johnceggleston

turn on the defrost or AC, both will remove moisture from the air and eventually dry it out. does your AC work? moisture condenses on the warm moist side of the glass. change the temp or the moisture content and the condensation goes away. it was probably just a freak set of conditions. i have had it happen to me.

building on what fairtax said, there is a chance that the metal lines from the ej25 intake will bolt on to the ej22 intake. i don't really know. at the very least they will show you where the new hoses should tie in.

wait a minute. when searching car-part.com for a 97 intake, it returns both 97 and 98 intakes. so i would search for a 96 or a 95 unless the yard is close enough for you to go look at it and see if it has the evap lines coming out on the passenger side front. i would hate for you to buy a 97 only to find it was not what you wanted.

www.car-part.com, search for the intake from a 96 or 97 auto trans ej22 car. (40$ near me, not sure about boston.) or ask in the ''wanteds'' here. good luck.

the 97 obw probably has the canister in the front under the hood next to the ABS unit, passenger side front. (but it could have it in the rear behind the passenger side tire.) i have swapped ej22s into a 97 obw and 98 obw. i noticed when pulling the ej25s that the 97 had 2 small metal lines coming out from the passenger side front, under the intake for the canister. the 98 obw did not have these 2 small metal lines. the difference was in the intake. (swap a 98 intake onto a 97 ej25 and you have a 98 ej25.) so i would guess that your ej22 is a 98 and does not have these 2 small metal lines since the canister was in the rear for the 98. so either swap in a 97 ej22 intake, or tap into the lines that ''return'' to the rear of the car and connect them to the front canister. hope this helps.

it would be really helpful to know what year the ej22 engine is and what year the car is???

it is doubtful the valves burned while the belt was a couple of teeth off. but if it was out of time far enough, you could have bent valves. what was the compression after you reset the timing.? if it is good, then no valve damage.

the struts are probably old, but if not they are a nice addition to the height of the brighton. it makes you car about 2 inces higher. they bolt right in springs and all. the adjustable height driver seat is also nice. the older i get, the harder it is to drive, climb out of , a 95 legacy L. especially when i'm used to an outback. wheels also if you like the look. but larger outback tires will affect your speedo.

yes, an o2 sensor can be old and working poorly and not throw a code. bad fuel mileage can be caused by that or a bad knock sensor. i would re-do the wires first, they are easier. but plugs and wires are probably the cause of the misfire. move the #2 wire, driver side front, to the passenger rear, #3. see if the misfire moves with it. a flashing CEL is an indicator of a condition that could 'potentially' damage the cats. especailly if it goes on for a long time and is not addressed.

i replaced my radiator recently and i had done an engine swap about 2 years, 25k miles, ago. so i wanted to reuse the coolant. i bought a big flexible bucket or tub (purple) from lowes that holds about 3 gals. put it under the t-stat housing and loosened the lower hose at the t-stat end. i caught almost all of the coolant. then i made my wife strip off her pantyhose and i strained the coolant as i poured it into a couple of 1 gal jugs. then i gave the pantyhose back.

the gauge is suppose to be in the middle. not at or near C. something is wrong with the t-stat. and maybe the radiator. i bet the car was overheating and the previous owner modified the t-stat so it would not over heat. it could be the head gaskets (look for gunk in the over flow bottle and or bubbles) but probably the radiator maybe the pump. check the t-stat. i pulled the t-stat out of a 90 nissan truck once and ran it that way for a year. i never knew a car could run that cool. and the gauge sat on cold almost all of the time.

the triangle plug in the first pic is the o2 sensor, i think. the o2 sensor is located on the exhaust after the y-pipe meets the front cat. look for the wire. i have no idea what the other pics show.

what other auto trans will swap into an 01 outback H6 w/ VDC auto trans? is the VDC any good? does the H6 burn oil? are the oil leaks the same as the ej25? is the harness in the car the same as other outbacks of similar years? could swapping the TCU allow for another trans? any info would be helpful? thanks

probably about 20% less, but it sure will be quick off the line. a 3.9 will give you about 10 % less mpg.

i think the SVX has an 11 tooth pinion,(legacy and outback have 9 or 10) with a 39 tooth ring gear for a 3.5454 final drive ratio. iirc. that's really different than the outback. plus it has a viscous LSD ??? a 3.9 auto trans from an early 90s (92 - 94?) would be a lot closer. http://opposedforces.com/parts/svx/us_c12/type_2/train/differential_individual/

that is a very interesting piece of information. thanks. i have heard that a 10w 40, havoline i think, was good for keeping it quiet.

if it is a sedan, usually there is a ''trunk release cancel'' switch / lever on the inside of the trunk latch mechanism. look for it. this will allow or not allow the trunk release lever, by the gas door opener, to open the trunk or not.

if you are concerned, remove the wheel and spray paint the axle end / nut with black Derusto paint. or day glo pink.

the tool that came with the car should work. at least the tool for the year and model car the wheels came off of should fit. no way subaru sold a car with a lug wrench that did not fit.

sorry i didn't respond earlier. i did not realize it was a problem for you. the one i removed was the same. i don't know why, but that's the way it was / is. install it and drive on. 97 GT stock radiator. TOP BOTTOM

i don't mean to be a jerk, but i find this hard to believe. surely it is leaking from somewhere else and just collecting there. but of course i have not seen the block or the oil leak so i will watch and listen. jb weld will work great of you can get it to bond with the surface of the aluminum. maybe rough it up with some coarse sand paper.

yeah, and put black electrical tape over the CEL and the temp gauge. out of sight out of mind.

the hose is 5/16" or the mm equivalent. so not 3/8's.

reboot. did you try this: http://opposedforces.com/parts

this is kind of what i was wondering. since this is likely to be a once in a lifetime repair unless you have a shop. buy the tool and make your repair. then ''rent'' the tool to the next user for the full retail replacement price. after their repair they return it for a refund less what ever rental fee. any way just a thought. i pray i will never need it.