank is on the timing alignment mark all 4 pistons are at mid stroke. so there is no way a valve can hit them. turn it the shortest direction to get to the timing mark, counter clock wise if necessary. then rotate the good cams to there timing alignment marks. this will be easy if they are on the passenger side, those cam are at rest, valves closed, when lined up. the driver side will be a little harder because some of those valves are ''loaded'' when lined up. but it can be done. (if you are not ready to put the belt on i would rotate the driver cams until all are at rest and continue working on the engine. this will avoid the cams / valves ''snapping'' shut.

as long as it is tight and does not wiggle it will be fine. you are not hauling the queen mary.

too long for one post, here's the rest of it.

great info from the outback forum, even if it isn't for your year, the basics apply.

i wouldn't worry too much about the baffle plate, oil separator plate. you have to pull the engine to fix it so until you have another reason to do that it would have to be a pretty big oil leak to justify an engine pull. but any time you pull the engine, address it.

i got 2 bottles from my local dealer last fall. i'd call a different dealer.

additives will not help. there is only one situation where an additive is recommended and that is for a ''slow to engage'' for the 99 - 01 auto trans. it is possible that the trans is getting ''told'' to shift up. there are several engine things that contribute to trans shifting including the TPS, throttle position sensor. i don't know enough to help beyond this, but don't assume it is all a trans issue. how does the engine run? has there been any recent service to the engine? how long have you had the car? how does it do if you start with the shifter in 1 and manually shift to 2 and 3? when the shifter is in 1 it will start in 1 and stay in 1. when the shifter is in 2 it will start in 2 and stay in 2. it will never start in 1 or shift up to 3. in 3 it will start in 1 and shift up to 2 and 3.

3 days will not make a difference, just leave 4 oz. of coolant out. i think the stuff is made by ''holts'' so you might look for that.

some one said it, the threads are in the caliper bracket, not the knuckle /hub assembly. so if one bolt is out and the other has no head, you can bang on it to loosen it up and remove it. once loose you may have to remove the bracket and the rotor at the same time. just buy a used bracket from a yard, or new from the dealer. or get the whole assembly, hub and caliper used for $35.

the only way to tell, short of looking inside, is to call the dealer with the vin. mis-fires are usually wire or plug related. NGK plugs and subaru wires. you can try moving the #4 wire to another cylinder to see if the misfire moves with the wire. if that does not do it check the compression on #4. burned exhaust vavles are not unheard of, but it is usually wires.

where in WV? once reverse goes it is just a matter of time before another gear goes. but i drove my 95 w/ no reverse for several months. you just have to plan ahead when parking. i would replace the trans. and keep driving it. nine times out of ten repairing the car you own is cheaper than replacing it. plus you know this car's history and it has at least some new parts. how does it run other than no reverse? how long have you had it? any recent service? i have a auto trans out of a 95 impreza, same trans, same final drive ratio, 100k miles, it will bolt right in, $250 cash. i'm in VA near VT, and i could meet you. unless you are in the far end of the state. swapping a trans is not an impossible task if you have someplace to work out of the weather and some jack stands. maybe rent a trans jack if one is available. but for $450 in labor i would consider letting them do it if for no other reason than a quick turn around. it would take me all weekend to do it, probably more.

correct. i think the subaru axles are probably in the 250 - 300$ range, but i'm not sure.

call the trucking companies, they'll quote you better than UPS. but even then you'll be quoted a walk in price which will be higher than a commercial account that ship stuff.

ok, this sounds like a pretty good deal.................. BUT, if it needs a head gasket would that make it a bad deal for you? the 2.5L engine from the late 90s has a tendency to blow head gaskets. it is hard to imagine that an engine that is 15 years old has not had them done but you never know. look for really black gunk in the radiator overflow bottle. ask about the head gaskets. ask about overheating of any kind. and if possible take it for a 30 minute test drive on the hiway. around town driving may nor cause it to over heat.

