johnb102

Just called the dealer and they want $369 for a complete front axle. They said they only deal in new because Subaru had a problem with the remanufacuter so stopped using them and started supplying new parts again.

Not even 80K miles. It has always been a second car.

While changing the oil on my 95 Legacy wagon I noticed a bit of grease leaking from the rubber boot near the front passenger side wheel. I guess this is the axle boot? If so, can the boot be replaced and refilled with grease, or is it better to go with a whole new (rebuilt) axle given that this one is 11 years old. I noticed posts about the poor quality of some rebuilt axles - is there a good supplier to look for?

I managed to get a branch from a tree that was weighted down by snow stuck in between the window and the car when I shut the door, which now does not close fully. Either that, or when I backed up with part of the branch stuck in the window frame, the window pulled away from the car. I am able to shut the door so that it locks, but there is about a 1/2 inch gap between the window and the rubber moulding of the car. The window seems to go up and down OK. When you open the door, it really pops open, as if there is pressure against the door pushing it out, which makes me think that maybe the hinge of the door is bent, so it is not closing properly. Any thoughts on what to do to fix this? Do I need a body shop, or just my regular mechanic?

My 95 Legacy LSi wagon has only 70K miles, but at 10+ years I was thinking it is time to replace hoses, etc. My shopping list includes: Radiator Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses Thermostat Heater Hoses Heater Control Valve Is there anything else that is part of the cooling system that should be replaced at the same time? Should I stick with Subaru parts from the discount Subaru dealer online or are after market parts just as good?

Thanks, but York is a bit far for me. I am going to take it to a local shop to see if they can clean out that drain. I tried to get up the water with a vacuum at the car wash with little success. Tomorrow I am going to put a space heater in the footwell and let it run to try to dry it out and hope I don't get a lot of mildew smell. If that doesn't work, are there any inexpensive options to replace the carpet? The dealer said $650 for all new carpet installed.

My 95 Legacy Wagon sat outside in the rain all weekend and when I got in this morning the rugs were soaked on the drivers side. I had this happen over the summer in heavy rains, and I thought I fixed it by clearing leaves from a drain. The drain I cleaned off was a plastic piece with a hole in the bottom (about the size of a pencil eraser) that sits at the bottom of the driver's side windshield wiper arm. I just cleaned out a couple of more leaves, but wonder if there is a way to more thouroughly clean the drain. It doesn't seem to go straight down as I tried to puch a small stick in there and just cleared out this piece of plastic on top, but can't see where the water goes once it gets below this piece. Can this plastic piece with the hole about the size of a pencil eraser be removed for more thorough cleaning below it? Any other thoughts?

Spray some WD40 into the lock mechanism. Mine does that from time to time but after a spray it works fine for a year or two.

My 95 Legacy Automatic does the exact same thing. Sometimes when you come to a stop and are in Drive it shakes so much I shift to neutral. Other times it does not shake at all. I looked into this a while back and saw some info about the front axles being redesigned to prevent this, but I am not sure. I have had the car for 8 years and it has always done this, and has not gotten worse.

Yes, the car was sitting in the rain. I found in a search that the drain can be plugged near the bottom of the wiper arm. I found this drain and there was a bunch of debris block it, so I have cleaned it out. It may be still partially clogged inside, because I poursed some water into the hole and it did drain down underneath, but it was very slow to drain. Now I will try to dry out the rugs before the next rain to see if that solved the problem. If not, it will be onto the other approaches suggested.

My car was parked outside in the rain, and now the drivers side rug is soaked. Any ideas?

My 95 Legacy LSi came with factory alloy wheels. They now seem to be peeling. It might not really be peeling, just some form of deterioration (bubbling) of the material at the edges. Is there anything that can be done for this? Is it just a cosmetic problem, or will it eventually become a safety issue?

I have a 95 Legacy with 66K miles. This weekend when I started it I didn't hold the ignition on for quite long enough so it didn't start. I immediately turned the key again and it fired up, but this time the idle went way up, the check engine light came on, and then the engine died. I restarted the car again and all seemed fine, and has been fine for the last couple of days, except the check engine light stays on. I took it to the Autuzone, and they read the code which they said was for a "Idle Speed Sensor" which was a $336 part that they didn't have in stock. They tried to reset the light but got an "input error" on their computer so could not do it. Checking with the local dealer, it seems this part doesn't really exist, and they probably were referring to the Idle Air Control Valve. Doing some research on here, it seems that the part can maybe be cleaned instead of replaced. It also seems to me that maybe this was a one time thing caused by failing to hold the ignition key on long enough the first time. I would like to begin by resetting the code to see if it even comes back. Can this be done by disconnecting the battery? How long does it need to be disconnected to remove the codes? Any tips (pictures) to help if I need to remove and clean the Idle Air Control Valve?

