propane

Starting to make sense.. I checked the original crank pulley w/ the 6 tabs - the one with timing mark is 180 degrees out from key-way, In fact the California emission pulley is also 12 o'clock to key-way six o'clock. Either I bumped crank position when removing pulley, or it was off mark. Anyone care to weigh in? I will turn motor over twice, to check timing marks as well as look for valve piston interference thx

Question is (edit) what timing marks to use on Crankshaft sprocket? 146K on OB 5spd , emissions sticker says Calif, & other compliant.. Am swapping in an unknown yr earlier(?) 2.5 (SOHC) maybe it came out of a 99 Forester, was an auto, run when pulled as per my engine guy, plugs were right color etc. !st snag was the engine harness - car has MAP sensor, assume eng had MAF, so I swapped over intake, NO start, asked around was told its was prolly diff crank wheel sender (& cam ) they were diff, some like 8 teeth on donor eng, , original has like 30... changed those out (both cam &crank sprocket), ready to put new timing belt & idlers in, had lined up the cam marks before swapping crank sprocket, new belt lines up on cams.. Heres my question- crank sprocket marks dont match.. belt mark is at about 10:00 oclock, key way on crank is like 4 :00 oclock. my manual only goes to 98 (Haynes) Don't want any surprises with timing off thx,

I did a 96 Legacy rack recently, & separated the tie rod at the steering knuckle because that’s what was on the replacement rack, and kept some kind of toe in alignment from previous car. Also remember a skid plate with 4 12mm nuts , bolts that is dropped out of the way for the rack to come out. Yeah, the manifold studs are threaded into the block, They use a fairly low torque 22 ft lbs I think, so it shouldn’t be too hard to grab on with visegrips if things go south, frequently the stud and nut come out together. On finish, leave the fill cap fairly loose, hang’n by a thread cause the air in system has to go somewhere and needs to escape from reservoir as it is being replaced by steering fluid. Then cap it after it has filled, and the pump stops making cavitation sounds going lock to lock- to dipstick level.

How many miles on car? auto transmission? When it overheats, have you (or been asked by mechanics) seen if the coolant has been overflowing into plastic reservoir? And subsequently thermo siphoning back into radiator (when eng is shut off.?) this is a function of radiator cap working properly Coolant ( same type) should be kept at least to min level on side of overflow (yellow cap). What basis is the assumption of HG leaking(asked earlier)

Closing this thread as well, I replaced entire steering knuckle on Passenger front side( where the noise was coming from) rusty, clunking bearing once off the axle, by spinning the inner race with finger. That was the howl. as many of you correctly identified. It still has a little gear whine in 1st, 2nd which as Fair tax said in another thread was typical based on wear. Why did I think it was maybe rear diff? I was "snake bit" since once I changed trannies for a similar noise, when it remained, decided to change diffs (same ratio) which was back feeding its problems to the front. Used steering rack worked out well. it bled its air out OK Swapped exhaust quieted it down, couldn't even see the leak. This car is far more noisy & tinny sounding than my 91 Legacy LSi they say generals tend to fight battles based on the last war. No ABS light occurs (other than start up) after unplugging everything chasing electrical problem unrelated to howl key symptom was when driving the 96 legacy, on long sweeping curves, the howl did not change note, as differentials let axles & wheels spin at different speeds around corners.and there should have been a significant noise change. still have a dragging caliper, ABS comes on only drivers front wheel when I jam the brake and barely skid only that tire. dead caliper on opposite side? thx all for helping me keep it on the road here in Colorado, they don't rust out, and I would put the 90s Legacies up against the later model stuff for engineering and durability. Back East, rust finishes off many Subies.

I took it to Auto Zone to have codes read; sorta expected something like the 0325 knock sensor, other one baffles me, 0180 I think, which was fuel temp range exceeded or something. all of the reading of the factory service manual, I do not recall any temp reading hardware?? with the fuel pump running so much, did this trigger the code?? Am thinking of clearing the codes w/ battery disconnect. It has a "low oil rattle on start up, maybe setting the knock sensor code, or I buy a new one from Amazon for a $15, looks like I'm almost done with this part of the reconditioning, to put this back on the road. I'm still getting a dragging front brake, it releases some of time

Can close out this topic- It was the main engine harness unplugged, left barely hanging by last person who "worked" on the car. After finding the rear diff drain plug, & oil drain plug finger loose, dripping I shoulda caught the style of maintenance. I must have nudged it when securing the O2 sensor cable OEM style so it doesn't tangle with the CV axle. Not having the temp sensor connected must have been the trigger for the gauge to go max on. I had to use another speedo cluster, original was in bad shape & temp needle was half twisted off. fan ran because of green connecters at first, then ?? because of temp no reading??? fuel pump because of main relay grounding it ??? Only thing I can think of to be gained from this "wild goose chase" was that no fuses ever blew, no melted harnesses, needle on temp kept trying to bury itself past max. Follow me over to the "differential howl thread" tomorrow it was front bearing- wheel bearings on Now that was something learned. THx for the FSM link, & all the comments,

