OB99W

I'd certainly feel limited without my Innova Equus 3130, but not everyone can afford or has sufficient need for an OBD-II code reader or scan tool. Fortunately, places like AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts will usually read the code(s) for free if the CEL is lit. As already suggested, we can be of much more help if we're given the code itself (Pxxxx), not the code definition.

Generic code definitions (ignore P1000 and higher): http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml Subaru-specific code definitions (P1000 and higher): http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/subaru/subaru-obdii-obd2-codes.php

The '99 Legacy/OB was still DOHC; the Legacy/OB didn't get the SOHC until MY '00.

Exactly.

If you can get past the brand name issue, these links have some pretty good info. Note that most car covers are designed for indoor use. http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk15.html http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/BuySell/long_term_storage.htm http://www.tracyvette.com/vehiclestorageinfo.html

Can your tenant be trusted to hose the car off periodically if it gets tree sap, bird droppings, etc., on it? Unless the cover can "breathe", you may be better off without one -- nine months of trapped moisture can cause more damage than exposure to the elements for that time. Also, the dark environment from being covered attracts many rodents, and the deterents you've mentioned may not be sufficient.

Although Subaru apparently does have a significant following in the gay/lesbian community, I'm not sure that particular percentage is accurate. A little research on Google, however, seems to indicate that Subaru has actively pursued that group as buyers, which might partially explain the situation. Of course, almost 98% of all statistics are made up on the spot.

Substituting known-good parts is one way of finding a problem, but it can obviously be expensive and time-consuming. Instead, individual components can usually be tested. Have you read my post #4 in this thread, and looked at the P0400 info in the EndWrench link I gave? Yup, I have done that but it always comes back on within a couple days or less.[...]The code returning after being erased, of course, indicates the problem hasn't been resolved. It may not be any fun to go through all the steps of a diagnosis, but often it's actually the easiest and fastest way to a successful repair.

Anyone want to "homebrew"? Here's an example of what's available:http://www.steminc.com/piezo/mist_gen_transducer.asp The piezo devices have to be protected from running out of water, and high mechanical and electrical shock. Otherwise, they should work for the purpose.

If you haven't already done so, the first thing to do is verify that the trans fluid level is correct; it's not likely to cause what I think you're describing, but it's easy enough to check. (By the way, are you saying the 2-3 shift is rough, or that the trans "hunts" and can't seem to decide between 2nd and 3rd at times?) A/C is an additional engine load that will change operating conditions seen by the ECU. The ECU and TCU communicate with each other, sharing sensor data, and it's certainly possible that engine-related issues can affect trans operation. Sufficiently severe problems will cause trouble codes to be generated, but subtler ones (that may still cause noticable drivability issues) often won't. Before assuming the trans is at fault, even if the CEL isn't lit, it may be worthwhile to scan for any pending codes. Under rare conditions, electrical problems can cause the symptoms you've described. Look for any loose/corroded connections, especially grounds. Also, a quick check of the charging system might reveal something.

I assume that you want to use the gas in another car. However, there may be "crud" and water near the bottom of the tank. The filter will remove most particles, but won't help with water. If you've been running gas with some ethanol in it, any water may not have separated, but just pay attention to what comes out as you approach the last of the gas.

I assume "Boosted" refers to a turbo , so I think the correct code definitions are as follows:13 - Cam Position Sensor 22 - Knock Sensor or Circuit 24 - Air Control Valve or Circuit 32 - Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 35 - EGR Solenoid or Circuit 42 - Idle Switch or Circuit 44 - Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) With that many simultaneous DTCs, I'd suspect something common to all of them. There might be an ECU-related problem, possibly something as simple as a poor ground connection.

If never used before, the connector and the two "ground probes" ("diagnostic terminals") are probably still taped to the wiring harness (often just above the accelerator pedal). They may be completely covered, so look for a "lump" under the tape.

You're welcome. It's certainly possible that someone overloaded/shorted the lighter socket and blew the fuse.

You can easily test the vacuum solenoid valves -- it only requires a small piece of vacuum hose, your lungs, and a source of 12 volts. With no power applied, you shouldn't be able to blow air through. Applying 12 volts, you should hear a distinct click as the valve opens, and be able to fairly easily blow air through. Try that several times in a row, and if the valve operates reliably each time, it's likely okay. If you haven't seen this already, it might be interesting: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf

I missed it at first, too -- must be getting old. I know there have been other posts on the topic, but here's one older thread on changing plugs: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46637

I had the same questions, until I realized the title mentioned a '97. (For some reason when reading the body text of a post, I forget info given only in the title.) So, it should indeed be a 2.5, and the trans a phase-1 and therefore without external filter.

"Tricks" involve correct length adapters, flex joints, etc., to loosen and tighten the plugs, and pieces of rubber hose to spin the plugs in and out. The topic has been covered before, so a search should be successful. How many miles since the ATF was last changed? You might want to consider either a full replacement by flushing, or multiple changes (3 plus) via pan drainage, if the mileage is high enough. Since the '97 is a phase-1, and doesn't have the external spin-on filter, dropping the pan may be worthwhile.

I'm assuming that you're referring to the outside mirrors. I'm also assuming that you don't have the owner's manual, since the the fuse info is in that. Fuse #3 (counting from the upper left) in the under-dash panel is a 20A that protects the "remote controlled rear view mirrors", as well as the cigarette lighter socket. However, if you don't have the manual, perhaps you're not aware of the control operation. First, the mirrors only operate when the ignition is "ON" or in "ACC" position. If the mirrors are the heated type, you have to turn the knob to the "L" or "R" position before the "joystick" works; the center postion is inactive/"neutral". (The non-heated type has a switch below the knob that similarly has to be flipped left or right.)

Other than what Dave mentioned... If you just replaced the pads without servicing the rotors, the pad edges are probably running on rusted areas of the rotor. As long as any rust isn't too severe, the pads will conform/seat after a while and the noise will minimize.

Sure, injectors could be replaced with known good or repaired ones, but lets try to diagnose the problem before substituting parts and maybe confusing the issue. The scan tool you have should make that possible. If you take the readings as I described above, let us know what you get for STFT and LTFT with all injectors connected, and then when one at a time is disconnected. Make sure to note whether the percentages are negative or positive in each case. Once we have that info, it should be possible to determine what the next step is.

Vacuum hose info was sent via email. If the problem hasn't been resolved yet, it may be time to use the scan tool to read the fuel trims again. You can often find a leaky injector by checking balance. Let the engine warm, and get short term and long term trim readings. Then electrically disconnect one injector; the fuel trim readings should change, going more positive -- when they stabilize, make note of the readings. Reconnect the injector, then pull the connector on the next one. Again note the STFT and LTFT readings once they're stable. Do the same for the remaining two injectors. Compare the trim percentages for each injector when disconnected. If disconnecting one in particular caused the trims to go noticably less towards the positive, it's likely leaking. If two are leaky, there will still be a change with each, but it will be less noticable. If the change is about the same on all the injectors, the test isn't definitive; they could all be somewhat leaky (but that's unlikely), or fine and the problem is probably due to something else.

Agreed. I wonder if an inexperienced (at least on Subaru) mechanic misdiagnosed the symptoms, and "put the cart before the horse". As Nipper said, torque bind can damage the mount, but the mechanic might have assumed any possible binding symptoms were due to a bad mount.

Beside the HG issue, the 2.5 is prone to piston slap when cold, which some find annoying. Also, unless you know that the timing belt was replaced recently, be prepared to have that done -- you don't want to find out what can happen if it breaks.

See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf and http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf to identify the type -- it's probably the 5.3i . The connector and "ground probes" or "diagnostic terminals" are usually taped to the harness in the area above the accelerator or brake pedal. The correct pin number may vary with model year. On a '99 I'm fairly sure it was pin 6 of a black connector, but on a '00 it may not be. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79971 , especially post #20. EDIT: For '99 and some earlier models, black connector B82 is the right one, and pin 6 is correct. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80437