OB99W

Welcome to the forum. Can you be a bit more specific about the symptoms? Exactly what sort of fluctuations -- too low, too high, both, how frequently, for what duration, etc.? Does the idle shift suddenly, or does it slowly "drift"? Does the problem occur when the engine is cold, after it warms up, or both? Is the trans manual or auto trans? If auto, does the problem occur in both neutral and drive equally?

Take a look at this site; includes useful links: http://www.obd2allinone.com/

If you're still getting code 11, it's likely that there's still a fault with the crank signal as the ECU sees it. However, that can be due to a problem with the sensor itself, the reluctors on the crank sprocket, the gap between the sensor and reluctors, the wiring, or even the ECU input. See pages 10-11 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf See page 5 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf A timing light can be used during cranking to determine if the spark occurs at somewhere near the correct moment.

While it's possible that something may have warped, I don't think it's likely. Even if there's a problem, there's really not much you can do at this point unless something shows up. If you're concerned, change the oil (unless it's synthetic, which usually easily tolerates elevated temperature) and watch the temp gauge (and coolant reservoir tank for any sign of overflow) on the next trip or two. If nothing becomes evident, relax.

Congrats. The AM radio noise you described was a good clue to there being an ignition problem.

Since this problem is affecting both cylinders #3 and #4 (paired in the wasted-spark arrangement), it would seem that the problem is ignition-related. While secondary ignition problems are a common cause of misfire (so good plug wires are a starting point), they're not the only possibility -- the ignition path begins at the ECU and goes through the igniter and coil primary before getting to the coil secondary, wires and plugs. A loose connection or faulty part on the primary side could be the culprit. I'm not sure useful info would be captured, but if there's access to a good scan tool, the freeze frame data that set the misfire code might reveal something.

It's possible that there is a relationship between the bump and the misfire. If the ignition wire is barely fitting, a jolt might cause it to loose connection long enough for the ECU to notice. Hopefully, replacing the plug wires will be the cure. Also check the primary connection to the coil pack. In the same vein, make sure that the connection to #4 fuel injector is tight (and perhaps #3 as well).

Unless you're psychic, you can't predict what will happen once the warranty is over (and probably neither can the dealer ). I'd suggest concentrating on any current problems, especially ones that didn't previously get resolved. Be certain that any complaints you have are completely spelled out in the service order, and make sure you get a copy of it. That way, if things that would have been covered aren't fixed, you can prove they were problematic before the warranty expired, and should still be able to get satisfaction. (If you are psychic, you don't need a warranty. Just sell the car before any major upcoming problem. )

It can be tested with various instruments (voltmeter, ohmmeter, etc.), but the dealer is likely to use a Select Monitor.See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf for general info on the TPS and other engine management devices.

My own '99 OB, given the hills around here and mixed (very little highway) driving, gets about 20 mpg in warm weather (about 17 mpg in winter). If your driving includes a significant amount of cruising on the highway, the gas mileage should be higher than 20; I've gotten 26-27 on highway-only trips. The ECU/TCU interaction is fairly sophisticated. Slope operation is at least partially based on sensed throttle angle versus engine rpm; that data is used by the TCU to help determine when to use the slope shift map. Therefore, problems with the TPS or speed sensors can cause shifting to not occur as expected; a marginal problem might not generate a DTC. Even somewhat-dragging brakes can play into this, since the detected speed would be lower than "normal" for the throttle position, and that would likely not trigger a trouble code. EDIT: I got distracted while composing the above, and I see that Nipper posted about the TPS before I sent my post. Good, now two of us are either right or barking up the wrong tree.

Sounds like a second (third, etc.) owner who put little mileage (obviously less than 20k miles) on the car, was unhappy enough with it that they didn't feel additional investment was merited, and bought a new one. I suspect there's more they're not telling and that you haven't discovered yet. The howl might be from wheel bearings, or brake issues. BTW, did you check diff oil? The cylinder #1 misfire could be a simple problem or at worst indicate the need for serious engine work. Given the other known problems, I agree with those who've suggested making an offer low enough to cover some contingencies, or look elsewhere.

