fbh

thought about that - unfortunately the p/s pump is there maybe if I shove the alt further over to the right-hand side, though I'd need new belts for it then...

the GL has them - don't work tho :s

hmm, is there any recommended length for the piping that's between the carb and the head? if I can have it long enough I could shove the spare in the back and have a play with the extra space...

I return from under the hood of my EA82. It seems that fabbing the carbs directly onto the heads (more or less) would be impossible, because the alternator's in the way. Instead, what if I was to saw open the manifold to the left and braze on a block to mount a second carb on?

so coolant enters the manifold on about the middle left, and gets distributed to the #1,3 and #2,4 cylinder banks via tubing in the intake manifold? Also, what's up with the little pipe squirting coolant into the bottom of the carb?

sweet. Question - if I went and built the brake vaccuum line into say the #1,3 head and the vaccuum lines fail, how strong will my brakes be? would I still be able to stop reasonably quickly?

Cool stuff. I just had a look under the hood. There are one or two things that work off the vaccuum lines - the weird blue thing I posted about a while back, and the brakes. Would it be fine to work the brakes off one cylinder bank only?

you mean running together perfectly as in throttle position etc? I thought of making linkage arms, so that the throttle cable comes on to one carb, and that carb in turn controls the other... otherwise, just two 1" or so high adaptor plates, with a pipe running between the two?

I'm definately gonna try it pick-a-part down the road's got a ton of EA82 subies, can grab a second carb from there, and I have a mate who might be able to fab me a whole new intake manifold for twin carbies. so it's going to sound better - how about power and fuel economy? ballpark figures? 90 horse / 28mpg roughly atm. Just a quick thought right now, if I don't want the wee pipes of coolant flowing all over the place, I could just take the chokes off?

... I fab a second carb onto my EA82? Basically, take off the intake manifold, and pretty much fab one hitachi carb onto each head... power gains? fuel economy changes? all-out stupid idea? :-\

It seems to have started doing it since I took off the carb to do the mod to open the 2nd barrel at about 2/3rd throttle, though I'm sure I put all the vaccuum lines back on correctly (except the one that powers the pump that used to open the 2nd barrel, I disconnected that one). EDIT: sometimes when I start it it idles very low and dies, so I pump the accelerator a few times and then start it again. That's when it idles at 1500rpm, and it keeps doing it until I drove around a bit..

Hi folks, The idle on my '89 GL (ea82, hitachi carb) is rather inconsistent. When I start it up it might idle 500RPM and nearly die (or in some cases, actually die), or it might idle at 800RPM, or even 1500RPM. When it's heated up, it either idles at about 800rpm like a good little soob or it sputters and (nearly) dies at 500rpm again. Is it supposed to act like this, or is there something I should go check for? Cheers folks

I think you have to take it to a garage or a mechanic, they have the proper means to do it.

hi folks, I'm planning on pulling the engine out of my '89 GL wagon (EA82) and giving it a bit of an overhaul. It's got around 120,000 miles on it and hasn't been overhauled. ever. I'm planning on pulling it out, doing the clutch, and pulling the engine apart and giving it a good cleanup, clean up the heads especially (grumble grumble intermittent TOD), replacing some gaskets (including the oil pump's mickey mouse gasket), and probably timing belts too. This will be the first time ever I pull an engine out of a car and do this sort of thing. Does anyone have any warnings or pieces of advice? would be much appreciated. also, rather important, does anyone know if the EA82 is an interference or non-interference engine?

I'm in no way an expert on this, but I read somewhere that milky coolant is when oil mixes with it, usually with a blown head gasket. Also, you can get quite far with clicking CV's, but if they fail they can fail in one of two ways: one is the car just loses power on that wheel (solvable by putting it in 4WD ), or two, which is unfortunately the more common one, seizing up altogether. Do the joints click when going in a straight line? if only around corners, then they might still have some life left in them.

ok, I'd say CV's as well then...

try shifting to a much different gear and pushing/releasing the pedal again, see if it still does it

does it do it more when you're turning and accelerate/decelerate? For me, it ended up being none other than timing. When I decelerated it backfired, which sounded like a muffled click coming from the left of the car...

choice - I'd still be careful though. take out the other front driveshaft as well and rip along in 4WD (RWD)

I'd say visual inspection on everything (brake line especially!), and replace the driveshaft and CV joints. The outer CV is only intended to be able to twist approx. 45 to 60 degrees off axis, twisting it further might damage the CV or bend the driveshaft :S

yeesh! sorry for my ignorance btw, I didn't realise that's an engine block what does it mean to "throw a rod"? (sorry for the thread hijack)

what the hell happened there?

well, generally if you open up the exhaust, you're sacrificing mid/low range power for high range power, pretty much as you do when you replace the intake (hint: there's a reason the intake's snout is a certain length... ) The easy stuff? I'd say if you were after more top end but less low end, go for the above - though me personally, I'd be more inclined towards performance chipping, giving it more fuel (i.e. higher volume injectors), and maybe (if you've got shedloads of cash), a supercharger Also personally, I wouldn't sell that soob. they're real nice cars

if it were a carby I could help - but maybe try larger volume injector(s), performance chip? or a complete swap for an EJ22?

well, my EA82 wagon manages to get to around 60mph in less than a hundred yards, so that's not too bad only modification is the hitachi carb one where you make the second barrel work a little more actively.