_Aramchek_
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Posts posted by _Aramchek_
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500's will work, as will the PIAA 520's. I would highly suggest that you do not splice into teh stock wiring. The lights will not be as brigh as they should be
As for installing them in the stock location, you need to remove all of the OEM bracket. Since this seems to be a question that comes up on many of the forums I read, I will try to get some pictures and a how to up this weekend. It is really hard to explain it without pictures.
That would be wonderfull,I've always heard everyone say about the 500's but I'm not really up for trying to figure out how to hook them up through trial and error.
I can't belive that the stock replacements are so bloody expensive.
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*bumped*
Someone has to have something to say.=/
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So bascically,since a single passenger side replacement fog light it $100+ everywhere that I've seen I'm wondering what,if any,aftermarket fog lights will go in the stock locations without too much modifying or time.
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i'd say 10 or so.
Its a decently capable grocery getter...not a sports car.
my 5 speed 96 is about 8 seconds more or less,but would be quicker if I didn't have to shift into third.
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how many miles you two ?
nipper
I'm at 191k miles,my clicking sound is definately coming from the general area of the wheel itself and usually only happens when I'm turning.
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I'm getting a clicking sound ONLY when I turn left and the car is cold. It sounds like a cv joint going bad. It sounds like it is coming from the front left tire area.
Any ideas.
Thank you to all that respond, John
Hmm I'm getting the same thing too.
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my shifter's the same way(floppy when in gear)i'm gonna have to check,maybe i have the same problem.
i don't have one on my steering column,does anyone know where mine is??! :-pIt looks to me like someone had the shifter apart and just didn't remember to put the nut back on or something,but it's a good place to start...the nut on yours could be really loose or something.
Well the switch is kind of behind the steering wheel on top of the column for me,dunno about in other subaru's as this is my first one.
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If there is any part of the bolt sticking THROUGH the nut, you are OK. Even one thread is enough.
If it isn't long enough to stick through, then you might have a problem.
But this thing is loaded in shear anyway, so it might do for a while.
I would worry about it working loose, either way. Blue Loctite would hold it nicely.
Ah yeah,Loctite! forgot all about that stuff.
There are probably 2-4 threads through,so that calms my worries a bit.
I would have used the bolt from the top of the linkage down in the lower bit except I live in a somewhat rural area and couldn't readily purchase a nut that would work on the old bolt since I couldn't drive anywhere.
The bolts I got do look pretty comparable to the one from the top of the linkage though.
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Good for you Armachek, sounds like you're done to me.
Now, get back when you can't rurn off your parking lights, and we'll explain all about the 'Subaru Virgin Switch'.
Welcome to the board.
You mean the switch up on top of the steering column?,yeah that got me for a few minutes one night heheh.
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Ok,I was driving up a hill today and went to downshift only to discover that I couldn't.
After getting stopped and taking a look I discovered that the bolt/pin/w/e holding the linkage had broken or came loose.
After taking a good look at it I figured I could probably fix this myself,I called my grandfathers mechanic for some advice beforehand to see if there was a specific bolt or whatever that I needed for it,he didn't know off-hand but told me a case hardened bolt would probably work at least long enough for him to look over it in a few days when he has the time.
So after finding a good enough size bolt and all I managed to put it together,now at this point I noticed that there really isn't all that much of the bolt sticking through the nut.
My question is,do you think that really will be ok for a couple days or should I be worried?
The bolt IS as tight as I could get it and it seems to me that there really shouldn't be too much stress on the bolt as long as I don't shift like a madman,so will that be ok for a while?
Oh and before this there was a lot of play in the shifter,when I took it apart I noticed that the bolt on the shifter side didn't even have a nut on it:banghead: ,so I replaced that with the same nut bolt combo and now it feels like a completely different car when shifting.:cool:
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They might be bigger, but I would go with a accord or camry if you need size. I have never seen any American sedan even with a 3.8 go 200k or over, esp. with orginal motor. American cars tend to fall apart at 100k.
My previous car was a 1992 oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 3.3 v-6 and it had roughly 160k miles on it and ran strong,used no oil,ran very cool,the most work it ever needed was tires and a new muffler and to top it off would destroy my 2.2 5spd outback anywhere over 70mph...and i think that it actually got better gas milage than my outback too:D ...that car was bulletproof and I abused it as much as I could too.
Granted it was *nowhere* near as fun to drive as the outback is,but my point is that it would still be going strong now and well into the 200kmile future if some idiot on their cell phone hadn't ran into me.
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I put aftermarket tweeters where the factory ones go (the little triangle at the front corner of the fron side windows). The plastic triangle pops right out. You'd need to take the door panel off to do the wiring, though.
I've seen the OEM tweeters on eBay a bunch of times, but why not get some good aftermarket component speakers (midrange for the door, a crossover, and a separate tweeter) to make the whole deal sound better?
Actually I want just the panel if possible,as I do plan on mounting a different tweeter in it,I just wondered how easily I could switch the panels or if it just wouldn't work.
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Ok my car does not have the tweeters installed in the door,I was wondering though if it's possible to get the panels/tweeters from one that did come with that option and how easy it would be to install them?
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Limited, and some of the following have downsides associated with them or are otherwise controversial - listed in the order I think I would do them;
Lighter alloy wheels (multiple benefits)
'snorkusectomy'
lighter flywheel if manual tranny (but stay over 10 lbs or so)
lighter (probably not underdriven) pulley set if auto tranny
perhaps free-er flowing exhaust (though you may lose torque down low in exchange for a little high-rev HP)
there MAY be some cams/internals available but at that point you may as well swap in a 2 liter turbo.
A lot depends on what you want to do with the car. If you want to pull harder from the line, you could even get smaller diameter tires - though your speedometer/odometer will be wrong and highway mileage would likely suffer.
just my $0.02
So,um...how easy is it to drop a 2.2 turbo into it then?...I have no bills and have good enough income I geuss.
Oh and what is a "snorkusectomy"?
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What can I do to it to get a bit more power from the Ej22e engine?
What are my options?
how many miles does your Ej22 have??
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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'96 Legacy outback,also just hit 190k miles runs strong but has an oil leak somewhere.
And a rusted fuel filler tube,and just got new rotors,and a new fuel pump and and and and and....*sigh* I love the car but it breaks too much.