As long as you're leaving the dipstick out long enough for any fluid to return from the tube to the pan, the reading should be sufficiently accurate. Trust the side of the stick that gives the lower reading. Your new description doesn't read like the engine speed is flaring (which was my interpretation based on your previous description), just that the reduced load after cresting the hill is allowing the engine to speed up. However, perhaps it's not increasing in RPM rapidly enough for the ECU and TCU to cause an upshift as soon as you'd expect. That leads me to... ...why you say "the car is weak". By all means, if a tune-up hasn't been done, take care of that; the "etc" should include air and fuel filters. However, I'm wondering if something else might explain what you've been experiencing. It's a long shot, but sometimes an exhaust restriction can cause power loss (especially noticeable climbing hills), and can seem that the trans is the culprit. OTOH, if gas mileage is decent and power seems otherwise adequate, then things may just be "normal"; the shift maps on the '99 4EAT aren't ideal, in my opinion.

Perhaps -- after all, "Subota" could be confused with the tractor manufacturer (Kubota).

Unless the pics are misleading, I see rust on the brake rotors where the pads would normally run. Rotors rust pretty easily, but just a few miles of usage usually removes suface rust; so if my eyes aren't deceiving me, what's the story? I also see what appears to be more rust than I'd expect on a few areas in the engine compartment (and I know what rust-belt cars look like). This all has me wondering if the car was in one of those Missouri floods. I'd check the underbody and elsewhere for excessive rust. I'd also carefully check the electrical system operation, and see if any non-stock ground wiring has been added (it's sometimes done to improve compromised chassis ground connections). Check fluids for both level and condition. It might give you an idea of whether the current owner has been doing proper maintenance. Lastly, is the battery really being held down with what appears to be a Bungee cord, or do we need better pics? :-\

Just to provide some background of the Toyota/FHI relationship: http://www.japancorp.net/article.asp?Art_ID=15930

Cars that have rear washers have a tank with two pumps. If I'm seeing things in the pic properly, I think that connector would go to the pump for the rear, if it existed.

Many rotors I've seen come with some sort of anti-corrosive coating for protection during shipment. I remove the oily type with brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, or a similar solvent that won't leave a residue. Some rotors are coated with a harder material, and certain manufacturers do indeed suggest cleaning with hot soapy water before mounting. A stiff-bristled (nylon) brush, ScotchBrite pad, or similar can help with the removal without damaging the metal's surface finish. If the coating seems to be more than just for protection during transit, I'd suggest contacting the supplier before removing it or using the rotor.

Before changing an O2 sensor or cat, you might want to consider: When was the engine oil last changed? With all the misfiring that had previously occurred, the oil could be significantly fuel-diluted. That can sometimes cause P0420 (P0430). If the oil was changed after the timing was corrected, then this isn't likely. It may be worthwhile checking for exhaust air leaks. If the misfiring led to any afterfire ("popping" in exhaust), there may be damage at a joint or elsewhere. Otherwise, as already suggested changing the front O2 (A/F) sensor in the affected bank is probably a good first step, followed by the bank's front cat if that doesn't do the trick.

Yes, one for each bank.

Those of us involved in music refer to it as GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome). Yeah, I've just got to have that synthesizer/guitar/(Subaru?)/whatever.

Based on the link below, that part # seems to be one that will fit. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=13027

Perhaps the following thread will provide some clues:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84813

You're welcome, Jeff. Sorry about the Motor Magazine links -- they apparently recently changed the Website a bit. The following should work: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

The timing belt may not be properly installed. Lots of them initially get put on wrong because the incorrect marks are used (don't use the arrows). Following are some links to info that should help to verify things. EndWrench articles: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/112001_08.pdf

The neutral switch (note that I didn't include the word "safety") is monitored by the ECU, since engine run parameters are changed dependent on whether in-gear or not. If the switch becomes intermittent, the ECU can get "confused". Although not directly related to the trouble being discussed, here's something interesting:http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf