Dylan86GL10

Yep everything is off the front of the motor. I've tried driving two new crank seals in but neither one in seat to the motor. In fact the old one that came out is worn down on the face from the back of the crank sprocket spinning on it. If it's possbile, it really looks like a main bearing is coming out the front of the block.

ES82T Will Try to take a pic thanks

Not sure on much of this car. Got it from someone for $150, great shape aside from the rust. Oil was everywhere under the hood and it still ran so I assumed an oil pump/seal problem. I'll either junk it or try on find another block around here. Don't know if the A/c works, maybe just remove it altogether.

On that note, would it be possible for a front main bearing to slip into the front seal area? That appears to be what happened. The front main bearing is coming out through the front of the motor and forced the front crank seal out. Plausible? Thanks

Hello all, I'm trying to replace the front crank seal. Is it supposed to go in flush with the block? The old one wasn't and two new ones won't either. There apprears to be a metal strip in there about 1/2 the circumference that prevents the seal from going in all the way. Is this supposed to be there? Also is there anyway to remove the a/c condensor with loosing the freon? I've got the radiator out but still limited room. Thanks!

I hear that. The push for OEM location and parts is ridiculous. Give me a performance criteria like a sniffer test and let me meet it however I see fit. That would be better for the environment anyway. Lots of visually passing cars with OEM location etc... have horrible emissions.

Certainly, it was a full build after hydrolocking a rod into a banana. MLS headgasket gets rid of the infamous Neon troubles. JE pistons, Eagle rods, ARP studs, everything else.

That's kind of what I was hesitant about, bad motor, another project. My GF will kill me as my Turbo Neon has been about 95% finished for a long time.

I'll double check on that groove, if so I'll replace.

So if I fit an aftermarket cat, I can delete the upper one?

On that subject, what is on the inside of the stock downpipe? Mine looks like it has an expansion chamber/resonator on it. I see no reason for it to stay with a new downpipe, never had one on another turbo vehicle.

Given the ease of tear down to get to oil pump, I'm going to go with just resealing it and figuring out what other problems the motor may have first. Thanks guys!

Didn't someone talk of getting the compressor and compressor housing off a Ford 2.3 IHI Turbo and bolting onto the stock CHRA?

There's some low mileage japan motors on ebay for $650.

What's the typical life on a EA82T oil pump? I tore down and took the pump apart (oil is everywhere on this car) and it looks ok inside but I didn't mic anything out or check clearances. Wondering if the new seals will fly or I need to replace the whole thing (at least $100). Thanks!

Thanks to everyone for the great replies! I do have a 1st Gen DSM sidemount intercooler that is screaming to go on this once its running right. What's the flow rate on these injectors? I assume their is a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator somewhere?

Hello! I just joined the board and am new to the subaru scene. My previous experience has only been through a former room mates tribulations with a Loyale. I picked up a '86 GL-10 Wagon 4wd Turbo 178k for $150. The previous owner was moving and needed to get rid of it. They said it had a leaky oil pump and perhaps some other problems. This has got to be the grimmiest motor I have ever seen! Who knows how long this thing has been leaking oil. It has coated the hood with a layer of slime. Anyway I finally got the thing running, even with the MAF disconnected and it seems to be somewhat noisy and it probably has an exhaust leak pre and post turbo. Know I have started off by ordering: Timing belt kit off ebay Cam and crank seals local Oil Pump seal and mickey mouse off ebay New NGK spark plugs local Is there anything else obvious that I should get? I already have it tore down to the front block (damn those cam covers!). Its good I ordered the timing kit as one of the tensioners literally fell apart when I took it out. Now for the questions, I am used to the nooB sarcasm as I am a veteran of neons.org and the SEARCH function replies so take it easy on me, I am very new to this flat motor thing. What is the typical cold compression for a turbo motor? My neon got almost 200 psi (pre turbo install) and my old 2.2 charger turbo got around 130psi. I'd like to see what kind of shape this motor is in (no leak down equipment). How is the fan setup on these cars? I see I have 1 mechanical fan and 1 electric fan. Is the electric fan full duty or an a/c on thing? I bought a 10" electric fan from Advance that will hopefully fit between the rad and the crank pulley. Can I just wire a relay of the other fan circuit or install a thermostat switch? Does this motor have adjustable valves, and what kind? They could lead to the noise I heard during the brief run I did. I seemed to remember that my room mate's Loyale maybe had shims (was fairly expensive servicing). Now have dealt with replacing shims on my motorcycle so I think I could handle these if that is what I have. What is the highest boost these motors can take in a relatively stock form? I would assume the ECU or MAF would only read so high or that the injectors/fuel pressure would be a limiting factor. I have never dealt with a MAF before, only MAP. Thanks for putting up with me and I post some pics of the wagon tomorrow. Dylan