there are lots of 97 legacys with the 2.2L engine. but the 97 ''GT'' was an upscale car with a 2.5L engine and ''sportier '' set up. alloy wheels, power antenna, sun roof, roof rack on the wagon i think, hood scoop, maybe a factory cd player and / or leather. probably some other stuff too. edit: remote entry. mine looks like this, but with different wheels .

i would look for open vac hoses first. there is a large one, ~1 inch dia., that connects the plastic air intake to the PCV? and it is hard to see since it is underneath the plastic tubing. but if that is open it will be hard to start and will not idle without a lot of throttle. or check the plastic ''T'' that is on the other end of that hose. i have seen them cracked. good luck.

actually i think the first thing you should do is count the round ''lobes'' on the front of the engine. two lobes on each side will mean a 2.5L engine and the seller just doesn't know what he's selling. and one lobe on each side means 2.2L engine.

do both rad fans come on when you start the car? do you hear a lot of relays clicking at start up? if yes, then check the green ''test'' connector under the dash. dis-connect them. they are not supposed to be connected and they will throw a boat load of codes when they are.(i would look at them first and if they are connected, not tell the seller. he may change his mind about the deal.buy the car and then dis-connect them.) my second guess would be a bad wire connector under the hood, passenger side at the rear of the engine. unplug all the connectors in that area, check to see if the pins are all in good condition and re-connect. this is way too many codes to be real, unless he has been driving it for years and collecting codes as he went. how many miles? how long since the 2.2L swap was done? (97 GT came with a 2.5L engine) who did the swap ? has it ever run right since the swap was done? what is your atv worth? the ej22 engine is a great one. it would have to be really bad to throw it away. EDIT: how does it run???????

you have the 2 most likely causes above. do the compression test, either one or more cylinders will be bad due to burnt valves or 2 cylinders will on the same side will be bad due to the timing being off, jump t-belt. then check the timing belt. it is due at 210k miles or 105k after the last change.

that is the only plug listed in the owners manual for the '01 outback VDC H6. as i pointed out there are lots of discount coupons at that site. so maybe only purchase $50 worth on your first order (40%) and put the balance on a second order with a different discount or the same coupon if it is $50. you just need to do the math. on my last order i threw in an oil filter so i could get a better discount. i knew i'd use it eventually. i have used some discount coupons several times over the last year. i assume the same is true of this one. is claims to expire on 12/31/11.

i just bought spark plugs for my H6 from advance auto for $8.76 each. order on line and enter the discount code ''retmenot123'' and get $20 off the total cost. NGK part number 7654, PLFR6A-11, retail price $12.09 each w/ discount $8.76 each savings .... $3.33 each ~27% by the way, this $20 discount works for any purchase (except fluids like oil and ATF) over 50$ placed on line. (i pick up in store to save on shipping but shipping is free for orders of $75 or more.) lots of other discount coupons at http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com happy motoring.

subaru wires at the time of the swap, 30k ago. what is the life of a set of subaru wires. in reviewing my above post i realized that plugs, wires and air filter (~$60) couldn't hurt. and i'll need all 3 eventually. but it would be nice address the problem area directly.

nope, definitely an engine issue. cleaning the MAF seems easy with the right cleaner, but the IAC seems a little difficult, challenging even. and the ects, can you reach it with the intake in place?

thanks, auto trans, edited.

it feels almost like the engine is stalling out, but that is mostly a reaction to my leaning into the acceleration when there isn't any. it only last for a second and only for the first couple of starts from stop. i did the ej22 swap about 30k miles ago and everything was new then, plugs, wires, t-belt, idlers, water pump, ..... replaced the knock last year. oil chnges every 5k. the things i did not /have not addressed aer the maf, the iac or the o2 sensors. no cels. at first i thought it was the o2 sensor, but at first start up when cold, it is running in ''open loop'' so the o2 has no input. right? as it warms up the hesitation goes away, or lessens enough so it isn't noticeable. so what would cause trouble when cold, open loop, but not once warm?