Dylan86GL10

...but didn't McGyver use an egg in episode #67?

What year and model did you ask for?

Equal length drive shafts stock. I had one, torque steer wasn't very bad at all.

Run heater line through turbo and back to firewall fitting if you don't have the head connections.

1985-1986 Dodge Omni GLHT used $700 88+ style intake and injectors $50 87+ intercooler $50 90 DSM BOV $35 Adj FPR $50 2.5" exhaust $100 Manual boost control $10 _______________________ Total $995 Good for high 12's Other guys face when 80's econobox blows him away, priceless.

I hear that 10 psi on the higher compression motor is no problem. I haven't fired mine up but I'm not very scared. I've run 15 psi on 9.8:1 on other motors before just got to make you have an intercooler and the fuel/spark is right. You'd probably want to swap on the turbo heads anyway otherwise oil supply and return will have to be custom.

Since the stock fuel pressure is fairly low, you could use a rising rate regulator to raise fuel pressure under boost. You'd probably want to install a turbo fuel pump as well.

I uploaded some vacuum and wiring diagrams to my website if anyone wants to grab one. Hope this helps someone. ps - 20 year old vacuum lines suck. i've broken nearly all of the them. http://dodgeneon.net/subaru/

We haven't had any problems with headgastket thickness on the 420A and Neon DOHC/SOHC motors. Though not a subaru, as long as the block and head are flat and have the appropriate finish, headgaskets are fine from double MLS gaskets (lower compression), to removing the middle layer for a super thin gasket (higher compression), there has not been a durability issue. This was on all out N/A and turbo'd motors. (Save for the comments from everyone on the "blown Neon headgasket" issue that was purely a quality problem with the early headgaskets alone)

search for miles fox subaru website in google

Thanks Gary, I was sure if the front seal where the pump axle to pulley meets. That seal/bearing has a circlip holding it in. But I could change the O-ring for sure under the resevoir. Thanks

I've read several threads on replacing the power steering pump seal. The Subaru dealership however says it doesn't exist and that I would have to by a whole pump. I asked them for the parts explosion but I still don't see it anywhere. Does anyone know the part number?

?!? Virginia do prey-tell. BTW we plan on moving to Charlottesville around May/June

You can also speed up closed loop operation (O2 feedback, better mileage) with a heated oxygen sensor. I used to make conversion kits for Turbo Dodges and it helped out quite a bit. Also on accuracy as there is a dedicated O2 ground.

Here's a page written by a friend for internal WG turbo's. I don't know how much room there is on the wastegate flapper on the VF7 but it should help. You can also cut the actuator rod in half, thread both sides, and use a coupling nut to adjust the base pressure of the flapper. Helps accomodate a weak/old spring. http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/wgateport.html

I always use synthetic (AMSOIL) unless its a motor that drips a lot of oil. Haven't had to use water wetter yet but would in an overheating motor or high performance that suffers from localized hot spots in the head.

You cut the actuator rod, thread it for a coupling nut, and then thread back together. Total length sets base pressure. Hey Vette, I'm in Newport News.

MegaSquirt isn't very hard to setup, plus if you check the forum, there's probably someone who has a subaru you could get your base settings from. http://megasquirt.info http://rs-autosport.com/ is a good place to start

The output of my LM1 goes to my turbo timer which displays A/F and yes the stock LM display is too small. But it does does datalog five channels. The XD-1 for $399 has a better display. Personally, I would get the LC-1 for $199 and add a display for a total price of $250-300.

Innovate is a bit cheaper than those - $349 on the LM1, and $199 on the LC1. I have the LM1 in my turbo neon. Getting the LC1 for the GL.

Looks like I might be getting a 80k EA82 w/ T heads from GrossGary. Would like to swap in a bigger motor, But this is my first Sub, I got it for $150. Just the adapter plate would cost the cost of the car and Gary seems to have a good deal on motor (new gaskets, water pump). Plus I got an ATX and I think that thing is marginal to start with? What is the most common failure?

Definately a main bearing. Need motor. Now comes the decision part out, jyard EA82, JDM EA82T, or EJ22. Your thoughts?

the edges are too clean to be broken, the ends of this peice are maching flat. I'll try prying on it tomorrow.

use the orange copper rtv. it'll basically burn but the residue is the seal. i've never used it on the y pipe but have on turbo wastegates for many other cars. looks like miles fox uses it too:

Here's the car, 1986 GL10 4wd turbo ATX: http://dodgeneon.net/images/subaru/P1070061.JPG http://dodgeneon.net/images/subaru/P1070063.JPG here's the front of the crankshaft, notice the band of metal on leftt side not present on the right: http://dodgeneon.net/images/subaru/P1070067.JPG http://dodgeneon.net/images/subaru/P1070068.JPG http://dodgeneon.net/images/subaru/P1070069.JPG http://dodgeneon.net/images/subaru/P1070070.JPG thanks