swapped ECU wasn't the problem same symptom the key has to be that fuel pump runs w/ key off --- Does it have its own controller/ timer? thx Down loaded Factory service manual, nice but I couldn't find a wiring diagram for engine control, Update: didn't scroll down in FSM PDF, its all there !! thx like in my 1991 FSM I realize the diff as OBDII was introduced in 1996 . Someone suggested to check for fused wires underneath of main wiring block in eng compartment. Was thinking of recheck main & fuel relays under power to see if their is cross over from switched voltage. Dont know where to start looking for "pinched grounds" as Gloyale suggested. I suppose the next trouble shooting step would be to trace power supply circuits to afflicted components, looking for a common denominator Update: pump doesn't run if I have had the battery discoed- only after switching on - off ... that sounds like a relay flipping on & being burnt internally I need to check voltage (back probing the connectors for main Fuel pump) relays are cheap to sub in - Can't hurt at this point. key off, fuel pump runs, temp swings max up; key on Rev pegs to 500 RPM; no longer starts found battery discharged probably from fuel pump running all night; gave it a battery charger boost no start gauges go wild changed brain boxes , no difference Update: No check eng light, bulb good, wondering if I botched an O2 (front) connector, & that is tied to the light.

took the whole bracket out holding both relays , after unplugging. I wonder if Subaru's engineer;s thinking was that relays buried up high were more on less fail safe? (I only tested for continuity + for power circuit, no ohms for switched circuits (2 and 1) By unplugging both, the temp gauge was deprived of power. Tachometer continued to jump to 500RPM w/o relays plugged in What I forgot in the above summary was the absence of the check engine light which comes out of ECM as does tach... my 1991 FSM shows them connected I think. I'm about 90% sure the brain box got spiked by battery charger jump start. A local pull n save has a 1/2 off sale this Friday. Will post results .

Provided the test included ground as well as power, it may be bad. The next step, if you don't want to drive to a dealership, is what many here recommend is www.car-part.com most ship. I (or traipse thru a pull and save yard).

Summary of Problem: started after I tried to start car (was in a hurry to test drive to see if suspension fixes solved diff howling) broke my rule and used the charger to boost waay dead battery & attempt to crank over car, subbed good battery since then.( something drained this don’t know.) green wires had been connected along, was “going to get to those” after driving it. That’s when the fuel pump & main fan started running in off,along with temp gauge pegging hi, rev jumping to 500RPM, .. but go dead in "on " position, (subbed in diff ignition switch, unhooked green connecters) Car didn’t start BTW. same pattern repeats once I disconnect the neg battery and start over While I’m chasing down fuel pump relay, I wonder what its saying with the main fan (& gauge peg) involvement? Did I fry the main relay? ECM?

Yeah, I disconnected Alt. plug and main charging wire. Only other gauge is fuel and it is not involved , no radio noise, EDIT: yes there is a brief static sound when beginning the test. not sure what symptoms there would for radio or lights – cant see any diff. The thing that is unusual is the instant jump of the rev to 500RPM (eng. Not running) and Max ohm swing by the temp gauge,(as well as fuel pump) ONCE the battery has been re connected at the neg.edit: & HAVE cycled the key once, doesnt quit until the bat is discoed again. I have a 1991 FSM to see where the fuel pump relay is unless somebody knows off hand, It seems like something gets tripped & then stays energized feeding power to its self, plus the fuel pump & temp gauge, rev counter Edit: previously, when doing a compression test, I unplugged the coil - not sure if this a good or bad practice? also, the drivers low beam plug for headlight was melted, I seperated out the wire, to fix later, noticed the whole plug had been chopped in, using wire nuts. EDIT : found the relay for fuel pump, will take it out & test it per haynes manual instructions

No joy by disconnecting Alt, I notice the rev counter jumps to 500RPM , opposite of the temp gauge pegging max high to max low outside of is range. fuel pump still runs in off, nil in on. no white connectors I see , I rem a thread where a pair of black connecters in addition to the green are mentioned Still trying to narrow it down.

When you say the fan isn’t working, do you mean that the car is overheating? If you haven’t seen it operating, it could be the system is OK, it just doesn’t need an auxiliary fan . Modern engines are designed to operate within a narrow temp range,& usually the Aux fan is turned on when AC is operating and a whole list of conditions are checked off by the controller, you might find more info by doing a search for sub fans, air conditioner,

Battery terminals were cleaned when new battery subbed in, this car used to start instantly, & w replacement battery cranks fine. I pretty sure its not getting fuel since the pump only runs when off. Doubt its getting spark, either. grounds are good, this is dry climate & was garaged for entire time. (have carpet back & will visually check ECU) I subbed in a known good used ignition switch. Same symptom. Further, since I disconnect the battery each interval when trying something new, I noticed that it doesnt act up till the key on triggers something. . THis flips something on to power both pump & fan, when I then roll it back to off, but not in on. I wonder If I fried the ECU when using the battery charger 60 AMP start mode. thx