johnceggleston

subrus are not the only ones with extra valve trains and head gaskets. there are lots of other engines with 2 head gaskets, V6s and V8s. probably not too many V4s though??. does any one make a straight 6 any more?

+1 what he said. the other thing to test if you haven't yet is the small wire on the starter solenoid on the starter. pull it off the connector and put a test light on it, if it lights when you turn the key then the safety switch is good but something in the starter is bad. probably the contacts. below is a link for a relay fix that may work without having to replace the contacts. in my limited experience, the safety switches don't often fail, it's a simple switch. but the solenoid contacts wear every time you start the car. and there are lots of examples of those causing a no start problem. but first you need to isolate the problem. starterrelay repair this fix may correct a no start issue. and in my opinion it is easier than replacing the contacts in the starter solenoid. starterrelay, starterrelayfix, starter relay fix

some changes may have been made in the 95 because of odb, but the duty c pin did not change.. cut it and see. good luck.

i didn't re-read these but a search for "tcu* pinout" found three. it's a start. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1395623 http://www.main.experiencetherave.co..._I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.co..._I-O_page2.jpg .

i think the dip stick part numbers are the same, ej22 and ej25. i'll have to check. the ej25 pan is certainly larger, maybe deeper, and holds more oil. but i'll bet the pick up is the same, i'll have to check. and i'll bet the full level of the oil is the same distance from the bottom of the block in both. EDIT: yep, the same: click on usa legacy usage info. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/11140AA046/

i think we have a winner. the no park is very likely a front axle problem as stated.

etrailer.com or something like that.

my friends daughter is in college in greensboro and she needs a subie mechanic. she took her, my old, 97 obw to goodyear with a clunk in the steering. they said it was an inner tie rod, ~$300 with alignment. but that didn't fix it. now they want +$600 for a new rack and alignment. i talked to the guy he seems nice enough and agreed not to charge her for the tie rod since it was not needed. but since he has misdiagnosed it once already i was doubtful of his new plan. besides, we know that these racks don't fail often. my current guess is that it is the other inner tie rod . but that is just a guess. and i have never even done one or seen a bad one. last summer they replaced a wheel bearing and said it also needed a caliper, bracket, pads and rotors. has any one ever seen a wheel bearing so bad that it wore a caliper? so if you know a good shop in greensboro, please speak up.

these are really straight forward. nothing odd about them. loosen the nut, adjust, tighten the nut. just make sure the rocker is relaxed when you do it.

opposedforces.com goes back to 93 with the imprezas. the legos and the imprezas trans are the same for the same year. subaru was too small a company to have a different trans for each line. most FWD trans in the early 90s were 3.7 final drive ratio, i'm pretty sure for the auto trans at leats.. i think, the auto trans FWD in 95 went to a 3.9 final drive ratio. theoretically, there was a FWD available in 97. the option is listed on the car-part.com site. but i have never heard of any one who had one here in the US. i don't remember if the listed option was an auto or a manual trans. with a manual trans, you only need to worry about the clutch and, apparently, the spline count. on car-part.com you may need to search each year to see if there is a trans available. when searching the late 90s, they list each year as a different part because the ''code number'' changes with most years, but in reality there is no difference between 96 - 98 auto trans. sorry to be always talking about auto trans, but that is what i know.

left front wheel bearing. veering the right puts more load on the left front. if this were not part of the problem i would have guessed bad tire. so i'll take wheel bearing for 200$ alec.

www.car-part.com i'm not a MT guy so i'm only so so on the mechanics, but all the engine and trans bell housings are the same size (unless the trans was not form an impreza.) so the parts should swap the same way a ej25 flex plate will swap onto a ej22 engine. right? any FWD trans will / should swap in. right? i have thought for years that you could use an AWD auto trans in a FWD car, if you opend the extension housing and removed the rear output shaft with the drum attached. then just blank off the hole from the inside. probably not as easy as it sounds and probably not even practical, and the trans mounts are probably different. but there are a lot of AWD trans floating around. just a thought. and i don't know about manual trans. edit: if you remove the drive shaft from an manual trans AWD car, does the gear oil spill out like the fluid in the auto trans AWD car???

it seems to me at this point it does not much matter. #4 is shot regardless of the cause. we can speculate, but don't think anything is going to change what's next. time to pull the engine / head and look inside. a burnt valve would have air escaping out the exhaust, right? not the crank case. typically it is more efficient to replace rather than rebuild a bottom end on these engines. (unless you are working by the hour for a boss who does not care or is unaware. and i don't think that describes your boss.) look for a car or engine, cheap, that has a busted timing belt. (ej25 96 - 04, watch out for ''overheated'' engines, they can develop rod knock.) use the short block and slap on your heads. and off you go.

i know this is a long shot, has any one compared or swapped a 98 obw rear trans mount into an 01 obw H6?? i'm replacing the trans in the H6 and the rear mount is split. i have a 98 on a parts car an hour away. i don't want to make the drive for nothing. part numbers 41022AE121 - 98 obw - $72 41022AE12B - 01 H6 obw - $48 not many yards list them at car-part.com . i'm going to call local yards that have an outback auto trans listed to see if they have what i need. the H6 is the same as the obw in 01. thanks john

on a side note: i thought the main ingredient in ''dry gas'' the stuff you use to get water out of your gas tank, was alcohol. if so, there should not be any chance of water in the underground tanks that have 10% ethanol. right??

male or female? auto or manual trans? miles? do all your tires match, brand, size, tread, inflation?

they are when the toothed idler sprocket seizes up. check it.

where do you buy them.??

they will fit with out any problem but they will be about 1.83 inches smaller in diameter. this will cause the car to sit about 0.92 inches lower, closer, to the ground. they are basically the size of the legacy ''L'' tires, 185/70/14. google ''tire size calculator'' . edit : FYI almost any subaru 15, 16, inch wheels, with 5 x 100 bolt pattern, will fit your car. the 14'' wheels from the legacy will not fit.

it sounds like the trans is in limp mode, third gear only. i would check the connectors on the passenger side rear of the engine and the TCU connections. some thing is undone or maybe some bent pins in a connector. the largest connector is for the trans.

possible side effect to look out for, if dealers are selling fewer new cars, they may turn to less than honest repair practices for replacement revenue. always be careful with a dealer, but especially now. imho.

parts on the car (even cars made in US have Japanese parts) that came from Japan are contaminated with Radioactive nuclear fallout, ..... Japan has really been hush hush on this issue. maybe, i hope not for subaru's sake. but wouldn't that likely affect all japanese car parts? toyota, nissan, lexus, infinity, honda etc.

then start there. they are cheap.

with no ATF pressure, no oil pump action, the transfer clutch does not engage. (jack up a rear wheel and you can spin it by hand.) but also with no ATF / oil pumping there is no real lubrication for the bearings in the extension housing. so you run the risk of burning up what ever bearings are there. unlike a manual trans where the gears and shafts are bathed in oil, the auto trans relys on the pump to move the fluid which also lubes the bearings. i had an auto trans AWD towed about 1.5 miles with the rear wheels down with no damage. i didn't know any better then. and it was a very short distance.

if you can't press in the thumb button on the shifter i would start there. if it does not depress you can't shift the lever. there could be a coin or something down in there. the shifter knob / button can be a little messy with grease that is in there but it is a really simple set up. but it can be re-assembled incorrectly. remove the console covers and release the lever by hand. if it shifts and drives then, it is just your solenoid / lock mechanism. several possible components, solenoid, relay, inhibitor switch, shifter button, brake safety switch .......