fbh

no idea... might be a good idea to check if it hasn't all evaporated, lol...

my 89 GL wagon has some trouble starting after sitting there for a week. Pump the gas pedal right to the floor a good few times and try again - usually makes my soob start right up.

Alternatively, take the spark wire off the plug and hold the bare metal about 1 to 2mm from a bare earthed spot on the engine or the chassis (make sure not to touch) - saves you from having to take the spark plug out, but if you want to play it safe it'd be better taking it out.

dirty cheat: cut off the inner CV boots and pull the joint apart :D:D

Good luck noah, and if you get REALLY bloody lost, I'm in Auckland New Zealand, 6421-132-6089

dang, I thought my soob idling at 500rpm was normal ..?

I could, but where's the fun in that?

I wonder how many people are sitting there going "now THAT's a neat way to get NOS!" - until they realise that a cylinder ain't much use without a spark plug :D

any model/year the spark plug fits?

There are some real good threads on this board about swapping an EA81 or EA82 for an EJ22. click Search

... you took an old spark plug, drilled it out down the middle, attached a hose and a pressure gauge? would this be good enough for a compression meter?

*coughEJ22cough*

Here's how I went about replacing my CV joints and boots. Took about 1 hour per wheel. For this procedure you'll need new inner CV boots and grease (good idea to replace them anyway. Inner CV joints are fvrickin expensive), outer CV joints, boots and grease. They aren't expensive at all - about US$40 each. 1. Jack up the car, and remove the wheel. make sure the car is safely propped up, as you'll probably be climbing in under it. 2. Take off the crown nut and then loosen the wheel hub assembly. On my car there was a ball joint down the bottom holding it to the wishbone and two nuts and bolts up top holding it to the strut. Don't worry about the steering linkages or brake lines. 3. Cut off the inner and outer boots. Grasp the wheel hub assembly on the opposite side of the steering arm and pull. This will pull the inner CV trident from the joint itself, saving you from losing any gearbox oil or a diff falling apart. Make sure not to drop the trident though, and make sure the three sleeve-type bearings don't fall off!! 4. Put the trident down on a thick soft cloth so you can concentrate on the outer CV. Then, take a hammer and beat the stud that the crown nut came off out of the wheel hub (towards the inside of the car). The whole driveshaft should then clunk to the ground, CV joint attached. You should then have in front of you a driveshaft, inner CV trident on one end and the other CV on the other end. 5. Take a BFH, or any suitable heavy hammer. Hold the driveshaft so that the CV joint is hanging down. Beat it hard on the inner race so that it pops off the driveshaft. This may or may not screw up the joint, though generally if the boot was torn it's a good idea to replace the CV anyway. 6. Clean the inner CV joint thoroughly using petrol and a brush. Clean the inner CV trident that's still on the driveshaft thoroughly too, making sure none of the old grease is still in there. CV joint grease starts to go bad after about 10,000kms of driving so it's a good idea to replace it. 7. Slide on a new inner CV boot from the outer CV's side of the driveshaft and secure it with the strap that came with it. There should be a notch in the shaft. Slide on the new outer CV boot and secure it as well in its notch. 8. On the toothed end of the driveshaft where the outer CV joint goes, there may be a groove cut into the teeth running around the shaft like a ring. If this is the case, there will be a metal ring that came with the joint. Put this ring in that groove. 9. Take about a third of the grease that came with the joint. Put it into the back of the joint, through the hole the shaft goes in, and pack it into the bearings from the back. Take another third and pack it in from the front, and take the remainder of the grease and put it inside the outer CV boot. The grease isn't very runny, so don't worry. 10. Put the driveshaft into the CV joint and secure it. If you've got the ring-in-groove fixing method, simply tap it in with a hammer, making sure the ring stays in the groove. If you have a different method, you'll have to figure it out. 11. Pull the outer boot over the joint and secure it. Congratulations, you have now replaced an outer CV joint. 12. Next up, take about 1/4 of the inner CV joint grease and pack the trident with grease, making sure the small roller bearings under the main sleeve-type bearings are well lubricated. Then, put half of what remains into the inner CV joint housing and the other half into the inner CV boot. 13. Slide the trident into the inner joint. Don't go too fast or you might spray grease everywhere. 14. Pull the inner boot over the CV joint housing and secure with the strap provided. 15. Grasp the wheel hub assembly on the side opposite the steering linkage and pull. Insert the new CV joint's shaft through the hole in the hub. Put on the crown nut and tighten it mildly, but don't torque it yet. 16. Fasten the wheel hub assembly again. In my case, this will involve bolting the bottom ball joint and the top strut joint back on. 17. Check, Double check and Triple check that you have bolted them all on and torqued them real good. Any of these joints become loose and you might be killed. 18. Torque the crown nut. On my car it had to be torqued to 120 ft. lbs. but I'm not sure what yours would have to be. 19. Secure the crown nut - sometimes this'll be with a split pin, other times by hammering a brass ring on the crown nut into a groove on the CV axle. 20. Put the wheel back on and lower the car carefully. Now you can do the next wheel. After you're done, take the car for a wheel alignment. Correct me if I'm wrong in any of this

