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Everything posted by ctoth
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I've seen napa filters fail too. Just like anything else, if you get a bad one then it sucks. I always let my car run about 10 min before I drive after an oil change and check the levels again. I got one a month ago from Fram and I put it on. A quart of synthetic all over the floor. Came from the filter. Upon further inspection, the old gasket was stuck on the block when I put the new filter on. The gaskets doubled up and didn't seal properly. Over the course of 8 years (since I was 16) I've been doing my oil changes and never had that happen before. It's already happened twice with this car. Now I always inspect the threads before I put the new filter on.
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compare the old shaft to the new and make sure they are the same size. I got one that was a different size before because the parts store had 2 different numbers for my car(95 obw sport). After I inspected them both, the new one was visibly smaller. I just grabbed one (should've grabbed both and returned one) and it didn't fit. They should just slide right on.
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If it's a cable clutch, which I think it is, you can possibly adjust it to get a little more out of it. You can find the adjustment nuts on th ebackside of the intake manifold. If you back the nut off a couple of turns you should notice a difference in where the friction point of the clutch is in relation to the pedal. Hope that helps
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To really assess the situation you'll have to remove the wheel and caliper. On my '95 ob the mechanic who did the last brake job, before I bought it, didn't grease the contact points on the little bracket that holds the pads. I had one side of the pad that had little to no wear whatsoever and the other side was down to the metal. Ended up warping the rotors. I replaced the pads and rotors, applied the proper amount of grease in the correct areas and never had a problem again. Traded it in just a few months back. So, I'd recommend removing the wheels and swinging the caliper out of the way. It's probably just dust though if it's only been 6 months.
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In my '95 there was a roll pin to hold the shaft/CV assembly to the trans axle shaft. So he should've noticed when trying to thread the axle nut on if the length was wrong. Unless he didn't put the roll pin in. The spindle should come off just by backing the nut off the ball joint. Then you can separate the a-arm and the spindle. Sounds like he really effed up.
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Careful with the turbo. Not as good in the snow due to the lag. I would probably stick with the 2.5 but I haven't driven the 3.0 yet. I recommend the Legacy 2.5 GT if you're looking for all the options. Beware of the head gasket in the 2.5 though. I think it was previously stated that if you get one newer than 2000 it shouldn't be an issue. I've got a 2004 2.5 ts and I love it. Plenty of power to pass trucks uphill in 5th gear.
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Axle replacement
ctoth replied to PeterD's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
also, if the ball joint is still good, all you have to do is back the nut off. Use a bar to pry the a-arm from the ball joint. Put a new cotter pin in the ball joint when done.