fbh

Edit: sorry, couldn't resist.... Anyway, ignore this hijack

Sure, that'll be $1.5 million please

why do I always have to fix you guys' typos?! just kidding by the way

welcome to the boards is it possible GFT might mean GF Turbo?

Light bar on roof! Light bar on roof!! :D Another six of those on top of the roof, man, you'd be a portable runway

May be a stupid question I know, but is it pinging?

Hit the switch on the top of your steering column so the park lights come on. Walk outside the car to make sure they're on. Hit the switch. I think the previous owner might not have been very patient in figuring that one out...

I'm jumping in a bit late here, I know, but this is a nice trick methinks. Works for inline-4's anyway. Tape two kebab sticks together and stick that down the spark plug hole. Turn the engine (by hand) until the stick "peaks"

Hmm, EA81 in an EA82 chassis... going to have some space to play with. Maybe shove a few big subwoofers under the bonnet and make it sound like one of those big gurgly offset-crank V8's

Would a carbed 89 GL (EA82) have a knock sensor?

heck. hmm, don't really see how that can happen - doubtful that it's a headgasket, because the oil system is at a much higher pressure than the coolant system (or so I'm told anyway) - do you feel like draining the oil again, and seeing if there's more water in there? Maybe check the freeze plugs too?

Maybe, but that won't get oil in your coolant - I'm afraid that's not the answer to your problem Is the car smoking at all?

Intake gasket is highly unlikely unfortunately - only things that run through the intake to my knowledge is coolant and fuel/air. Check out the freeze plugs though, I'm not sure about those.

Also, make sure all the coil's wires are still properly attached. Exactly the same things happened to a little Mitsubishi we had here, took two days to find this problem..

Guys, guys, quit acting like teenagers. oh, wait... Back on topic. Who knows exactly what'd happen if a turbo broke?

just a Q, what would happen if that thing broke?

lol the hill holder works like this: 1. you stop on an uphill slope 2. You push the brake and the clutch in At this point, the hill holder (which is technically just a "pressure hold" valve in the brake system) kicks in, and "locks" the brakes on. Now, you want to take off again, going up the hill. 3. You let go of the brake. At this stage, the hill holder is still holding the brakes on, because you've got the clutch pedal in. This holds the car still on the uphill slope, so you don't have to worry about growing a third leg or using the e-brake. 4. You rev it up and ease off the clutch. A properly adjusted hill holder should let go of the brakes as soon as the clutch starts engaging, or at least this is my understanding. When this happens, you'll hear a thump, and the car will start rolling backwards a bit, but by then you've got the clutch out enough and you're off anywho, back on topic: My hill holder works if there's even the slightest clue of a hill. Sometimes it works even if I don't notice a hill!

sup folks, I'm in the little corner of the world known as New Zealand. Does anyone know where I can find new shifter bushings? Also, does anyone know how to remove the linkage? it almost looks like dropping the gearbox is required. And on another note, what's the easiest way to apply a short-shifter mod to this model? ('89, EA82, D/R 5-spd P/T 4WD)

had my 89 GL for a couple months now, loving it:banana:

Hi folks, Drove around on the gravel a bit with my '89 GL (carbed, EA82, d/r 5spd pt 4WD) in 4WD LO, and when I shifted it into 4WD HI, it was as if I had the clutch to the floor. No power at all. Worked fine in FWD and 4WD LO, but not 4WD HI... I've used 4WD quite a bit on the gravel recently. Very interesting sensation when you're going straight ahead, not fast, and turn the wheel slightly, and finding yourself going sideways :headbang:Kinda like driving on ice.

Wait till it idles too low again, then crank the idle screw till it runs normally. It seems mine has this same issue - the reason mine idles very high sometimes is if you've pumped the gas a bit, or if you've been driving it hard, it always idles high - 1500rpm, sometimes 2000rpm, I think because of extra gas lying in the manifold.

I'd bet those mice are pretty dang stoned :banana: If you're going to weld it, take off the tank first, empty it completely and fill it up with water first - this'll stop it from going boom on ya

Should probably be - though if you take off the neck altogether and just bung a high-efficiency filter on there, you'll sacrifice a little mid-range power for some not-bad gains in the high end...

if you're going to be sucking through 6 feet of pipe, it needs to have around/about twice the cross-section of the old hose - it'll be able to suck reasonably easy then. Pipe length shouldn't be too much of a factor, just as long as it isn't too restrictive (bends, nooks, crannies - in other words, the inside of the pipe needs to be totally smooth, because ridges etc. cause interference, and Venturi's principle says that when you suck air around an impurity such as this, there's a small region of air around this impurity that doesn't move, basically constricting the airflow through the rest of the pipe. The faster you suck in air, the larger this region of air becomes. This is why the mouth of the stock air intake will be flared, not just a straight pipe - and is also why, if the stock intake has a grille on it, the mouth will be quite a lot larger than the pipe itself). The reason why the rubber pipe is the cross-section/length it is, is because in the engine's mid-range there's usually a little dip in power output - you'll find the resonant frequency of this pipe is about the same frequency as the engine sucks air at that mid-range RPM, so the air inside the pipe resonates at that RPM, providing an almost resistance-free travel of air through the pipe, though it dumbs down the top-end a bit due to the pipe needing to be reasonably thin. If you were to make this pipe big enough to not constrict the top-end, it'd only be about a foot long, and would void the whole purpose of the pipe anyway. So in the end, using a bigger pipe or removing the rubber one totally will rob you of a little mid-range but will provide you with some more top-end to compensate.

I kinda agree with you guys - take an automatic FWD car, put it in Drive, floor it. Now stop, put it in Reverse and floor it. You will notice a big difference Anyway, does anyone know the weight distribution of an '89 GL wagon?