You might be having the situation I had where adjusting the timing did nothing. Take the car on the highway, and drive for 10, 15, 20 minutes in a low gear so the engine revs about 4k, 5k. Decoke it, in other words. If carbon buildups are sufficient in the cylinders, they can start glowing red or white hot inside the cylinders, igniting the gas just before the spark plug can.

If you're worried about making valves seat properly, smear some grinding paste on it, put it in the head, clamp it in a power drill and let 'er rip

Wheel bearings have races? Damn, I thought only CV joints had races. Oh well, you learn something new every day This BFH you speak of - here's the plan for the ultimate one - if you can find a smallish sledge hammer (3 to 5-pound), cut its handle off so it's about a foot long. THAT is a B.F.H. - I had a normal hammer with which I had to pound a driveshaft out of a CV joint with. Took 20 or 30 hits, had to hit with all I got. However, with the BFH constructed in this manner, I lifted it about 1ft. and let gravity swing it down onto the CV joint - a gentle "tink" and the joint was rolling around on the floor :D:D

Lol!! :lol:

rofl if it were a hot chick I'd be saying "wait, there are brakes in the picture? :D" again

Wait, there were brakes in the picture?

Yay I'm an uber EA82-noob and that switch has never caught me out. Then again, I never knew what it did, so I just always left it in the Off position

Well, my EA82 can hold its own against most hills at 60mph in 5th, revving about 3k, 3.5k..? Though, sometimes it's needed to downshift to 4th. Keep in mind though, are the two cars of equal weight? Some of the EA82's are in 1.7-ton monsters... Also, the gearing on the 4WD tranny is different to the 2WD one, so on average the 4WD one will rev higher than the 2WD.

For the low idle, check your timing. It might be too slow

wait, pressure plate? you might be on the wrong side of the engine mate you mean the main pulley?

LoL. The EA series aren't exactly the pinnacle of power I think, I have a 1500cc motor in my Nissan Sunny that makes more power and torque than my EA82 in the GL - but, that said, not very long ago, 3500cc 6-cylinders used to make even less than that. The EA82 does about 90hp, my Nissan does about 100 - but still, the EA82 is 15 years older than the Nissan, so there's not really much of a comparison there. Don't get me wrong, I like my EA82 especially the sound.

Ah, bloody aussies nah, just kidding. I'm not really a Kiwi anyway, I just live here. South African, born and bred. well, the rumors I heard were that they assemble some cars here, but I don't know how true that is, because Subarus are assembled in Subaru factories. I don't know of any Subie factories in this corner of the world... maybe the odd Chevron kit car, but hey