Soobadooba

Thanks! I was patting myself on the back a bit since I had never worked on a Subaru before and it only took a couple hours start to finish. It is, however, a sobering experience to know you can still make some serious mistakes if you get in a hurry/anxious... even after working on cars etc. for 20+ years as a hobby.:-\ Zip ties! Hadn't thought of that. I'm too chicken to leave the covers off completely. With my luck, the first time I drove it without covers, a bolt from somebodys rustbucket here in the NE would bounce up in there. Thanks again! -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd 5spd Wagon

Some of you may have read my earlier postings about the '91 Loyale I bought for $200 with an engine problem. It seems one of the timing belts broke and the previous owner paid someone to install a new set. The PO said it ran (I don't see how considering what I found) but very poorly. Going on the suspicion that the pass.-side belt was 180 out, I spun the cam around and gave it a go. It wouldn't start, but the compression sounded pretty even. I decided to take a look at he distributor. Hmm, #1 and #4 wires were swapped...whats up with THAT!? The cap is clearly new. Maybe they just screwed up when they put the new cap on. Turn the key and still no startee... just some popping noises and backfiring. Now I'm starting to get a little worried. I decided to pull off the driver side cover and look at the cam position. It is 180 from the pass. side like it should be. Now what?! "Its got to be the rotor position, dammit!" I think to myself so I get my ratchet and turn the flywheel to zero. I didn't see anything about what positions the cams were supposed to be on the compression stroke but the rotor was pointing at #1 so it was either correct or 180 out. I unbolted the dist and turned the rotor 180. Anxious, I jumped in and turned the key. A pretty nasty banging/clattering sound came from the front of the car. Nearly crapping my pants, I ran to the front to see what had happened. Lesson #1- Always make sure there are no tools near moving engine parts when starting/running. lesson#2- Always make sure there are no tools still ATTACHED to moving engine parts when starting/running. At that point, I removed the ratchet (that was now pinning a plastic fan blade against front of the engine) from the crank pulley bolt. There is apparently no serious damage and I try again thanking the good Lord it didn't start THAT time. It fired. Confident, I try a few more times and soon it is purring like a kitten... a very LOUD kitten (some exhaust work in my future). The question? Is there any good fix for the fittings that the timing belt cover bolts screw into (aside from new rear covers)? About half of mine just pull right out. Thanks, -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd 5spd wagon (The new improved RUNNING version)

Cool! I'll definitely have to check that out:-) -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd 5spd Wagon

Shux. I'm guessin' you guys were already done by the time I was in that general direction:( I'll just have to catch up later. -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd wagon

I sent you and email too. I'm going to try to swing by while I'm in that area this afternoon. -Louis-

Thanks toybuilder. I am staying open to the idea that I may end up towing it home, but it sure would be nice to drive it. I'll keep everyone posted on what I find if/when I get it to my house. -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd Wagon

Hi All, My name is Louis and I am new to this board as well as Subarus. I have always liked them, but for whatever reason, no Subaru has ever been added to the list of literally dozens of makes and models I have owned. Now that has changed. My wife wanted a new STI so I compromised and bought her the next best thing. I bought her (okay, maybe me too) a '91 4wd Loyale wagon for $200. The catch is... one of the timing belts broke and the "mechanic" who replaced the belts for the PO botched the job. My money is on the right belt being 180 out as the car will "run", but barely and it backfires. Anyway, my wife (or friend) and I are going to retrieve it in my other $200 car in a few days so I want to be prepared. My question? Can the tensioner be loosened/adjusted through the holes in the center cover to time that cam? The Haynes manual I have doesn't mention the tensioners except with ALL the covers off (that I could find anyway). Any pointers for the easiest access to do this job will be greatly appreciated. Please bear in mind that while familiar with the basic design, I haven't really looked at a subie motor up close, but am going by the pictures in the manual for details. Thanks in advance Louis in Central Connecticut