OB99W

Nice pics, Skip. It would seem that the potentiometer could get "gummed" more readily if not sitting in gas. I wonder if those who top the tank frequently have less problem.

If there's a whining sound coming from near the front of the engine, it's sometimes caused by an alternator that's under heavy load (or in distress). It might just be that longer cranking times and use of more accessories (wipers, heaters, blowers, etc.), in combination with lowered output from the battery when cold, are requiring the alternator to work harder than usual. Under certain circumstances, cold/moist air can lead to some icing in the intake. That can cause a bit of restriction that might induce a whistling sound. An exhaust joint that's partially open can also whistle. Extreme cold can cause metal to contract enough so that a small opening might occur. If the noise disappears as the engine (exhaust system) warms, that could be what's going on. Normal combustion produces a lot of water vapor, but at warm temperatures it's not readily seen. However (especially before the exhaust system warms) cold ambient air allows that moisture to easily condense, and it's obviously visible. It's not usually an indication of excessive moisture in the gas tank; that, however, could cause ice to form in a fuel line, so measures to control it are still important.

Probably to someone who thinks that J-B Weld can fix almost anything.

You're welcome. Do be careful; the bulb is on the same circuit as the dash illumination (dimmable), and a short can kill the solid-state illumination control module.

Not directly relevant, but perhaps interesting: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995LegacyInfo.pdf

Yep. Here are two links:http://www.endwrench.com/current/02SpringInsiderInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/MoreP0440TipsInfoW00.pdf

"Lacking" is the correct word, as in "they don't exist". Do you mean the area between the "AT OIL TEMP" and "ABS" lights? If so, that's blank. The gear selector should be illuminated whenever the exterior light are turned on via the stalk (but not by turning on the parking lights with the switch at the top of the steering column). If not, there's likely a bulb burned out.

True, but most USMB members are probably more interested in what fluid to use in their non-GM Subaru.

Agreed. Even if the condition of the head deck area of the block is ignored (a bit hard to do ), it's not like the cylinder liners and piston crowns are looking good. The dealer was going to drop reworked heads on that? It's no wonder USMB has such a loyal following.

It's interesting that two GM licensees have such different takes on the backward compatibility of Dexron-VI. As I referred to in post #5 of this thread, Citgo says in http://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/10165.pdf : "DEXRON-VI is not suitable for use in non-GM vehicles which called for DEXRON-II or DEXRON-III type fluids." Go figure. :-\

Hydraulic pressure and electronic signals. So, no, there isn't a simple answer (that would help much in diagnosis). More-complex answers: http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf (phase 1) http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAatPh2Win04.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1999Info.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATDiagServ.pdf (ph2) Differential fluid correction to "4EATDiagServ": http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EATService.pdf (ph2) http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATTransOp.pdf (ph2) 1995 4EAT diags/links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19805

See #4 on this Web page: http://www.subaru.com/common/faq/index.jsp

The topic has certainly come up before, with members expressing support and otherwise. Search the forum for "limited slip additive" if you'd like to read the previous pros and cons. In general, the consensus seemed to be that a full ATF replacement (flush) should be tried first, with the additive a last-ditch approach. The problem is that the change in the fluid's frictional characteristics due to the additive doesn't affect just the clutch pack.

Sure, why not; Nipper has already suggested it. Start with the plug wires, then the coil pack. Give it a couple of minutes before moving on, since sometimes the water has to find its way into a crack. Arcing is a sure giveaway, but even if the engine gets rough that might be enough of a clue. You could also spray the areas of the cam and crank sensors. Each should be pretty immune to moisture if all's okay.

You're welcome, Skip; glad I could contribute to a successful effort (and I'll try to stay more on-topic ).

The identifying tape is normally around the harness right at each injector connector; it's white on the front cylinders (#1 and #2), and black at the rears (#3 and #4).

Yes, but that would be admitting to a mistake. For example, let's say you're Coca-Cola, and you introduce a new formulation for Coke, but many people don't like it. Would you go back to making the old stuff...? Uhh, never mind.

Are you sure it's for sale, and not just that the owner needed it dug out? The owner's name isn't "Tom Sawyer", by any chance?

It's Lisle 38220. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=659 http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=lisle+38220

It's a Lisle 58430. See:http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1164 (Until Lisle changes their website again!) :-\ EDIT: for places to get one -- http://www.google.com/products?q=lisle+58430&hl=en

Good point -- better to be just stranded if a timing belt breaks, than be stranded and have the possibility of bent valves, etc.

Scroll down the page to "Similar Threads" for some data.

It depends what's wrong with the particular 2.5. The 2.5s are prone to piston slap and HG leakage. There's a question as to whether even the latest HGs from Subaru fix the problem. Of course, if the engine was allowed to significantly overheat (due to bad HGs or whatever) or otherwise suffered, putting in one of the more-reliable 2.2s may be the best option for some people. A decent used 2.2 (getting somewhat harder to find as time goes by) may be cheaper than reworking a 2.5 with enough problems.

Here's something you can try next time...Instead of pumping the accelerator, hold it down to the floor while cranking. That should help "unload" any excess gas, if it's the problem. The engine might then start more readily, and if so be a clue that one or more injectors are leaking down and causing flooding. The opposite problem would be if the injectors aren't being told to open at all. Noid lights could be used to check for injector pulses. Assuming that air and compression aren't intermittent, if fuel isn't the problem, that leaves ignition. Can you check for spark? Or, as has been suggested, consider the CTS.

Old at 33? Wow, John, now you're making me feel really old! From http://www.answers.com/old&r=67 : 1.a Having lived or existed for a relatively long time; far advanced in years or life. But since it's all relative... My definition of "old": someone who has at least a few years on you, no matter what your present age. Or, another definition from the above link: 12. Skilled or able through long experience; practiced. Yeah, I like that one.