I had the exact same problem recently, except it did not go away when it warmed up. I thought it might be a belt, but I took it to my mechanic and he said it was about 1 quart over filled and that might be the problem. He drained some oil, but that didn't change the sound right away. Then about a day or two later it went away as suddenly as it came. Maybe you should get the oil level down to the right level and see what happens.

The scary thing is I bought it when it was 1 1/2 years old and already had 17K miles, so I have really not put on many miles. It has always been a second family car. I do change the oil regularly myself with 5w-30. The shop said it was about a quart too full (I know I put just over 4 quarts in, but maybe it wasn't fully drained), so they drained a bit, but it still makes the noise.

My 95 Legacy Wagon Automatic with 65K miles recently starting making what I would describe as a clicking noise that is louder at start up and then fades somewhat. I thought it was belt noise, but I took it to my local mechanic who said the belts were fine and he thinks it is valve train noise. Does this make sense? Will it get worse, or should I just ignore it?

How hard is it for an inexperienced mechanic to replace an oxygen sensor in the driveway? I have ramps and assorted socket wrenches.

I have a 95 Legacy LSi wagon with 64K miles, and on the highway with just a driver I can get 25 mpg with luck. In actual driving around the city I usually get about 17 mpg, but recently it has dropped to 15. I might need the Oxygen Sensor since mine is the original. The dealer said there are 2 and they cost about $120 each. Is it likely that both need replacement, or does one tend to go sooner than the other. I have no check engine light, and other than the poor gas mileage I have no other symptoms.

I am trying to identify the proper filter for my 95 Legacy LSi. I called two local dealers and both confirmed that it has a spin on filter. Then I ordered it from a web site and got this: Beck/Arnley 0440262 http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0440262 A couple of other websites list this as the proper filter, but it is definately not a spin on. It looks like it will be a hard item to replace. Is this correct, and is it hard to replace? If it is correct, why are the dealers so unreliable.

Our other car is a Volvo and there a few dealers who sell genuine Volvo parts at a discount for mail order customers. Are there Subaru dealers who do this? I would like to replace the 10 year old heater hoses on our 95 Legacy and the original Subaru parts seem to have done well, so I would like to get them again. Thanks.

This morning it was very cold (~15 degrees) and when I started our 95 Legacy Wagon with 65K miles it started right up but the AT Light was flashing. When I shifted into reverse it died right away. I restarted and the light flashed again (about 5 or 6 times I think) and again the car ran fine until I shifted into gear when it started to shake and die. I left if for about an hour, then checked all the fluids, and when I restarted it then light didn't flash and it shifts into gear without dying. The snow is starting to accumulate so I didn't want to try driving it away for fear of it dying again when I was far from home. Any thoughts? Seems like a sensor of some sort but I have no idea where to start.

A lot of people said up to 94 Legacy. What changes were there in 95 that are a negative?

I have a 95 Legacy with only 60K miles. I have changed the coolant every 2 years, but wonder how long the radiators tend to last on these cars? Should I change it before I get stranded somewhere?

While trying to remove the Caliper Lock Pin to change the rear pads on my 95 Legacy Wagon I broke the Caliper Lock Pin off so that I can now freely rotate the caliper up to access the pads, but have no way to lock it back in place. The end of the pin that broke off is flush with the opposite end of the caliper, so I see no hope of getting it out. Since this is beyond my ability to fix, I wonder if it would be safe to lower the caliper back into place and drive about 1/2 mile on a local road to the mechanic. Otherwise I would need to get a tow truck to move it over there. Will the mechanic likely be able to get the pin out and replace it with a new one, or will I need a new caliper?

I have the same problem on my 95 Legacy but it is mostly in the hot weather. When a disk gets stuck it usually comes part way out and I can stick another disk under it and pull both out. I don't know a real fix other than replacing the radio/cd player.