Subaru Jim Maple Ridge

Hate to even bring up the possibilities, but it could be a small intake leak, or, more hated, a notch out on the timing belt. Just thinking more of what can happen when that work is done. Yes, a plug could have hit the floor and closed the gap up etc, but it usually a bit closer to the work done. Good luck, hope you find your gremlin. Jim

Hello again. Absolutely no luck finding Trans X in BC. Does anyone know where we can get it, or do we have to take a trip? Is it still called the same? Thx Jim

Thank you gentlemen, will try to source Trans X in Canada. Will let you know how we made out. Thx Jim

You might also want to check the wheel bearing, the ball joint and the strut itself.

Once the initial delay is over going into any forward gear, the tranny shifts and drives smoothly and normally. There is no slippage at all. No burnt smell to the fluid, and only 128 kms on the car. Does not do the delay thing unless the shift lever has passed through neutral. Thx Jim

tranny revs as if in neutral for a couple of seconds before grabbing in 1,2,3,or D. There is no delay in reverse. Common? Just a part or get rid of tranny? Thx Jim

Specialty in North Van is likely your best bet, unless you feel like driving out to Langley, Wolfe is happier to see the older cars than Docksteaders is. CEL is probably nothing that will stop you from heading out for the weekend anyway. Take your time.

Tried searching threads, no luck. Should be hundreds. Anyway, question is, how likely is valve damage if a belt died on the highway? Can feel the motor stopping between valves now, heads have already been shaved once. Thx Jim :-\

99 OBW 2.5 DOHC OBDII called up egr flow. Egr was dirty but not plugged, but tube is. Any simple, easy magic tricks, or just find the time to take it all apart and clean it properly? Thx Jim

Slim chance, but easy to check. A plugged gas cap allows a vacuum to build in the tank, making it hard for the pump to deliver enough pressure. All you have to do is pull over right away, shut it down and open the cap. If you hear air sucking in, you found it. Good luck.

We are about to put a '92 2.2 into an early '80's I/O. Would like to talk if someone has already done this. Thanks Jim .

Problem solved. Turns out there is a switch located at the bottom of the shift lever, on the rod for the shift button. The car sat for a least a year. Lube sprayed directly down the lever loosened everything up, had to jiggle the shifter around park occasionally, but now key returns to lock position every time. Thanks for all the help. Jim

Shift mech seems good, is totally in park. Is there an interlock?, cable?, adjustable? Don't want to destroy a good column only to find out that it was something stupid. Thx Jim

Finally get the motor together and in, all hooked up. Sounds sweet. But ignition key will not turn all the way back to lock. Acc, on and start are still in the proper position, but cannot remove key. Is there a trick? Don't have the owners manual so pls advise. Thanks Jim.

Precisely. Thank you. Will try to find a thermo bonnet with the hose nipple. Thx again. Jim.

The heater hose goes in the right side looking from the front, and the hose for the cooler looks as if it should go into the left side. I would have to know the model and year of the donor vehicle to get the proper WP.

The motor was from a crunch, bought off the floor. I am only using the block, putting the DOHC heads on it. I just thought that if this was a plus, I wouldn't chuck it. I already bought the new WP for a '99 OBW, but no place for the extra hose to go. Thx for the info. Jim

Bought a 2.5 SOHC to replace a 2.5 DOHC in a '99 OBW. I do not know the year, or the donor vehicle. I do know that it has 61k kms marked on it and cost me $300. It has what appears to be an oil cooler between the block and the oil filter. The water goes from the port normally used for a block heater to the rump roast'y, then towards the water pump. The pump is damaged so I do not know if it returned to the thermo bonnet or to another return hose, or to the pump itself. My question is; Is this factory for some other or future model? Worth keeping? and if so what should I order a water pump for? I know, more than 1 question. Anyway, thanks in advance for your thoughts.

New belt in, still lots of noise. Pulled the end covers, nothing amiss. Time to pull it out a`nd do the autopsy. Do oil pumps blow up on those things?

The intake cam is advanced by 1 notch on the left, and the exhaust cam is advanced by 1 notch on the right. It makes a screeching sound which could be air sucking past a closed intake valve, and also a rapid, intermittent, light clattering noise, probably from the valve train. I will put in a new belt but I'm pretty skeptical at this point.

Just bought a '99 outback with a 2.5. Makes lots of noises when running. Timing marks are off on 2 cams, but only by one notch each. I have a couple of good running 2.2's, ( from a '90 and a '92), will they drop in or do I have to tear this thing down and repair it? Is the '99 2.5 any good to begin with, or should I be looking for a different year? Thx. Jim

The rad is a 2 core. I put in a new rad because this is my own car, and I had the engine out anyway to switch the auto to DR. The antifreeze is 100%, only so that when you get a leak and have to fill your rad from a nearby creek with a coffee mug, you are diluting the mix towards the optimum, not away from it. I once blew a heater hose in -10*, filled the rad by stuffing in snow, and still had enough of a mix for it not to freeze before I made the 200 miles home. This problem may be maddenning result of a bunch of little things, like maybe the winch on top of the bumper. But it did the same thing last year as an auto without the winch. Thanks for the input.

You can shift on the fly if you want, just watch the revs. Hard shifting is usually caused by mismatched tires or uneven tire pressure. When it is stuck in 4WD, you can release the pressure on the gears by backing up with the front tires straight while holding pressure down on the transfer lever. You may want to check that the ratio on the rear diff matches the tranny. Someone might have converted your car from an auto and not changed out the 3.77 rear. Good Luck As for larger tires. yes, they stress everything. Wheel bearings, CVs, clutches and brakes. You just have to decide for yourself if they are worth it.

The fan is wired direct, the thermostat pin has been replaced by a 3/16 inch hole and I have no AC. The idea about the air sounds interesting, but the other cars I took up the same mountains had the same body styles, with no noticeable increase in temperature. There is little or no boost at 2000 RPM and you barely have your foot on the gas. I just putt along because I am usually hunting. I'm not blasting up the mountain with rocks flying everywhere. Thanks for the quesses though. Maybe the turbo needs an intercooler at those low speeds.

I have an 87 EA82T that will overheat every time I climb continuously for more than 1 or 2 kms. It did it once last year as an auto and twice this year as a DR. The speed is approximately 20 kph, about 2000 RPM in 2nd low. I drive this car all the time and it never overheats, not on the highway, in traffic or just sitting. The rad, 180 thermo and water pump are all new, and the coolant is fresh. The temp can be kept below the red by putting the heater on full. Rad fan thermo is bypassed. Is there a design flaw or a mechanical reason for the overheating? I have been up both mountains many times with carburated and single port cars with no problems.