OB99W

Depends on why and how it wound up on the ground. For example, if it went down the filler neck without backing up, you might have a rusted through fuel filler tube.

Assuming you mean the dash warning light: Is it on all the time? Could be low brake fluid or bad sensor. If not, does it come on when using the service brakes? Could be brake system hydraulic imbalance. Is the charge warning light on as well? Could be charging system (alternator) problems.

Yep, cable/wire/zip-ties have almost as many uses as duct tape, and surpass it in many ways.

While certainly not a rebuilding manual, this link might be interesting: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf

In addition to what you've mentioned, it's possible that the rear window isn't properly sealed. Also, if the weatherstripping is compressed (or there was ever a rear-ender that distorted the trunk area. etc.), there might be small gaps between the gasket and trunk lid. Sometimes you can find that type of problem by placing a crisp dollar bill across the gasket (so that part of it is beyond the lid area) and closing the trunk, then try pulling the bill out. Do that in several spots -- any place(s) where the bill is very easy to remove should be looked at more closely.

You've already gotten some good advice, and replaced some appropriate parts. One other thing I can think of that fits the symptoms is a partially restricted exhaust system.

It's a good line, but somebody took advantage of it:https://www.secondnational.com/ EDIT: Apparently, quite a while ago... http://freepages.history.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~butlercounty/secondnationalimage.html 2nd EDIT : http://www.thirdnationalbank.com/app/index.jsp

The code definitions with a 2.5L usually refer to bank 1 sensor 1, or bank 1 sensor 2 -- sensor 1 being the front, and sensor 2 the rear. Bank 2 references would be expected with the 3.0L H-6, since it has a sensor for both bank 1 and bank 2.

Yes, but he also referred to the "side" (not "front" versus "rear"), which would imply an engine that had a sensor for each bank.

Scroll down and read the "Similar Threads". Common problems when P0170 is generated are exhaust leaks, intake leaks, fuel pressure issues (high or low), defective engine coolant temperature sensor (CTS) or intake manifold pressure sensor (or airflow sensor). Basically, the P0170 code indicates the ECU can't compensate enough to get an appropriate A/F mixture. I'd look at the intake first for loose connections, since that's probably the easiest. If you haven't replaced the fuel filter recently, you might consider that. An OBD-II scan tool could be used to determine whether the fuel trims are severely to the rich or lean side, which could help determine a more-likely culprit. Since fuel trims are compensating adjustments, being very rich (positive) means the engine is running lean, while very lean (negative) is an effort to deal with a rich-running condition. None of the above is to say that a bad front O2 sensor isn't causing the problem, but that there are other possibilities. Which engine, again?

A few possibilities come to mind, but there's a simple one to consider. There are some poorly-manufactured automotive bulbs out there, and they're not all from China. They have various problems, including that some of them draw excessive current, sometimes only until warmed by use. I'd suggest replacing all turn signal bulbs on the affected side with new ones of a different brand than you have. Be sure to get the specified bulb type numbers (don't just match the ones already installed, since there may be a wrong one). That might be all that's necessary, but if not, you can always do further electrical troubleshooting.

Yes, congrats on the successful repair.

Not to rain on anspaugh777's parade, but that would also be my concern. Disconnecting the TCU and ECU means they'll run on default values for a short while, possibly masking certain problems. On the other hand, perhaps everything will be fine from now on. That's the air intake. Vacuum hoses are also typically black, but much thinner and usually made of rubber; the source of vacuum is ultimately the intake manifold. If anyone is interested in some pretty good online general automotive info (assuming you don't mind a Toyota emphasis), take a look at http://www.autoshop101.com/ . The page there that probably best links to the tutorials is http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html .

Here you go: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995Subaru.pdf Better to be on the low than the high side of the spec.

Making sure that the proper sprocket marks are all at 12 o'clock is important, but it's not a bad idea to do a belt tooth count as well to verify the positioning.

If you see anything disconnected (wiring or vacuum hoses), take care of it. Proper vacuum hose connections are usually shown on the emissions label pasted to the bottom of the hood.

In a way, it does. From http://encarta.msn.com/dictionary_1861615629/gruntled.html :grun·tled adjective Definition: contented: pleased or happy ( informal humorous ) [Early 20th century. Back-formation < disgruntled]

Yes, it's always a good business practice to malign owners of the product you sell, especially those who try to help other sometimes unhappy owners of that product. Besides, being disgruntled doesn't make anyone wrong.

Check connections (make sure nothing's loose/hanging) around the right (passenger) side of the engine/bay.

Done.

We posted at almost the same time. See my message #39 above. Back away from the TCM . Don't join the green connectors, they're for diagnostics.

Code 45: Intake Manifold Pressure SignalDiagnosis: Input signal circuit of TCM from ECM is open or shorted Trouble Symptom: Excessive shift shock However, the first step in the diagnostic procedure for code 45 directs you to the diagnostic for the TPS, which includes the symptom of excessive tight corner "braking". Unfortunately, there's too much to post here. Okay if I send a PM to you with further info, anspaugh777?

Follow the procedure as in the attached chart. The light should blink -- it might be eight times per second, four times per second, or a series of long and short blinks. Make a note of the result, and get back with that info.

There are several problems that can cause the symptoms you've described. However, if we assume that the trans didn't get damaged while your "friend" worked on the car, one thing that's engine-related and can easily affect the trans is a defective or misadjusted TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Yes, it can even cause the low speed binding. As has already been suggested, getting the TCU code(s) read is important at this stage -- for example, if a code for the TPS comes back, it will really simplify the repair. Give me a few minutes and I'll post the method of getting the TCU codes without a Select Monitor.

The noise might still be due to a loose heat shield, or other not-too-significant cause. DTC P0420 isn't always expensive to resolve. While it's the code indicating a catalyst efficiency problem, it doesn't always mean the cat's the culprit. Quite frequently, a failing front O2 sensor is the cause, and replacement with an OEM one solves the problem. EDIT: Nipper posted while I typed. At least we both said about the same thing.