Subaru Jim Maple Ridge

You can put in a SPFI motor from a newer one and just use your carbed intake.Compression ratio is 9.5 : 1 instead of 9 : 1, not a big gain, but very noticable and won't cost any extra $.

Try putting the same pressure in all the tires. That way, all of your tires will have the same circumference and the rears won't be pushing the fronts down the road. Recheck your mileage and get back to us.

You will need to replace the distributor with another with four wires. The second pair signal the ECM to control fuel injection.

I have a '90 SW that floats on the idle once warmed up. Code indicates IAC but the module tests 9 ohms. It is, however, a two pin connector. The harness has three pins. The other two parts cars here both have a three pin module, which looks like a bi-polar, rotating valve. The faulty one appears to be more like a solenoid, plunger type. Has someone replaced it with the wrong module, or are they interchangable? Thanks, Jim.

Turn the key to on, engine not running, tilt the wheel up and look underneath. Read the codes and let us know, or read similar threads on ECM codes. If no codes, then your problem is basic, spark, vacuum, fuel. Good luck.

There was an '86 DR in last weeks Buy and Sell for $400 OBO. It's over in Surrey. I'm presuming that you need one that doesn't need work to get out to Nelson? Jim (604) 466-6860

I'm having no luck getting through on the site, I'm not good enough with these gadgets. You'll have to get me the address and phone number.

Get me an address and a phone number, I'll check it out for you.

Ben, polish the chamber between the valve seats, post a picture. I'm not sure what we were supposed to see, but they looked like dirty ports to me. I'll pull your motor down in the next day or two, season closes on the 15th.

Caster and camber are fixed on old styles and Loyales, the only adjustment is toe-in. Jack up one side at a time, check for bad wheel bearings, ball joint, inner tierod end or a bent radius rod. This is the round rod bolted to the lower control arm leading back to the tranny frame. If everything is fine, you can do your own alignment provided you have all the same wheels and tires. First, inflate the tires to the maximum pressure marked on the sidewall. Lower the two front windows, rest an angle, board or straight-edge across the top of the doors. Clamp the steering wheel in the dead center position. From the front of the car, sight down the inside of the tires, as high as you can, still having a clear view of the rear tire. The front and rear inner sidewalls of the front tire should line up with inner tread shoulder of the rear tire. This is the inner edge of the part of the tread that contacts the road, not the edge of the rubber pattern. You can use a straight-edge if you have trouble seeing the sidewalls, and you can place a marker at the rear tire if you have trouble seeing the tread shoulder. Do not adjust the wheel all the way, as your tire is holding to the ground. Adjust it close, then roll the car back a foot and adjust again. Your accuracy depends on how level your ground is, but if you do it right you will not be peeling tires. Good Luck.

You should get the biggest battery that you can stuff in, with a long warranty and lots of outlets to be able to make a claim on that warranty. Also, the receipt and warranty should be carried right in the glove box, just so you have it when and where you need it.

The SPFI cams have the best lift, but the difference is not enough to make the car run poorly. You either missed by a notch, or a cam follower is out of place.

27 total, 4 projects, 9 run, only 3 licenced.

Sounds like a loose plate in the battery, about the only thing that can move around enough to make that much of a difference.

I am, and usually do, run a turboed 9.5 as a daily driver. The main problem is that the mechanical advance should be recurved in the distributor to get rid of the bogging at full throttle from a stop. I have never bothered because the car flies under light throttle. No attributable mechanical problems due to the switch, just make sure that your cooling system is up to the extra strain. A rad is not very romantic or splashy, nobody brags about them but it is the only thing protecting all of your efforts.

You probably only need the latch itself for the fuel door. The resistor block is in the bottom of the cold air duct behind the blower motor. Looks like a hood with a plastic leg leading back to one of the blower motor screws.

Most suby owners know that the only opinion that really matters is thier own. Go out and buy a ' Don't laugh, it's paid for.' sticker.

The short tour to the red line in the morning could cost you a set of heads. If you remove the 'jiggle pin' and drill the hole out to 3/16", the coolant gets through right away. It might take the motor a bit longer to warm up, but you won't lose a motor over it.

Tried to send you a private message but it didn,t work. If you can give me all of your numbers from your ECM I can see if I have one to match, there aren't too many different ones for the old styles. Bear in mind that the lack of fuel could be from the absence of an impulse from the angle sensor, or the fuel pump or relay could be shut down, meaning that you have no pressure. I just run a hot wire from the battery + to the blue wire at the plug on the pump. This is much faster than checking the whole thing out to find out that it wasn't the problem anyway. You should hear or feel the pump running as soon as you hook up the jumper. If not you already found the bother. You could also unhook the starter solenoid wire and get someone to hold the key to the start position while you feel the fuel pump. If its' not running do the jumper trick above. If the pump is running, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If you have pressure, check for power on both sides of each injector. If you have both power and fuel pressure at the injectors and still no start, I'll probably have to send you an ECM, but check the above first to see if you really need one. I rather doubt it, and I haven't been wrong since yesterday. Good luck. Jim (604) 466-6860

More info might get more specific guesses. Auto or standard, 2WD or 4WD,etc.

The best way to drive is exactly backwards to the way you learned. Drive at normal speeds, visibility allowing, always remembering that not all those around you are driving Subies. Do not push in the clutch and hit the brakes because you will slide like any other car. Push the brakes as hard as you want while in 4WD and in gear, but let off the brakes before pushing the clutch. As everyone else is telling you, find a spot to figure out how it works and get used to it, so you don't have to find out the 'hard' way.

Manual trannys usually just wear out. Sometimes a gear will fail to disengage. If this is your problem, it will make noise in all gears except the one that is not disengaging. In any event, the best way to fix it is not to. Throw it over your shoulder and put in another.

Carb problem, vacuum leak or compromised converters would be my guess. I just had to put a '93 SP through aircare 5 times. Turned out that someone had poked through the first cat, and had replaced the center pipe with one for an older model without a second cat.

I very seldom replace oil pumps, and it's too bad I didn't read your thread earlier.The member who said it was the oil pump seal was entirely correct. I always replace the front crank seal. both cam seals, oil pump seal, oil pump 'O' ring, oil pump seal ( AKA Mickey Mouse gasket ), both belts and both valve cover gaskets all at once. The ticking is caused by the oil pump sucking air past the one ear of the seal. This usually happens with the seal shrinking with age, but anyone running heavy oil in cold weather can kill a new seal overnight. Peoples main complaints about the Loyale series is that they are noisy and they leak. Most people just replace timing belts, not realizing that they are already right there to do all the rest. All those extra parts will be good for another 10 or 15 years so you should never have to do them again on that motor.

What code are you getting? It is entirely possible that the CAS is burned out in the distributor. Broken and shorting battery plates cause this often, but if this is your problem, you should be getting the code for no signal voltage. Good Luck.