Subaru Jim Maple Ridge

Just about any fuel additive will clean the top end for your, and clean the fuel system on the way by. Just dump it in with the next fill-up.

Does The Pull Change When You Take Your Foot Off The Gas Or Run In 4wd?

What year is your car, and is it a brake fluid warning lamp or a brake lamp warning? If it is the fluid light, undo the plug at the reservoir until spring. If it is the lamp warning, it is probably from moisture inside the car. You have to remove the rear bulbs and spray or grease the contacts. Enjoy your winter.

Subys are pretty forgiving as far as oil goes, but the one problem you will find running high viscosity oil in cold weather is that the suction created by the oil pump during warm-up tends to suck in one 'O'-ring on the mickey mouse gasket between the pump body and the block. This allows aeration of the oil and subsequently you get the horrible valve tick that we all know and love.

The easiest way is to take the driver's seat out, lay on your back and squeeze the tabs of the black cube together. Then you push those tabs out into the engine box. The cable on the pedal is the easy part.

I have tons of pulleys because I never have time to clean up. I built the last motor using a 151 km block, MFPI T heads, MFPI nonT cams and a lot of parts off the floor. Idles a little roughly, but takes no prisoners. You can't hit it in 2WD, not if you like your tires. Problems like mine come along fairly seldom, and I think we have these problems just to humble us up a little bit, we really don't know as much as we thought we did. Cheers, thanks for the input. Ben, I found your post, thanks. I'll give you a call before the weekend.

Okay, we'll try this again. And Ben, I somehow lost your post. I only got to look at one picture. Try again please. Anyway, problem solved. Long story short, wiring harness to air flow meter. Lost both grounds. Jumped them to ground, runs great. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Problem solved. Turns out that I somehow lost both grounds to the air flow meter. My ECM was giving no codes other than station identification. I borrowed an ECM from a turbo XT with the identical production date and plugged it on. It gave me the 23 code right away. I dont know why the original did not give the code, but when I started to check the harness, both grounds were open. I just hot-wired both wires to the mounting bolt for the dropping resistor because changing the plug did nothing. I don't know where the grounds run to, but when I have time I will tear a harness apart to find out, for future reference, unless someone already knows? Anyway, the car is running beautifully, and thanks for the help.

Check the switch on the brake pedal. It can be adjusted closer to keep the switch normally open. Also look to make sure that nothing is stopping the pedal from returning to rest against the rubber stopper. Brake lamp switches should not require adjustment. Maybe some wires are in the way. Good luck.

There is a member in Penticton who deals with Justys. He would be the one to ask, and probably the best one to get parts from should you need any. I'll try to find his name and let you know his site if i can.

One good whack on the bottom of the INNER sidewall takes them off 'painlessly' every time.

Well, end of day five and still no luck. The belts, every hose and every connector and all of the components have been checked at least twice. I would just change the motor again, but I would have to use the same intake again, as the '87 is different from the '86 and '88, and it's the only '87 wiring harness I have. I'd hate to waste another day to find out that the next motor acts the same. All suggestions greatly appreciated. I will post the solution once I know what I did wrong.

You could check to make sure that your gas cap is breathing properly. I remember that sometimes the old styles could build up a vacuum at highway speeds, preventing the pump from pumping enough volume. Just a guess. You can check it by running without the cap long enough to see if it happens again.

If the noise is under the front floor, you should check the bolts and also the plate itself that the radius rods mount into. You should also check the bushings on the radius rod, which is the round rod leading back from the lower control arm.

Wheels can be turned, it doesn't matter. All you are doing is engaging the splitter gear in the front of the tranny, the front and rear tires are already connected.

Well, no such luck. Still running way too rich, and surging every three seconds. It is especially annoying because I changed out the block for nothing, as my persistent little leak turned out to be the lower rad hose. I didn't touch anything under the dash when I did the motor change. Any other guesses?

Thanks for the guesses. I think have found the problem, after checking every connector and hose, and yes, belts too. It appears that the signal voltage from the TPS is reading 2.4 volts at idle instead of 0.5 .It was a used TPS anyway as are most of the parts I use, but it did test fine about five weeks ago. I will update this thread once I know for sure, in about two hours.

Thanks for the guess. I've already double-checked all of the plumbing and wiring. Everything went on properly. I put 91 Octane in, now it will idle cold, but it surges every three seconds, and will still not rev past 5000. I'll go through and test each component, maybe I'll find something.Maybe another guess might come along.

I just pulled a stock EA82T out of my '87 SW and put in one that I just put together using a carbed block. I used the original intake and wiring harness and didn't change anything else either. The car was running fine a couple of days ago, other than running warm and losing a bit of coolant, which was why I pulled the motor. The problem now is that it is running way too rich, won't idle propperly or wind past 5000 rpm. CEL is off and no codes. Nothing that controls fuel was even changed. Educated guesses ?

I would check your tire sizes and pressures first. Would like to know how an EA82 went in when the motor is an inch and a half wider than the availible space between the frames.

You can call me through the day at 604-466-6860. I'll walk you through it so you can read your codes to sort out your problem.

3500 sounds about right for 70 mph.

My tire supplier, a wholesaler only, advises that all tires should be run at their maximum rated pressure for best economy and to reduce tire wear. Underpressure results in weaker sidewalls and shoulder wear. Also, he advises that there should be no differential in front and rear pressures as the actual circumference of the tire depends upon the tire pressure, not the load upon the tire. This is a very important aspect for all owners of 4WD and AWD to consider. I have requested an opinion directly from the manufacturer to confirm or dispute this position. In the interim, is anyone aquainted with a person 'in the know' from whom we could get an educated opinion? I always went by the pressures listed on the door post, except for big mags which required full pressure to keep the center of the tread on the road. My tire buddy straightened me out a few years ago. I am now driving an '87 DR sw. I can change in and out of 4Hi just by dropping my foot off the gas and pushing gently on the transfer lever. It would follow that if your gears are binding, so are your tires.

Problem solved. Thanks again Josh.

The parts cars are autos and this car is a standard. I have the valve off. It looks as if the contacts were corroded and the valve was stuck closed.It is all cleaned up, I just wasn't going to put it back on if it wasn't the right one. All of these cars have a lot of history before I ever see them, so in some cases there is a lot of correcting to do. Quite often the only thing wrong with a car is what other people have done to it. Thanks for the help.